Cascade 1200 mods....

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Racersk

Piranha
MFK Member
Apr 22, 2010
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Covington
I've been lurking/contributing for a while and I need some real life help.

On my 90 gallon (only ~75 actual measured gallons) I am using one Cascade 1200 and a Hydor V sponge filter. I have clear water with my current bioload of several knifes, bichirs and tinfoil barbs.

I have used the suggested floss pads for the Cascade and have a bag of ceramic rings (not sure of ring bag volume, but was included with purchase of canister), along with the standard foam prefilter/bio filter. I have added a custom bagged stage of crushed coral (thanks Knifegill!) to raise my PH due to soft water conditions. I have cleaned the filter 2 times since my tank has been set up, each time the first few layers of floss were green, clogged and really not worth reusing-cheap enough to just replace, so I did.

My readings are most always within specs, with about 40-50 ppm nitrates at the end of 7 days when I change ~35-40% of the water.

I want 3 things from my set up.

Super crystal clean water-no fog when my black (night) light comes on!:dbz3_4:

Long maintenance intervals, ie like I keep hearing about Fulval's and Eheim's.

Lower Nitrate levels for less amount/frequent needed water changes


What can I add to my canister trays to achieve my main three goals?

Efimech?
Substrate Pro?

All these brand names throw me in one direction or another, I want to know what works, not what the manufacture states. Mechanical filtration from granuals baffles me? How does the media keep clear enough for 4 to 6 (or longer?)month cleaning intervals?


On a similar note, how EXACTLY does a clean out (ie: Eheim 2620 and 2260) function? As I want to add it to a custom sump/canister design filter already in use on another tank and I like the idea of a clean out without a total sump breakdown for cleaning/maintenance is a smart idea.

Thanks for any suggestions!
 
My take.

I always employ multiple canisters on large tanks. If it were me, i'd have two 1200s running on your tank, plus at least one large capacity hob filter. This cuts down on filter maintenance significantly, however does not reduce the amount of water changes one should make.

From what i've gathered, filter socks in a sump are the way to go for super clear water. That and UV lamp filters.

Just my two pennies.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I am currently looking at setting up an additional canister like a Eheim Classic series, not sure on their sizing though, as I am not super familiar with the brand.

But you didn't mention what media your using in your canister setups...There may be something out there that can help in my current situation and canister to help keep my fish healthier between water changes.

And i am still listening for responses on how the clean outs work on the big boy canisters...
 
I stick with the media Penn Plax provides. I find with multiple canisters, i'm cleaning them out a lot less.

I run a 75 with a cascade, plus a ac 500 and a couple of ac 70s. I Change 15-20 percent of the water every 3rd day.
 
In my opinion, your tank is under filtrated.

I also own a Cascade 1200 on a 180 gallon tank; I clean every 2 months (it also has a AC500 + AC300). The cascade is rated at a MAX of 350 GPH. That's roughly 3.5x turn over for your tank. I usually shoot for 5x-7x turnover per hour.
Like the other poster mentioned, grab another canister or do a HOB like AC110.

Less maintenance on canister filters is directly correlated to bio-load and amount of filtration on tanks. High Bio-load + low filtration = LOTS of maintenance.
 
I think you're way underfiltered! I have a Cascade 1500 that I'm setting up on a 23g planted tank. I had the 1500 before on a 55g and it just didn't seem like enough. I would be running an FX5 on a 90g
 
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cheap too
It's the Bees Knees
 
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