building a 1000 gal concrete block monster tank
- Thread starter wizzin
- Start date
nuther little update. I'm getting ready to mix the concrete to fill the cores accross the bottom so I figured I better take pics of the assembly before it gets sealed forever. To explain the "BABABA" on the second pic, the "A" bolts are to bolt the two pieces of wood together. The "B" bolts are to anchor the entire wood assembly to the concrete cores. I discovered that it's quite impossible to cleanly bend a 1/2" threaded stainless steel rod 
. So the solution was to add a washer and bolt (they're stainless steel) to the bottom of every other bolt, so that when the concrete is cured, those bolts can be tightened down, essentially clamping the entire assembly down to the concrete. The first pic is just what the assembly will look like in place. The spaceing is 7" and 9" based on the blocks below.
. So the solution was to add a washer and bolt (they're stainless steel) to the bottom of every other bolt, so that when the concrete is cured, those bolts can be tightened down, essentially clamping the entire assembly down to the concrete. The first pic is just what the assembly will look like in place. The spaceing is 7" and 9" based on the blocks below.
johnptc;671086; said:
YES AND NO
I'm liquid nailing the pieces of lumber together. The side that's exposed to water and the bottom concrete will be sealed with sanitred. I'm going sanitred all the way here remember. I'm not going to mix materials. Sanitred gave me direction on this, and since following their instructions is the only way I get the warranty, that's what I'm doing. That's the benefit of sanitred IMO. You don't need 50 different sealing materials. Sanitred sticks to itself even when cured better than any other material. I tested this. I'd be worried about using epoxy then sanitred over it. You guys worry about this stuff way more than I do
The wood that's outside the tank will be primed and painted.Also, look at this page for sanitred. This is why I decided to nix using silicone at all.
http://www.sanitred.com/jointchart1.htm
http://www.sanitred.com/jointchart1.htm
but will the sanitred b e soft enough to create a good seal with the glass????? that would be all I would be worried about
'Been following this thread since you started it, and it looks like an exciting project. Good to see so many people contributing ideas, it's what forums should be for! I like the idea of your glass sitting in a wooden frame - just like a traditional window frame, and they've worked for hundreds of years! It really does look bigger than I thought it was going to be as well - looking forward to the finished article - keep up the good work.
rottbo;671205; said:
So they say. It will be. When cured (2 hours vs 7) it's actually a lot like silicone. Just 10x stronger. I've played with it a little bit, and I love it. It doesn't stink like silicone. When it cures it's like super rubber. You can stretch it a lot more than silicone before it breaks. I stabbed it with a knife and it took A LOT of force to puncture it even with a sharp knife. Crazy stuff!!!
Thanks...
