Can anyone compare the FX5 to the eheim 2262?
- Thread starter tcarswell
- Start date
its hard to put a price on quality though. they might be expensive but thats why they are dependable. most times you get what you pay for.
Exactly. There would be no doubt in my mind that the quality would be far better than Fluval. There is a point though, when the filters will be SO expensive, very few will buy them.
You could say I was exaggerating just a tid bit. Eheims are VERY dependable.
Oh without a doubt rock solid epitome of german engineering and quality they set a benchmark in aquarium filters that is yet to be surpassed. I absolutely love my classics and the jury on the 2262 is out until I get my big tank and watch it work. ( I bought a 55" 120hz 1080p TV for the living room lol) But im setting aside 500 a month to get something very large and very acrylic.The filtration will be the 2 FX5's I got for 200 each , Shipped! and the 2262 if its over 300 gallons it will have a 55 gallon sump as well.Jgray152;3096239; said:
I Would love to have a 2262, except I would probably find a way to make it flow more. 
I wanted to post this link to Degasification. FRom research, degasification can be performed through many different methods. Vapor Cavitation is part of the reduced pressure method. Heating is another method. There are other methods as well.
When vapor cavitation occurs, degasification occurs as well as the product of the process.
There are many website that explain this. I found one page, can't find it now, that explained degasification during vapor cavitation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Degasification
I don't have to say "Vapor Cavitation" because "Cavitation" is the same. Cavitation can be caused by a few things but one main cause is from a restriction in flow, mostly due to the intake side being restricted.
Cavitation Write Ups
http://www.powerqualityanddrives.com/pump_cavitation/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation
There are times when I am wrong, but I do a lot of research.
When the filtration media clogs, there is a restriction in flow on the suction side of the impeller which is the side that the "eye" of the impeller is on and is the side to which will produce a low enough pressure to produce degasification.
I have a vacuum pressure gauge, maybe soon, I will rig it up in the Fx5 and test to see how much negitive pressure the pump can produce.
I will probably start at connecting it to the intake line and plugging up the intake. Actually, this I may be able to do tonight. This may not be as accurate, but it will give me a general idea. After this, I can move forward in my testing for more accurate results.
Where I REALLY need to test for pressure differences is AT the EYE of the impeller since this is where the most reduced pressure is. Even if I have say 2 PSI drop in the canister after shutting off the intake, there might be a 20 PSI drop at the EYE of the impeller. Just throwing numbers out there so the difference between the two could be way off, but that is my theory.
I wanted to post this link to Degasification. FRom research, degasification can be performed through many different methods. Vapor Cavitation is part of the reduced pressure method. Heating is another method. There are other methods as well.
When vapor cavitation occurs, degasification occurs as well as the product of the process.
There are many website that explain this. I found one page, can't find it now, that explained degasification during vapor cavitation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Degasification
From website linked said:
I don't have to say "Vapor Cavitation" because "Cavitation" is the same. Cavitation can be caused by a few things but one main cause is from a restriction in flow, mostly due to the intake side being restricted.
Cavitation Write Ups
http://www.powerqualityanddrives.com/pump_cavitation/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation
There are times when I am wrong, but I do a lot of research.
When the filtration media clogs, there is a restriction in flow on the suction side of the impeller which is the side that the "eye" of the impeller is on and is the side to which will produce a low enough pressure to produce degasification.
How slight are you referring too? Because you still need to reduce the pressure enough to its vapor point. If you need to reduce the pressure by -15psi to release oxygen at 50*F, than to perform degasification, you still need -15 PSI and not a "slight" reduction in pressure.
I have a vacuum pressure gauge, maybe soon, I will rig it up in the Fx5 and test to see how much negitive pressure the pump can produce.
I will probably start at connecting it to the intake line and plugging up the intake. Actually, this I may be able to do tonight. This may not be as accurate, but it will give me a general idea. After this, I can move forward in my testing for more accurate results.
