Best bio media? (bio balls-bio max)

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I don't you guys understand how a wet/dry works if you are worried about contact time and large waste loads. The efficiency of wet/dry filtration is much greater than that of any other save, perhaps, fluidized bed filtration (which comes with a whole host of issues). Given the same amount of media space, a wet/dry will easily outperform any typical submerged application, and that applies to degassing, oxygenation, as well as nitrification.

I think the confusion when one sees both bioballs and ceramics in use applies to the type of filtration in use. Many Europeans use sump filters that actualy completely submerge all the media. In that case, rings, gravel, sponges, and a host of media is used (and bioballs would be a less than ideal choice in such a case). Over here in the USA, sump filtration seems to equate to wet/dry filtration only, so bioballs are usually the choice.

By the way, I'm one of "those guys" with a 1000 gallon tank!
 
Nic;2000248;2000248 said:
eheim sunstrate pro is really good but what did 20L cost???


http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/474/Bio-Glass-Filter-Media

http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/473/Siporax

http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/3089/Matala-Filtration-Media

http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/3308/Sand-Filters-by-Jacuzzi

http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/2639/Bio-Barrels

http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/2628/Biofilm-Carrier-Elements


lots of options out there... i personally will be using the first 3 in my new sump... along with matrix, substrate pro and bio max... some good pressurized sand filters might be a good option, you can find them on ebay for cheap... nylon scrubbies are great in wet dry set ups.... lots of surface area for cheap...
Ran me ~$250.
 
cchhcc;1999044; said:
You need to first design the filter, THEN choose the biomedia...

I didn't read through the whole thread to see if anyone caught this little 'oops', but it will help to know what kind of media you are going to use so that you can plan on how much space it is going to need.
 
koop171;1999032; said:
Has anyone ever worked out what sq.ft is in a pot scrubby?

Actually, I did...and they don't measure up to what we have been told. I don't remember the numbers but they are still pretty good though. I think it was about 2/3 of what was reported.
 
cchhcc;2000301; said:
Keep in mind that more surface area isn't always relevant. Your bacteria colony will exist in direct correlation to your waste load. You cannot have more bacteria that can be fed by your waste load.

Very true...but,

cchhcc;2000301; said:
So, massive amounts of bio-media with massive amounts of surface area just end up being thinly colonized. Most people overkill this thing to death.

the thing to keep in mind is that the benefit of a thinly colonized massive surface area is the ability for rapid population growth. In a time of need, a thin colony can grow to meet a higher bio-load. A thick colony at capacity can only grow on top of other bacteria.

It will never hurt to have too much media but having just the right amount can be a problem later. Better safe than sorry :(

cchhcc;2000301; said:
As for me, I use bio-balls in my wet/dry filters and Eheim Sub-Pro in canisters. The Sub-Pro is consistently sized and much easier to rinse (without losing it down the drain!) than Matrix and a few others.

Another helpful hint is that "pored" media needs excellent mechanical filtration. If you find that you need to rinse the media, you should consider ways that you can improve the mecanical filtration. When pored media gets a coating of growth over it, generally that is a good indication that the pores are clogged and it is time to replace the media. The pores can be cleaned out after rinsing by soaking in hydrogen peroxide. The media will need to be cycled again so only do this for parts of the media at any given time.
 
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