Yeah that does sound a bit crap, who knows; you may end up much preferring canisters
Changing from dual hobs to dual canisters
- Thread starter Itainteasy
- Start date
Danny, I'm not sure which make/model HOBs you have, but given you say they are "black", they're probably not Aqua clears. That being the case, it would be difficult to transfer bio media from them, to your new canisters. If so, you'll have to run the 2 new canisters along with the HOBs for a good 3 weeks. I'd go longer depending on your bio load in the tank.
I too would skip any chemical type media like carbon and use that space for more bio media. In my 3-tray canister I run 2 trays of coarse sponge and one tray with various bio media. In my 4-tray, 2-trays are filled with layers of coarse sponge and 2 with bio. Both of these tanks have HOBs to do the majority of the mechanical filtration because I hate cleaning canisters.
I too would skip any chemical type media like carbon and use that space for more bio media. In my 3-tray canister I run 2 trays of coarse sponge and one tray with various bio media. In my 4-tray, 2-trays are filled with layers of coarse sponge and 2 with bio. Both of these tanks have HOBs to do the majority of the mechanical filtration because I hate cleaning canisters.
They are suggesting that you keep the hob along with the canisters until the media it the canisters have established bb....about a month. I say its fine, to just throw all the filtration media into the canisters and remove the hob altogether.
In regards to carbon, it is rather dated. Most people, including myself, haven't used them since the 90's. Use that extra room for more bio media or filter floss.
I ended up throwing my filter media in the tray with the bio media so that it would attach itself quickly and removed the hobs all together. And for precaution I put a large media sack full of gravel from a fully cycled (healthy) tank. This tank was fully cycled so I'm sure there's lots of BB in my sand, driftwood, etc.
I did use the carbon, bease I didn't want to leave it empty, next time I clean it I'll have tons more bio medIA on hand to remove carbon and replace with it. The tank looks MUCH better with the hobs gone (especially since it's displayed on both sides) no more huge black boxes and wires.
And I'm sure my filtration will be tons better, the hobs on there were for 55 gallon tanks x 2 the two canisters are 540gph sun suns.
I did use the carbon, bease I didn't want to leave it empty, next time I clean it I'll have tons more bio medIA on hand to remove carbon and replace with it. The tank looks MUCH better with the hobs gone (especially since it's displayed on both sides) no more huge black boxes and wires.
And I'm sure my filtration will be tons better, the hobs on there were for 55 gallon tanks x 2
the two canisters are 540gph sun suns.120 gallon 5 footer btw.
The canisters were pretty easy to install. Straight forward. They each have integrated 9w UV filters as well. Not sure how much they'll help but I'm sure it's better than nothing.
The canisters were pretty easy to install. Straight forward. They each have integrated 9w UV filters as well. Not sure how much they'll help but I'm sure it's better than nothing.
IMHO a tank needs a combo of both, preferably a AC110 HoB, Hob has a higher turn over and is easier to clean. Canister has a lower turn over with larger media capacity. this makes the Hob a better mech filtration removing most the load from the the canister that is much more a pita to clean. HoB mech filtration more than bio, canister more bio filtration than mech.
While I definitely agree on HOB being much simpler/quicker to clean, I'm going to have to disagree with the other generalization. Otherwise, you're basically saying an AC110 produces more turnover than an FX. It comes down to basic mechanical physics. What dictates turn over rate(gph), is the motor and resistance of flow. If you cram an AC110 full of media and you remove everything except for the most porous pad in an FX, do you think the AC is still going to have more flow? It comes down to how you set up your filters. Many, many members here only have canister filtration on their set up with solid parameters and crystal clear water. While I utilize hobs, canisters, sponges, and box filters, my 180 operates only on canisters and hasn't had a single issue in regards to parameters or clarity. The canisters on this 180 are specifically set up for either predominantly bio filtration or mechanical filtration. It doesn't have to be set up this way, but I chose for it to be this way. So, the point being, is that canisters can be designed to function, how you want them to function. They are not poor performers in terms of mechanical filtration nor are they only good for bio filtration
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I also would have suggested better mechanical filtration from canisters, as they have better flow to push and pull particles into the canister; but poor air/water exchange to breakdown organics compared to hobs, which have the advantage of exposure to air (bio), but poor flow rate in and out from a mechanical perspective...either wat, the two sun suns rated at 540gph each will make for impressive filtration on that size of tank imo
Ya. So far less than 24 hours hooked up and I can tell a difference in water clarity. And I don't even have the best bio-media or sponges in there yet. Need to recover the loss of money lol. I'm gonna run it as is for probably a month and then when it's time to clean it, I'll pack it with the best media. (I'm thinking bio-home).
Tray 1. Coarse/med/fine foam
Tray 2. Half filter floss/half ceramic
Tray 3. All bio home
Tray4. Bio balls. Maybe half bio balls half bio home.
Let me know what u guys think/would change
Tray 1. Coarse/med/fine foam
Tray 2. Half filter floss/half ceramic
Tray 3. All bio home
Tray4. Bio balls. Maybe half bio balls half bio home.
Let me know what u guys think/would change