Where I REALLY need to test for pressure differences is AT the EYE of the impeller since this is where the most reduced pressure is. Even if I have say 2 PSI drop in the canister after shutting off the intake, there might be a 20 PSI drop at the EYE of the impeller. Just throwing numbers out there so the difference between the two could be way off, but that is my theory.
UPDATE
I just did a vacuum test using an Engine Vacuum Gauge which measures Hg Inches or Cm. I hooked it up to the intake tube via my Nitrate Filter hookup.
The interesting thing, was that, after hooking up the gauge, I opened the ball valve on the intake tubing which allows vacuum to the gauge, and before restricting the flow on the suction side, the gauge read vacuum! Its not accurate enough to tell me how much at that point but the gauge moved a good amount leading me to believe that there is a very slight restriction in intake. Probably not enough to worry though.
After blocking the intake in the aquarium, the gauge instantly read 8 Hg Inches.
8 / 2.9 = .276 ATM
2.76 * 1.4 = 3.86 PSI
3.86 PSI is not enough for degasification to occur, but possibly at the impeller there might be a lower pressure, it might be. Weird thing is, I can't get micro bubbles to occur when blocking the intake and allowing a very small amount of fluid to flow, yet it occurs with very little flow with fairly clogged media. This is spiking my interest....I will really have to go deeper into this.
I also don't use the baskets, so I may need to get my hands on some baskets to do more thorough testing.
Good conversion table is HERE
I think what I can do, to get the vacuum at the impellers eye, is to use a rubber plug, drill a hole big enough of the tubing for the gauge to go through, insert the rubber plug into the Impeller's intake orifice, prime the pump, turn it on, and I should be able to get a reading.
I just did a vacuum test using an Engine Vacuum Gauge which measures Hg Inches or Cm. I hooked it up to the intake tube via my Nitrate Filter hookup.
The interesting thing, was that, after hooking up the gauge, I opened the ball valve on the intake tubing which allows vacuum to the gauge, and before restricting the flow on the suction side, the gauge read vacuum! Its not accurate enough to tell me how much at that point but the gauge moved a good amount leading me to believe that there is a very slight restriction in intake. Probably not enough to worry though.
After blocking the intake in the aquarium, the gauge instantly read 8 Hg Inches.
8 / 2.9 = .276 ATM
2.76 * 1.4 = 3.86 PSI
3.86 PSI is not enough for degasification to occur, but possibly at the impeller there might be a lower pressure, it might be. Weird thing is, I can't get micro bubbles to occur when blocking the intake and allowing a very small amount of fluid to flow, yet it occurs with very little flow with fairly clogged media. This is spiking my interest....I will really have to go deeper into this.
I also don't use the baskets, so I may need to get my hands on some baskets to do more thorough testing.
You must mean 0.3 because 0.03 would be about .42 PSI. 0.3 atm is 4.2 PSI and that is still not enough from what I have read. I would need about -13-14 PSI to get water to "boil" at aquarium temp.
Good conversion table is HERE
I think what I can do, to get the vacuum at the impellers eye, is to use a rubber plug, drill a hole big enough of the tubing for the gauge to go through, insert the rubber plug into the Impeller's intake orifice, prime the pump, turn it on, and I should be able to get a reading.
right on with the research Well when someone comes in and try to be a punk telling me I am wrong or I don't know what a certain term means, after I have already done the research months ago, I tend to get very annoyed and I have to back myself up.
Now that he got me going though, now I will probably do more testing.
Now that he got me going though, now I will probably do more testing.
I should repost the sentence about familiarizing myself with terms....but spin the direction 180 degrees.tcarswell;3099189; said:I feel ya.
Me said:
Tomarrow, off to the hardware store for ....supplies!
If you take the 3.86 PSI the pump created after blocking the intake, and pretend the Fx5 was 11 inches in diameter and 14 inches deep, I forget the actual measurments, I will have to take them again soon, that equals -1866.54 pounds of NEGITIVE force applied to the side walls... yikes..... Can you see a standard 5 gallon bucket standing up to that force?
