ball python setup
- Thread starter crayfishguy
- Start date
I'd like to start off by saying that you have a set-up indicative of a lot of Pet Store info. However, I used to breed Balls and Boas and had 19 Herps at one point with 4 breeding pairs.
I would have recommend an Under the tank heater pad. And get rid of the Aspen. Too many times I have had a ball dropped off to me that wasn't eating only to find a piece of aspen lodged in their mouth or upper throat. The aspen getting in the mouth doesn't have to happen when their eating but Over time I am sure you will see your ball "yawn" or completely unhinge his jaw and reset it. During this process Aspen can and will enter his mouth in your Current setup. Aspen lodged can cause upper respiratory infection. In addition the smell of Aspen can easily mask Snake Urea, Hindering your ability to see that the aspen has been wet. Urea and Aspen don't get along very well. Most times the aspen underneath grows mold and fungus, Also leading to Respiratory Disease.
A lot of people tend to go overboard with balls in regard to Basking lights. Many use them to actually heat the entire enclosure. However I must remind you that Balls are nocturnal animals and very rarely if at all will you find them in the daytime out basking in the wild. If you want to replicate their Natural lifestyle while maintaining the warm dry climate they need to thrive in the wild I would dump the lamp and get a Heat Emitter.
His hide should definitely have a top. Your hide is a good size as he fits snugly inside of it. But their should be a lid of some sort. Again, Balls tend to Burrow into an abandoned home of a rodent they have recently consumed. These homes have roofs.
I also avoided Heat Rocks like they were the plague. Heat Rocks have had a history of malfunctioning, and burning if not killing animals.
Lastly make sure he can submerge his entire body when he wants in the bowl you have. I couldn't tell from the pic if he could adequately fit in the bowl. If you notice he doesn't soak on his own you may be inclined to soak him in a bucket once a week or so for 15 minutes. It helps at shedding time.
Some things I was always a big fan of.
Great Article
http://www.anapsid.org/ball.html
ESU Reptile Rock Dens
Heat Emitter
Reptile Carpet
Under Tank Heater.
Mike
I would have recommend an Under the tank heater pad. And get rid of the Aspen. Too many times I have had a ball dropped off to me that wasn't eating only to find a piece of aspen lodged in their mouth or upper throat. The aspen getting in the mouth doesn't have to happen when their eating but Over time I am sure you will see your ball "yawn" or completely unhinge his jaw and reset it. During this process Aspen can and will enter his mouth in your Current setup. Aspen lodged can cause upper respiratory infection. In addition the smell of Aspen can easily mask Snake Urea, Hindering your ability to see that the aspen has been wet. Urea and Aspen don't get along very well. Most times the aspen underneath grows mold and fungus, Also leading to Respiratory Disease.
A lot of people tend to go overboard with balls in regard to Basking lights. Many use them to actually heat the entire enclosure. However I must remind you that Balls are nocturnal animals and very rarely if at all will you find them in the daytime out basking in the wild. If you want to replicate their Natural lifestyle while maintaining the warm dry climate they need to thrive in the wild I would dump the lamp and get a Heat Emitter.
His hide should definitely have a top. Your hide is a good size as he fits snugly inside of it. But their should be a lid of some sort. Again, Balls tend to Burrow into an abandoned home of a rodent they have recently consumed. These homes have roofs.
I also avoided Heat Rocks like they were the plague. Heat Rocks have had a history of malfunctioning, and burning if not killing animals.
Lastly make sure he can submerge his entire body when he wants in the bowl you have. I couldn't tell from the pic if he could adequately fit in the bowl. If you notice he doesn't soak on his own you may be inclined to soak him in a bucket once a week or so for 15 minutes. It helps at shedding time.
Some things I was always a big fan of.
Great Article
http://www.anapsid.org/ball.html
ESU Reptile Rock Dens
Heat Emitter
Reptile Carpet
Under Tank Heater.
Mike
1) those "reptile carpets" are bacteria heaven
2) snake's bodies are designed to absorb heat from above, where blood flow carries it to the rest of the body. a heat source on the underside of the tank is less effective.
i love how you speak of "natural" yet your heating method is the opposite.
in any case, he will be moved to the 20 gallon soon, which will allow for more hides.
2) snake's bodies are designed to absorb heat from above, where blood flow carries it to the rest of the body. a heat source on the underside of the tank is less effective.
i love how you speak of "natural" yet your heating method is the opposite.
in any case, he will be moved to the 20 gallon soon, which will allow for more hides.
A. gigas;4749499; said:
The heat source on the underside of the tank is their to support the ambient temperature inside of the tank. Warming the glass from underneath will help to eliminate the fact that the entire tank acts as a large Heat Sink.
Regarding the lighting. Did you see where I said to replace the light with a Heat Emitter, They don't put off light. Just UV Heat. Again raising the air temperature inside of the tank.
As for the Carpet, the reason I support them is because as soon as their soiled you should be able to smell it when you change the Water daily. Pulling the carpet and sliding a clean piece in shouldn't take you more then a few minutes. A Quick rinse in Scalding Hot water and let air dry and the original carpet is good as new.
Many breeders will use Paper towels. Old Brown Paper Grocery Bags And even old Bath Towels in the bottom of their enclosures. As long as you know the odor of Urea you can normally catch it the day it happens. Which ELIMINATES the Bacteria Haven you mention. My point with the Aspen is Two fold. 1 Aspen has been known to cause Respiratory infection in Herps for YEARS. RD Kills Herps. And 2 Aspen covers the smell of Urea. Hence limiting your ability to know when the underlying aspen has been soiled.
Just My 2c. I only bred Balls for 10 years. What do I know?
Mike
crayfishguy;4749586; said:
20 is great for Hatchlings to 2'. I'd look for a 40 breeder of a 55 after that... Good luck...
Mike
Mike is correct, along with other posters and I would go with their advice. My tiger pastel is a burrower and he'd rather burrow under newspapers than going into his hide. Balls aren't bathers either because they are only active at night, so I use a heat mat and he spends most of his day resting on it. Heat rises therefore heat mat is more efficient than heat lamp in heating an enclosure.
When I see OP's pics I get a sense that it didn't like the substrate otherwise it would bury itself underneath it already. Balls are hiders too so when it is out and about with the light on, it's not happy where it is. The branch is useless for your ball other than keeping it away from the substrate.
My tiger pastel,
When I see OP's pics I get a sense that it didn't like the substrate otherwise it would bury itself underneath it already. Balls are hiders too so when it is out and about with the light on, it's not happy where it is. The branch is useless for your ball other than keeping it away from the substrate.
My tiger pastel,
