Swiftwater;2327205; said:Thanks pacu mom and everyone else, but what happens if I put too little ammonia? would putting less be better than overdosing it? Could I keep any plant while cycling? all I really want is java moss lol.
Putting in less ammonia = less "food" for the beneficial bacteria you are trying to colonize = less beneficial bacteria.
The problem with cycling with a few fish is that they don't produce a lot of ammonia--so you only colonize enough beneficial bacteria to handle a light bioload.....then you add more fish, and the filtration system doesn't have enough beneficial bacteria to handle the larger bioload. That is when the tank goes into a "mini-cycle" where you get an ammonia reading--all because there is not enough BB to consume all the ammonia being generated with the extra fish.
So if you fishless cycle with a small amount of ammonia, you could end up with a small amount of BB, i.e., not enough to handle the bioload of the fish you are going to put in the tank. If this is the case, then the tank will go into a mini-cycle when you add the fish.
4 ppm of ammonia is a huge amount of ammonia--very very toxic to fish. If you fishless cycle using 4 ppm of ammonia, you will colonize a huge amount of BB which can easily handle the bioload of any fish you put in your tank. It would be extremely difficult to put in so many fish that their bioload exceeded 4 ppm of ammonia a day, but you would have enough BB that could handle that much ammonia a day (if you fishless cycle with 4 ppm ammonia first)
I advised you not to go higher than 4 ppm ammonia, only because the next reading on the test card is 8 ppm which is double the amount of ammonia. With the API test kit, there is no 5 ppm for ammonia. If you fishless cycle, you need a master test kit. The paper test strips are not accurate enough.
I know first hand what can happen to fish in an uncycled tank. As a very ignorant newbie I got a second 55 gallon tank, filled it with dechlorinated water, plugged in the new HOB filters and then moved two 15" pacu from the other 55 gallon tank they shared with four 8" oscars and two 12" plecos. My husband found the tank with 8 big fish at a moving away yard sale. We watched the tank get cloudy and the fish almost die. To save their lives, we had to move the pacu back into their old home with the other six fish. I didn't understand what happened, until I learned about the nitrogen cycle. I absolutely didn't want the same thing to happen when we moved the pacu into the 300 gallon tank...that would have been disasterous. After fishless cycling the big tank, we moved six fish into their new home with full confidence that we had enough BB to handle the bioload of the fish.
Your test kit will be very useful to you for water changes. Nitrates are the end product of the nitrogen cycle. Keeping nitrates below 20 ppm works for most fish. Some fishkeepers keep nitrates below 10 ppm. The volume and frequency of your water changes should be based on keeping the nitrates at least below 20 ppm.
At the end of the fishless cycling process, when your readings are 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite, you will have a high nitrate reading. At that point, you can do a 100% water change and move your fish in. For a long time I kept a log of the nitrate reading and how much water I changed. Since we knew when we had to change the water, I stopped logging the changes. Our fish are growing and thriving and the nitrate level is creeping up, so I'll probably start logging the water changes again.


Good luck on the fishless cycling...actually there is no luck involved...it will work great