building a 1000 gal concrete block monster tank
- Thread starter wizzin
- Start date
BOTR;658648; said:
Interesting. I don't know if it was you or not, but I read a DIY thread somewhere where they stated the same thing. I'm going to call sanitred and talk to them about it. I may just seal the wood with sanitred and use silicone to make the seal between the glass and wood frame.
I think it's page 11 of this thread that has some hand sketches. One shows a section through the glass wall.
This is the first time I've spoken about that issue. Sani-tread stated the benifit of the LRB/TAV bonding with the prior coats. I dont think it really matters. I will be using silicon for all of my future tank builds.
That being said. The Perma/LRB/Perma combo has to be nearly invinceable. This stuff really is tough, and hard. And I highly reccomend it for the actual sealing of the tank walls.
Chris
That being said. The Perma/LRB/Perma combo has to be nearly invinceable. This stuff really is tough, and hard. And I highly reccomend it for the actual sealing of the tank walls.
Chris
They recomend on a Plexiglass pannel, that the plexi be primed with a 2-part epoxy type primer first...
Was this the case on your leaks?
Was this the case on your leaks?
BOTR;658881; said:
I called them a little while ago. Yes, they do recommend the primer. I didn't know that either and didn't buy it. I'm going too, as I decided to go 4 coats instead of 3 too, and I need another gallon. One thing that has caused leaks is that people don't "frame" in the glass. It's just pressure adheared to the inside of the front panels of the tank. The sanitred isn't wrapped around the glass/acrylic. The weak point is the side pressure. With no LRB wrapping around the side of the glass, the water pressure at the side of the glass between the glass and the sanitred causes the failure. They said the cause of failure has been improper application, not failure of product, which I would have to agree with (no offense).
I've seen a lot of applications where the inside of the glass opening is slathered with silicone or sanitred and the glass is pushed into that bed. That is not a good seal, no matter what product you're using. The sealant needs to wrap the glass like my sketch on page 11.
Just FYI. I actualy did wrap the glass completely on all sides. My reasoning was to prevent injury to a startled aro that my freak out when the lights snap on. I was concerned that even the polished edge may cause harm and wanted a cushion against that.
Chris
Chris
BOTR;658935; said:
See image. Which connection did you have? NOTE: in "B" the plywood and glass should almost be in line, not as much of a ridge like in my sketch. From my conversations with sanitred, connection "A" shows the failure point. There's less chance of failure if the joint is a crevase as opposed to a ridge. The sealant is constrained by the front frame, side frame and glass in "B", where it's only constrained by the frame and glass in "A".
why dont you build two metal plat that look like this _|the glass your useing|_ the seal is in the middle
