Think some people are going a bit off topic here, it has been 25 degrees all day here matey, like i said when i get a bit time i will draw you up a pic and see what ya think, i allready have a few ideas for you 
Big favour
- Thread starter Eric A
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Fair enough fellas.
Yeah i'm a bit of a cock when I take things a bit seriously. Thats how I got myself banned on another few forums.
Even tho I haven't done much of a DIY, I know most of you guys have. Even tho I have next to no experience, I am hoping you guys can help and guide me, so then I don't stuff up.
Eric
Yeah i'm a bit of a cock when I take things a bit seriously. Thats how I got myself banned on another few forums.
Even tho I haven't done much of a DIY, I know most of you guys have. Even tho I have next to no experience, I am hoping you guys can help and guide me, so then I don't stuff up.
Eric
I wouldn't recommend doing to corners are 45's. There are a few general build styles we use here at MFK based on my experience. There is the general all plywood design; this design is pretty basic and straight forward taking plywood sheets and screwing them together on 90's. If you take a look at my test thread, it is a prime example of that build style. There is also a style where people have taken the base plywood tank a step further adding structural support to the outside of the enclosure such as 2x4 framing. People also often use a different style of windows frame in this build mainly due to immense size of the tanks that use this build style, the window frame is normally built using lengths of solid wood (1x2, 2x4, etc.) much the same as you would frame a window for a house. And lastly, gaining popularity lately is the build with an internal frame that the plywood is attached to. The framing is done on all the edges to provide a more solid anchor theoretically. Design 1 and 3 are both the least expensive to build with 3 being theoretically slightly stronger than 1. Design 2 is built with much larger enclosures in mind 300+. People choose this design to reinforce the enclosure and often times find themselves having reinforce the flooring where the aquarium is located. I would suggest that is you are going for the large size you stated in the beginning that you go with style 2 and maybe add concepts of style 3 if you like. Cvermuelen has a good thread to read with elements of style 3 on a 600. TFG has a thread with a lot of style 2 structural building in it. I'd look over builds similar to those and then put your own ideas together and post them then take the feedback on those designs, rework them and then finally build them. Hope this helps you with a starting point.
It depends on the thickness of the plywood you are using, but yes looking at it I see that it's similar in style to the number 2 example I gave.
You need to realize you are putting roughly 800-1000 gallons in an enclosure. i didn't bother to do exact calcs but it's just a guestimate. Anyway, that's 6500-8000+ lbs of just water not including a wet dry. Overbuilding doesn't make the cost go a lot higher. 2x4's are cheap. Wood is generally cheap. With that much water you are going to possibly need to reinforce your floor joists, you'll need a hefty stand that can distribute the weight well. It's not the ovrbuilding of monsters that costs money.. it's the fact that things cost money. Your glass along is going to cost a fortune for the size parameters you have posted. Sealing the tank will not be cheap, however some methods are cheaper than others. Filtration, pipes, elbows, t's, etc all cost money. Pumps large enough to handle the massive water turnover cost money. I think the first thing to discuss rather than how to build it is how much do you have to invest. Then ask a few of the people here who have built tanks how much it cost them in the end... the overbuilding isn't the skyrocketing factor.
You need to realize you are putting roughly 800-1000 gallons in an enclosure. i didn't bother to do exact calcs but it's just a guestimate. Anyway, that's 6500-8000+ lbs of just water not including a wet dry. Overbuilding doesn't make the cost go a lot higher. 2x4's are cheap. Wood is generally cheap. With that much water you are going to possibly need to reinforce your floor joists, you'll need a hefty stand that can distribute the weight well. It's not the ovrbuilding of monsters that costs money.. it's the fact that things cost money. Your glass along is going to cost a fortune for the size parameters you have posted. Sealing the tank will not be cheap, however some methods are cheaper than others. Filtration, pipes, elbows, t's, etc all cost money. Pumps large enough to handle the massive water turnover cost money. I think the first thing to discuss rather than how to build it is how much do you have to invest. Then ask a few of the people here who have built tanks how much it cost them in the end... the overbuilding isn't the skyrocketing factor.
Okay, when you look at the birds eye veiw, and you can see that the walls have 3 layers, each is 25mm, or 1". So the wood supporting is 4"x1" and 6"x1" and on the corner bits, its just a 4"x4" with a 3" x 3" pice cut out of it to make an L shape.
Im 
and btw thats not a hard thing to do when it comes to me 
Basicly i would just build a huge pond outa 2x4's line it with pond liner then build a box beside it (built onto it) and place your sump on this box, ive seen a couple made like this here on MFK and they look awsome and seem to work well too, sorry eric i never got round to doing them pics for ya, ive been too busy enjoying the sun and the fosters
and btw thats not a hard thing to do when it comes to me Basicly i would just build a huge pond outa 2x4's line it with pond liner then build a box beside it (built onto it) and place your sump on this box, ive seen a couple made like this here on MFK and they look awsome and seem to work well too, sorry eric i never got round to doing them pics for ya, ive been too busy enjoying the sun and the fosters
