Channa asiatica for 100g 4ft tank?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
They love to dig so a fair amount substrate makes them happy . Also lots of large driftwood prices to form caves . They'll move them to build a cave/tunnels when older.

No heater , they are subtropical and seem to prefer the Cooler end of that spectrum.

Dark colored substrate will bring out better colors and helps keep the over all light levels down. The tank should have a dark gloomy look to it . Floating cover is also important. Plants are great but stick to stuff that grows I wood as anything inthe substrate will be uprooted. Ideally you shouldn't be able to see the fish unless it wants to be seen. Once comfortable and if given the option to hide easily they'll be front and center boldly flaring at you or anyone else who approaches, but if it's an open style tank they'll find they most secluded spot and hide in it.

The lid needs to need completely escape proof , if their is a crack or hole that they can squeeze through they will get to it, amazing escape artists .

Also I find they are prone to obesity, I'm sure they'll eat themselves to death if allowed too so watch the amount of food offered . give it based on body weight not how hungry they act lol.

They dispise bubblers and prefer little to no flow. Mine is in an unfiltered heavily planted tank because she intentionally clogs filters. she repeatedly collects sand and spits it into the filter intakes until the flow stops. She does it every time withing minutes of the filter turning on so I gave up after burning through several filters.

Like many channa they like aged stable water so sick to small water changes when needed. Once set up avoid doing any rearranging in the tank they don't like change of any sort even moving a piece driftwood while cleaning throughs mine into a fit. She attacks me and hilariously she'll also attack whatever decore looks out of place normally by the next morning the tanks been turned upside down because she's decided to rearrange everything to how she wants it lol.

All those behaviours really kick I when they mature . After lights out you'll normally hear a steady thumping of driftwood being flipped around in my channa tanks. they are always working on their caves.

Sorry, went on a bit of a rant there lol hope that helps!
 
They love to dig so a fair amount substrate makes them happy . Also lots of large driftwood prices to form caves . They'll move them to build a cave/tunnels when older.

No heater , they are subtropical and seem to prefer the Cooler end of that spectrum.

Dark colored substrate will bring out better colors and helps keep the over all light levels down. The tank should have a dark gloomy look to it . Floating cover is also important. Plants are great but stick to stuff that grows I wood as anything inthe substrate will be uprooted. Ideally you shouldn't be able to see the fish unless it wants to be seen. Once comfortable and if given the option to hide easily they'll be front and center boldly flaring at you or anyone else who approaches, but if it's an open style tank they'll find they most secluded spot and hide in it.

The lid needs to need completely escape proof , if their is a crack or hole that they can squeeze through they will get to it, amazing escape artists .

Also I find they are prone to obesity, I'm sure they'll eat themselves to death if allowed too so watch the amount of food offered . give it based on body weight not how hungry they act lol.

They dispise bubblers and prefer little to no flow. Mine is in an unfiltered heavily planted tank because she intentionally clogs filters. she repeatedly collects sand and spits it into the filter intakes until the flow stops. She does it every time withing minutes of the filter turning on so I gave up after burning through several filters.

Like many channa they like aged stable water so sick to small water changes when needed. Once set up avoid doing any rearranging in the tank they don't like change of any sort even moving a piece driftwood while cleaning throughs mine into a fit. She attacks me and hilariously she'll also attack whatever decore looks out of place normally by the next morning the tanks been turned upside down because she's decided to rearrange everything to how she wants it lol.

All those behaviours really kick I when they mature . After lights out you'll normally hear a steady thumping of driftwood being flipped around in my channa tanks. they are always working on their caves.

Sorry, went on a bit of a rant there lol hope that helps!

Perfect, just what I needed!! Mine was hand feeding brine shrimp about an hour after being in the tank lol and is very active, even though the conditions are not quite where they need to be yet in terms of plants and dimness (although it is getting there) he/she is very active.

One last question. I have read conflicting info on what temps to keep these at, what do you find works best??
 
Perfect, just what I needed!! Mine was hand feeding brine shrimp about an hour after being in the tank lol and is very active, even though the conditions are not quite where they need to be yet in terms of plants and dimness (although it is getting there) he/she is very active.

One last question. I have read conflicting info on what temps to keep these at, what do you find works best??

72-75f is fine for them


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Glad its doing well. They'll do ok at 72-75 but that's the warmer end of the spectrum. There's no straight forward answer to ideal temps. To see them at their best you'll want to allow for seasonal changes.

Keeping without a heater will help provide some day/night as well as seasonal fluctuations . Mine spends most of the year below 20 degrees. It'll climb to 24-25 ish in the warmest summer months and at this time of year I like to see it down closer to 16-18 while working their way down to the winter lows of 14-15c. You'll see them at their best when kept in these cooler temps. I'm sure they could go lower but my basement doesn't get much colder.

If your going to try to pair them I recommend keeping temps on the lower end on the spectrum and summers short to help keep aggression levels down . They'll also need the winter lows to condition them for breeding.
 
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