Canister filter advice and UV light useful?

[TekOne]

Hello MonsterFishKeepers.

A newbie in Canister filter need some basic advice. I have using HOB for last 5yrs and I like to try to canister filter for better bio filtration.

I have 8 Ranchus, 2" size on 60G tank and I thinking to add 4-5 more 2" Oranda or Lionhead and let it grow. On my 60G tank, I have a 100gph powerhead and 300gph HOB filter. feeding 4times a day with small amount Tetra Flake and water changed 10-15% 2times per week. Maybe goldfish tend to messy or feeding too much. Water never get clear.

I thinking to invest on Canister filter such as SunSun 302, 303b or 304b For 60G tank with 10-12 of 2" of Goldfish. Which model of SunSun do you guy advice?

302 has 265gph without UV light and has media included for 40ish. Only 18w power consuming
303b has 370gph with UV light. around 50ish. but it running 35w consuming
304b has 265gh with UV light. around 50ish only 18w comsuming.

My question, as bio-filtration, it recommend snow flow-rate. 265gph should be enough for 60g tank?? Also, is that UV light do any good for goldfish tank?

Any valuable advice will be appreciate

 

[nossalucard]

Honest Opinion...

Yes you are feeding too much(I wouldn’t go over twice a day max), and NOT changing enough water at a time, for feeding "goldfish" that much. Also, YES, goldfish are quite messy, and I was always told that they are constantly excreting waste of some kind.

Second, it's a little harder for bacteria to produce as fast in a cold water setup due to temp, so I imagine it takes them longer to bounce back or "catch up" to spikes in ammonia after such frequent feeding’s.

By the way, what kind of HOB are you using?

I have 7 Red Devils (10 inch father and his 6 juvies 4-5inch)in a 75, and I don’t even feed but once a day(except Fridays-twice heavily as a treat before 3rd Saturday water-change), and do 2 to 3 50%+ water-changes a week. I also have a FX6(matrix pond & Substrat Pro), 2-300GPH HOB's, and 2-1050gph Hydor powerheads for "poop management"....LOL. I used to have more filtration on it, but I recently took off the second canister to see if the rest can handle the load. Thing is, the fish are still growing and I can always put it back if needed.

If you want to try to clear it without any additional purchases, FIRST,I would seriously recommend cutting back to feeding once every other day for 2 weeks. That should give your current filter a chance to catch up *IF* that’s the case.

You could then go to once per day for two weeks, and monitor clarity. If still good, at a MAX twice a day and monitor. If it starts clouding back up/getting murky, then you know at what point you have more "input" than you have bacteria able to handle it. I would up the water-changes to 25-30% twice a week during the same time period. If you decide to go to feeding twice a day or more however up them to 50% twice a week.

Another thing...is your tank near sunlight by chance? How long are you leaving on the lights?

As far as the Canister, it cant HURT to go with a 304 or 303B on your tank(I have 3 of the 304/404B from other tanks I used to have set up I keep for emergency's), but do yourself a favor and do not use (don't turn on)the U/V feature. In my opinion, anyone that HAS to have a U/V to clarify there water has much deeper issues, plus the U/V is KNOWN to prematurely deteriorate the plastic trays inside these canisters. Also pick up some cheap extra bio media for your sunsun if you get one. It doesn’t have to be an expensive kind of bio media (I've used potscrubbers in mine in the past for years).


Hope this helps....

 

[Drstrangelove]

I have 8 Ranchus, 2" size on 60G tank and I thinking to add 4-5 more 2" Oranda or Lionhead and let it grow. On my 60G tank, I have a 100gph powerhead and 300gph HOB filter. feeding 4times a day with small amount Tetra Flake and water changed 10-15% 2times per week. Maybe goldfish tend to messy or feeding too much. Water never get clear.

You need to test and post your water parameters (especially ammonia, nitrites, nitrates; pH and temperature would be helpful as well), and post a good clear picture of the tank water.

Until then it's a guess.

As far as a UV, it will always be helpful, but in most under stocked and well maintained tanks, it's not truly needed. There are many times it's really useful however, and I'd say that if a person can afford it, especially if they have stock they really care for, I'd absolutely go for it.

 

[TekOne]

Thanks all for the kindly reply and advice.

Yes, I need to cut off the feeding.. As these baby 2" Ranchu, I want them to grow more.

Water temp is around 75-80 deg due to Los Angeles Temp is around 90 to 100 last couple days.

I'm using a old model Whisper 300gph with sponge. and 100gph Powehead with sponge and air intranet for oxygenation.

I just tested my ammonia ~ 2.0 and Temp ~75. I'll post Nitrate and pH.

Light, I have LCD 6w lamp for 10-12hr per day. Off after 11pm.

