I have been treating my tank for the past week now with no improvements. I started with using Rid Ich+ without water changes once every 24 hours. Then worked up to using the same stuff with 20% water changes. Now I just started to do the 20% water change with Rid Ich, but every 12 hours (just started this morning with the 12 hour regimen so I am uncertain of how it's working) Before I started 12 hour regimen, the fish were getting worse. They had just a few spots, now they are scratching. It started with one of my neon tetras scratching and has now developed to all three of my round banded barbs having numerous spots and scratching. I have killed a shrimp in the process and really do not want my $30 pleco dying (not showing signs yet). I also have a few Rasboras and a dwarf neon gourami which show no signs. I read that rasing the temps and adding salt will help, but can I use that with the medicine? I would rather not add salt if I didn't have to because last time I did that, it screwed up my levels ridiculously. All help is appreciated.
Can not kill the Ick
- Thread starter hcky4206sic6
- Start date
Salt screwed up your parameters ridiculously? I have never seen this issue. Did you dissolve the salt first when you tried it? What test kit did you use? API is what I recommend for accurate results. I have never heard of a report that salt can kill beneficial bacteria. Meds are just last resort. Stick on the meds until 14 days is over. Ich is expected to worsen in the middle of treatment before it gradually diminishes. You've already done the meds and switching to another will not help matters.
turn up the temp to 88f-90f for a couple of days to speed up the life cycle. this will help the meds as ick can only be killed when it's in the free swimming stage. the higher temps will speed up the growth cycle to get to the free swimming stage. what is your temp now?
I have personally seen the effects of to much salt to quick on biological bacteria. When I switched my puffers tank from fresh to brackish (1.010SG) in about a week and a half. The tank crashed and ammonia levels went through the roof. But remember this was using way more salt than anyone would ever have to use as a medication. But it can happen.Lupin;2758368; said:
Yeah for some reason it messed with my hardness/PH levels... no clue why. I did dissolve it first... I would put it in the new water I was either topping off or adding new water to my tank with. My heat in the tank is generally around 79 degrees... it will sometimes fluctuate to about 81. I got all these fish from the local fish store. They take really good care of their fish. I am in there once or twice a week and none of the tanks I took my fish out of had an ich outbreak. They said it has something to do with the temp or some sort of loud noise (banging on the glass) scaring them and stressing them out. The water temp is usually a solid 79 and there is no loud commotion going on in my house. So I have no clue what brought this on. Today is day 11 so hopefully it will be pretty well taken care of by day 14. Thanks for your help guys and anymore is appreciated.
Each time you do a water change the medicine is just getting sucked out.
I agree with rasing the water temp.
I agree with rasing the water temp.
I just posted about this on another thread - try this.
Fish Vet Freshwater Ecolibrium
http://www.aquariumpro.net/p-FSVECOF,CLR.html
It is safe on scaleless fish like clown loaches and won't harm your biological filtration - I used it and it worked like a charm.
If your going to order it online then just continue with increased temp and aquarium salt treatment along with water changes until the product arrives.
If you decide to stick with whatever treatment you are doing then you should stop the water changes and dose the medication as instructed by the manufacturer. Its usually no carbon in filter and no water changes for a certain amount of time because the constant water changes will decrease the concentration of the medication along with its overall efficacy in curing the ich. Also make sure that you have no scaleless fish in your tank as they will be adversely effected by the use of products containing either copper or malachite green.
Ich seems to be a problem almost everyone deals with at some point.
, but I'm sure you'll get through it.
I hope this helps and keep us posted on the results.
Fish Vet Freshwater Ecolibrium
http://www.aquariumpro.net/p-FSVECOF,CLR.html
It is safe on scaleless fish like clown loaches and won't harm your biological filtration - I used it and it worked like a charm.
If your going to order it online then just continue with increased temp and aquarium salt treatment along with water changes until the product arrives.
If you decide to stick with whatever treatment you are doing then you should stop the water changes and dose the medication as instructed by the manufacturer. Its usually no carbon in filter and no water changes for a certain amount of time because the constant water changes will decrease the concentration of the medication along with its overall efficacy in curing the ich. Also make sure that you have no scaleless fish in your tank as they will be adversely effected by the use of products containing either copper or malachite green.
Ich seems to be a problem almost everyone deals with at some point.
, but I'm sure you'll get through it.I hope this helps and keep us posted on the results.
remember, even though the visible signs on your fish dissapear, the parisite may not be gone. keep up the treatment for another few weeks..
Do you have carbon in your filter? Carbon removes Rid-ich...
"It is important to note that activated carbon will remove the malachite green component of the formulation. "
http://www.novalek.com/kordon/ridich/index.htm
"It is important to note that activated carbon will remove the malachite green component of the formulation. "
http://www.novalek.com/kordon/ridich/index.htm