Bearded dragon

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
UVB!
I run a big colony, and I only use Mega-rays www.reptileuv.com I've tested most of the brands available with a solarmeter (available from same website). Mega-rays scored best, then Rep-pro, then Power-Sun.
I also like a basking spot of ~120-130 F, but the key is to also have enough room to have it in the low 80's at the other end.
I spray them 3 times a day any make sure they all get soaked. The heat from the bulb dries everything back out in about 1/2 hour.
Make sure that insects are well-gutloaded, and provide supplementation with Calcium, but don't overdo the vitamins and D3.

You should also take graffix's advice and get an appt. with a qualified vet.
Bring a fresh stool sample!

Good luck
 
ChineseChildren;475798; said:
I thought you caould get the vitamin d3 through calcium supplements, no? and i have a fixture in the mail since thats what i suspected. right now hes/ shes in a 20 high with an aquarium hood and an undertank heater
and ive only tried jurassidiet and nature zone prepared foods.
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your tank isnt heated enough

if an undertank heat pad is all you got he obviously too cold to have any appitite.
 
they r not hard to take care of.you can feed them lettuce,just not iceburg lettuce.mine eats crickets and mice and veggies.he has heat rocks,and 2 basking lamps.he has all of this because he shares his cage with three big iguanas.
 
thebestincali2000;477855; said:
they r not hard to take care of.you can feed them lettuce,just not iceburg lettuce.mine eats crickets and mice and veggies.he has heat rocks,and 2 basking lamps.he has all of this because he shares his cage with three big iguanas.
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There's an accident waiting to happen.
 
DeLgAdO;478244; said:
yep


and NO lettuce!

all lettuce has little nutritional value
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And gives them the runs....

Chad
 
a couple of things...

1. to <thebestincali2000> get rid of the heat rocks, they are one of the most dangerous of all things you could have in the tank, they are known for burning and killing reptiles of all sorts.

2a. to <thebestincali2000> get the beardie and the iguanas in separate cages. i can guarantee you that unless you have an entire room turned into a habitat, that it is too small for all of them. you are going to wind up with agression issues which will likely result in injury or death for your animals, or at the very least, malnourishment from the others stealing his food.

2b. floor space is important for your beardie. a 4' x 2' enclosure is the minimum size that you should be keeping a single bearded dragon in. they should generally not be housed together either, again, agression issues, malnourishment, etc.

3. the ideal temperatures for the tank are around the middle 80s on the cool side, and 110 under a basking/UVB light. you don't need to use ceramic bulbs or infrared night lights at night to keep the tank warm unless temperature drops into the low 60s. during the day you can use incandescent bulbs to heat the tank in the cooler areas and specialty bulbs for the basking area. make sure that they can get within 8-10 inches of the basking bulb.

4. don't feed mealworms, they contain a chiten and fat, and very little protein. instead feed superworms, they basically look the same, but are a little bigger, have less chiten and fat and more protein. the general rule of thumb for feeding live insects is to keep the feeder length less than the space between your beardie's eyes. some good feeders tend to be crickets, superworms, hornworms (not wild), silkworms, and roaches. also, don't leave any of the feeders loose in the beardie tank at night, they can chew on your beardie and cause problems.

5. lettuce is no good. dark green leafy vegetables are good, as well as most fruits. it is important to keep a variety of things in your beardie's diet to promote good health. For example, you could live on burger king for your entire life, but you are more likely to live a shorter life, as well as get bored of your food.

6. DO NOT FEED FIREFLYS!!! THEY WILL KILL YOUR DRAGON!

7. don't keep your dragon on a particulate substrate (sand, crushed walnut shells, etc) the dragon can eat them, get impacted and die. they also tend to significantly more difficult to keep clean, and remove waste, tending to harbor bacteria and disease. a better substrate would be something like reptile carpet or tile.

try visiting the following sites for some more good information:

A great forum for beardies: http://www.beardeddragon.org/bjive/
Dietary information: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html
 
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