 

[nossalucard]

Thanks all for the kindly reply and advice.

Yes, I need to cut off the feeding.. As these baby 2" Ranchu, I want them to grow more.

Water temp is around 75-80 deg due to Los Angeles Temp is around 90 to 100 last couple days.

I'm using a old model Whisper 300gph with sponge. and 100gph Powehead with sponge and air intranet for oxygenation.

I just tested my ammonia ~ 2.0 and Temp ~75. I'll post Nitrate and pH.

Light, I have LCD 6w lamp for 10-12hr per day. Off after 11pm.

Yes..If your ammonia is at 2.0, then you definitely need to cut back on feeding and follow my once per every other day for at least a week or 2. In the immediate term, I would recommend start doing those 30% water changes twice a week minimum if not 50%. The reason I'd start with the 30% is because your fish arent used to even 30% yet, but you are quite high on the ammonia scale, and that DOES burn their skin and makes it harder to absorb oxygen for their respiratory system/gills. Heck, you may even want to start today with 2 - 25% water changes 2 to 3 hours apart to get that level down as soon as safely possible. Just make sure you use a good dechlorinator/water conditioner- DEFINETLY PRIME if you can get some immediately. Also, it wouldn't hurt to even add a teaspoon(low dose) of NON-IODIZED salt per 5 gallons as a therapeutic measure after the water change(s). IT MUST BE NON-IODIZED SALT, so pay attention IF you're buying from the grocery store. I would also lower the water level and inch or two so the whisper's return makes a good splash/disruption of the waters surface for oxygenation.

In addition, you definitely need more filter, but DO NOT remove the one you have for at least 6 weeks after you add the new canister, or you will have even bigger problems. As a matter of fact, I'd keep BOTH on the tank(cheap insurance).

As far as temp, not much you can do other than the old-school floating frozen water bottles on the surface to get the temp down, but NOT TOO FAST, or you'll be dealing with ick.

For the lighting, I would cut it back to no more than 6-8 hours per day (I use a timer on mine, and they're not even on when I'm at work 8am-5pm).

Best of Luck, keep us posted....

 

[TekOne]

Thanks again for Quick reply.

I tested my Nitrate ~ 40 ppm and Nitrite 0.5 - 1.0ppm. pH unread able.

I'm gonna setup another old AquaClear 500 which running 500gph has big Sponge, and add Ceramic ring and Bio balls will similar to canister filter? I always can run it as 200gph by reduce the flow for bio-filtration.

The way AuaClear water run from bottom to up pass thought big sponge, ceramic ring and bio-balls on the top similar to canister filter work.

 

[TekOne]

Also, adding Nitrify bacteria or bacteria booster will help? local Petco shop advice to add API Stress Zyme to establish the tank

 

[nossalucard]

Thanks again for Quick reply.

I tested my Nitrate ~ 40 ppm and Nitrite 0.5 - 1.0ppm. pH unread able.

I'm gonna setup another old AquaClear 500 which running 500gph has big Sponge, and add Ceramic ring and Bio balls will similar to canister filter? I always can run it as 200gph by reduce the flow for bio-filtration.

The way AquaClear water run from bottom to up pass thought big sponge, ceramic ring and bio-balls on the top similar to canister filter work.

Sounds like you're on the right track, and YES that aqua-clear 500 with sponge and bio is essentially just like a canister, just a bit less space for ceramic bio-media(although sponge is GREAT for bio as well to be honest. That said, with enough bio-max (or whatever other ceramic type media you can get cheap, but not plastic bio balls),on top of the sponge, you probably wont even need that Sunsun if you dont "want" to spend that money right now.

Just make sure to keep the Whisper on there as well. Also, I would turn the Aquaclear 500 down on low as about 30%-50% of water then has to pass through the media basket TWICE due to the re-circulation feature. Heck, I love Aquaclear 500's/110's, I've even got a couple my self in the closet for emergencies as well.

For the Bio additive, you might not even need it, and it's sometimes best to let the tank correct itself, by just keeping up with the water changes, and lowering your feeding. If you feel you must use some, pick up some Stability and give it a try. Definitely get the PRIME however....

 

[TekOne]

Big thanks again for advice nossalucard.

I did setup the AquaClear 500 w/sponge and I'm going to add some lava rock as media. Plastic Bio-ball with a net flowing on the top so it can expose air and water flow by.

As how long do need to keep my Whisper filter, as I can see my fishes doesn't like the strong water flow of both filters.

I am thinking to throw Whisper filter's media into AquaClear 500 to keep Bio and shut off the Whisper. As the water flow of both filter make the fishes no resting times.

 

[nossalucard]

Is that with both running on "low flow"?

If not try that and see if the fish can tolerate it a bit better.

Sounds like you're on the road to recovery, stay patient...