ceramic rings

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
nc_nutcase;3630645; said:
 
For those of you turning your filtration upside down to prove a point… please do so wisely and be prepared to water change as needed if/when things go wrong…
 
 

no need to worry, take a look at those photos, my 100g IS my test setup it's been unfinished and my playing ground for experimentation with different types of media, different types of stocking, different lighting, tops, etc.

none of the stock is in danger as the mollies and platys (along with the rainbow shark) can go into the 3 45g tubs used for fry raising in the garage. The RD and JD's along with the plecos can go into my 125g with the Oscars as they had been prior to the 100g.

the 100g is in my den rigth across from my computer. It is the tank I most observe and the setup I test everything on before applying it elsewhere.

I assure you there is no danger in my experiment.

now as for test:

I fed everyone shrip and pellets to the cichlids, algae wafers and zuchini to the plecos (as well as shrimp the cichlids didn't get first)

flake to the mollies, platies, and rainbow shark. i also added 3 more balck mollies ranging from 3" to 2" , 1 3" dalmatian, and 1 2" platy(trip to lfs to get some new breeders, after this summer and half my breeders died from old age I started adding some new one every once in a while to revitalize the breeding stock)


Observations:

"bio media" has been out for sevaral hours and no crash or ammo spike whatsoever. ammo is reading 0 still even after feeding and adding more stock.


Hypothesis:
In an established tank there is no need for "bio media" you only need mechanical filtration and turnover for waste purposes.

"Bio media" as in media with increased surface area per square inch from another tank however is important for setting up new tanks because it will enable you to add stock immediatly rather than having to go through a new cycle process.

Reasoning:

1. I have yet to cycle a new tank that I have enough media to provide from an existing tank. The 100g's "bio media" actually came from my 125g when it was setup, it had stock immediatly and never had an ammo spike. I attribute this to the existing bb on the bio media from the 125g.

2. I have never had a tank crash because I removed "bio media" from it to sponsor another. I have never even had a mini cycle because I removed "bio media" from a tank to sponsor another.

we are still in the preliminary stages but initial observations are supporting my hypothesis thus far.

Possible Counter arguments:

1. Your tank is not overstocked.

Answer: Of course not, I in no way advocate overstocking and thus excuse it as poor judgment and not a baseline to use for filtration setup/observation/teaching.

2. Your tanks has been setup and runnign for a while.

Answer: Of course it has. My hypothesis is based on an existing setup and specifically differenciates new setups from existing.


3. Your experiment has not been run long enough.

Answer. Of course not, my experiment is in no way over. I will keep the "bio media" out until I feel a valid conclusion can be drawn form my experiment. I do this with all experiments on this tank.
 
xaznkewlguyx;3629126; said:
Are you guys still argueing about using bio media vs not using media?

Either way the OP is going to use it.. so I don't know why you guys continue to argue. He just wanted to know which one was better, which he knows now that it does not matter.

:D
 
Bderick67;3629105; said:
You are using the "Mtn Dew caps" as bio media. The argument here is that your tank does not need bio media. What do you think would happen to the health of your tank if you where to remove these Mtn Dew caps?

Whose argument is that? It's crazy, if not stupid, to even have a slight thought that your tank does not need bio media! :screwy: May be "fancy" bio media is not needed, but that doesn't mean bio media in any form is not needed at all!
 
jlnguyen74;3631242; said:
Whose argument is that? It's crazy, if not stupid, to even have a slight thought that your tank does not need bio media! :screwy: May be "fancy" bio media is not needed, but that doesn't mean bio media in any form is not needed at all!

:duh:
 
nc_nutcase;3630645; said:
That “opinion” is based on 20~25 years of personal experience of maintaining aquariums not ever relying on “bio media”… That opinion is supported by the FACT that this hobby existed for MANY years long before manufacturers came up with the idea of bio media…
 
If bacteria could thrive before the idea of “bio media” was made up… why would you now be xxxxxx enough to believe that “bio media” is needed?
 
 
For those of you turning your filtration upside down to prove a point… please do so wisely and be prepared to water change as needed if/when things go wrong…
 
 
Bderick - I would question your results because you have something to prove and are going to come up with results that support your believe, by hook or by crook… and FYI, you didn’t get me to accept a darn thing… I’ve noted overstocked bare bottom tanks with no décor as a possible situation that might need bio media for years…

So you want to add no input regarding this experiment.? Works for me:thumbsup:
 
There go the unnecessary 9 pages! :ROFL:

nc_nutcase;3618047; said:
No matter how you word it... bio media is just a surface area for bacteria to grow on... and no matter what you think, bacteria was growing in ample quantities in aquariums long before bio media was thought of...
 
jlnguyen74;3631258; said:
There go the unnecessary 9 pages! :ROFL:

:ROFL:I guess what it really boils down to is what one considers as bio media.
 
maybe but it certainly makes for interesting conversation.

besides starting a new thread would leave out 9 pages of useless off topic argument. lol
 
For anyone that may care; results of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH tests


Before removing one XP3 filter,ammonia zero, did not test other params

Sample of tank water from 12-13 hours after removing the xp3(this water sample set for another 9-10 hours before testing)

ammonia .25ppm, nitrite 0, nitrate 30ppm

23 hours after removing xp3

ammonia .125 ppm, nitrite 0, nitrate 30ppm

The ph in the tank is 6.9.

Tap water:mad: ammonia 1.0 ppm, nitrite .25ppm, nitrate less then 5ppm looks to be maybe 1-2ppm. pH 7.4

I need to set up baselines for params after W/Cs and also the feeding schedule is somewhat erratic. I would like to know the effects the W/C and feeding has on the tank before I remove anymore bio media.

Once I have established these baselines and get the tank balanced to the current filtration I will start a new thread on this.
 
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