Brown algae

[kzimmerman]

So I have a 55g that houses a Congo puffer. The tank has been plagued with algae problems from the start, but the green water has started to subside at least. What the real problem is this brown, stringy algae. It likes to grow in high current areas of the tank. The water parameters seem pretty good, ammonia 0 nitrate 10ppm phosphate.25 pH is 7.2.
Any suggestions? Frankly, I’ve very rarely ever had algae issues before. I have cut back on the time the lights are on, but I do have some live plants in the tank. There’s also a pathos with its algae covered roots that’s been there for enough time that it should be established.

 

[Deadeye]

Getting the phosphates down a bit could help.
Often getting more plants helps.
Dosing seachem flourish-excel also helps to control algae.

 

[kzimmerman]

I have cryptocorn, 3 Amazon swords, an ocelot sword, and 2 nana. Can’t remember the name of the nana, much to my shame. There’s not much else that I can add because Congo puffers need to be able to bury themselves. Shouldn’t the pothos be taking the phosphates out?

 

[Rocksor]

I have cryptocorn, 3 Amazon swords, an ocelot sword, and 2 nana. Can’t remember the name of the nana, much to my shame. There’s not much else that I can add because Congo puffers need to be able to bury themselves. Shouldn’t the pothos be taking the phosphates out?

No it won't. I've had pothos for years, and it hasn't stopped the algae from growing. You simply don't have even plants to consume the amount of nutrients (and light) in the aquarium to prevent the algae growth. I wouldn't waste your money on flourish-excel to fix the problem. You have to prevent the problem of excess nutrients (generally tied to feeding and light) or have an algae competitor.

If you never had this problem before, look at what you did different (feeding, lighting, etc.). Even feeding a different type of food to the puffer and how it eats (like crunching vs swallowing) is enough to introduce unwanted nutrients to the water column.

 

[duanes]

If there's room adding "lots" of terrestrial or semi-terrestrial plants to the surface, these could use up any excess nutrients the algae need.

I prefer the semi-aquatics like Arium that live as matts on the surface.
But Pothos is the most common, and available these days., although I have found it effective , only if as a bush, it surpasses the size of the tank
Also floaters that quickly spread like Salvinia suck up nutrients like sponge.

 

[duanes]

Just curious how big is the puffer?
And do you feed a lot of high protein foods, in the form of clams, shrimp, snails, or other oily foods?
In such a case, using a foam fractionator (protein skimmer) might help, especially if your water change schedule is not what many aquarists might consider, excessive, but someone like me considers par for the course.
If it were me, I'd be doing every other day 40% water changes, on that size tank.

 

[kzimmerman]

He is about 3 inches long and eats frozen blood worms. It’s a very light bioload, and I shouldn’t have a lot of nutrients build up as it doesn’t get overfed. I do weekly water changes of 30-40%.
there is another possible source, and that could be my tap water. I’ll test it to see. It contains.25ppm ammonia.

 

[Deadeye]

You can always try bumping water changes up to compensate.
I’m pretty sure my water has high phosphates in it, which makes algae a pain.

 

[Rocksor]

He is about 3 inches long and eats frozen blood worms. It’s a very light bioload, and I shouldn’t have a lot of nutrients build up as it doesn’t get overfed. I do weekly water changes of 30-40%.
there is another possible source, and that could be my tap water. I’ll test it to see. It contains.25ppm ammonia.

frozen blood worms and any frozen items adds quite a bit of nutrients to the water if not eaten instantaneously.

How often are you feeding? and how much? Until the puffer has a rounded belly?

 

[kzimmerman]

2 times a day, until his belly fills out. It’s about a cube worth. He’s a bit of a slow eater, but he has it all down in about 10-15 minutes.