Chloramine...doodelee doo!

[yourockit]

So, i have advanced to the stage of fishkeeping which involves chloramine and removing it from tap water. I have read that in five days maximun chloramine will dissipate from a tan of water. Is this true? Will all traces of chloramine be gone in five days? or just.

 

[bigspizz]

I have read that chlorine can be "exhausted" from tap water, but chloramines have to be chemically removed. Chloramine (monochloromine) sp is chlorine bonded to ammonia. And we all know ammonia is the devil to fish keepers. Matter of fact chloramines can be "manifested" in the aquarium, when you over feed and do not dechlor, over time........

 

[yourockit]

I have read that chlorine can be "exhausted" from tap water, but chloramines have to be chemically removed. Chloramine (monochloromine) sp is chlorine bonded to ammonia. And we all know ammonia is the devil to fish keepers. Matter of fact chloramines can be "manifested" in the aquarium, when you over feed and do not dechlor, over time........

I read that too. But I also read that chloramines are siply more "stable" thank chlorine, thus, longer lasting, and more difficult to get rid of. I have read that chlorine takes 24 hours to dissipate and that chloramine takes 2-5 days to dissipate. the info I gathered is very vague. I want specifics. thanks

 

[yourockit]

Further, Los Angeles uses chloramine. Here is a statement on it's affect on pets, especially fishes:

Pets and Other Animals
Chloraminated water is safe for pets and other animals to consume, with the exception of fish, reptiles, amphibians, and crustaceans. Chloramines are toxic to fish since water enters through the gill structure and goes directly into the bloodstream. Once in the bloodstream, chloramines bind with the iron in the hemoglobin, reducing the blood's ability to carry oxygen. This ultimately results in the fish suffocating from lack of oxygen. Chloramines are toxic to all fresh and salt water fish and must be removed or neutralized before water can safely be added to fish tanks, aquariums or ponds. It may be possible to add a small amount of untreated chloraminated water to an aquarium or pond to make up for evaporation loss, but the only way to know for sure is to monitor for total chlorine residual. Total chlorine test kits are available from pet stores, pool supply stores, and chemi- cal supply houses. Make sure that the kit is for "total chlorine" or "combined chlorine" and not "free chlorine". A free chlorine test of chloraminated water would result in erroneous readings and might not indicate a situation that could actually be toxic to fish.
Chloramines are a combination of chlorine and ammonia. As they break down, either naturally or through the use of dechlorination chemicals, ammonia is freed. All fish produce some ammonia as a natural byproduct and ammonia levels produced as chloramines break down may be tolerable in individual tanks or ponds. High levels of ammonia, however, can be toxic to fish, reptiles, and crustaceans. Commercial products are available at pet supply stores to remove excess ammonia. Biological filters, natural zeolites, and pH control methods are also effective in reducing the toxic effects of ammonia.

 

[yourockit]

I found the specific answer I was looking for:

Chloramine Removal
Many water treatment techniques and equipment are used to alter and improve the quality of water. Several commonly used ones are not effective in removing chloramines. Worth noting are reverse osmosis and water softening units, neither of which effectively remove chloramines. In addition, boiling water does not effectively remove chloramines. And, unlike chlorine which dissipates when water sits for a few days, chloramines may take weeks to disappear. While sunlight and aeration help remove chloramines from water, allowing water to sit is not a reliable method of chloramine removal.
Two effective methods for removing chloramines include using a chemical to neutralize chloramine or using a granular activated carbon filter. Most pet stores sell chemicals for dechloraminating water and can provide use recommendations. Remember that chemicals that remove only chlorine will not remove chloramines. When using a carbon filter, ensure that it contains high quality granular activated carbon. Carbon filters should be operated at a slow rate to allow sufficient contact time for effective chloramine removal. Testing the treated water will help determine the optimum filtration rate. Filters must be monitored carefully to determine when the carbon media has reached the end of its useful life and needs to be changed. Manufacturers often indicate the maximum number of gallons that can be filtered before the filter is renewed. Check with the supplier for proper operation of equipment for chloramine removal.
A carbon filter also will remove chlorine, hydrogen sulfide, organics, THMs, some pesticides, and radon if present in the water. Unserviced or improperly serviced equipment may deliver surges of water with high levels of some of these contaminants. As the owner or user of a home water treatment device, it is your responsibility to ensure proper operation through monitoring, maintenance, and service.

 

[bigspizz]

I read that too. But I also read that chloramines are siply more "stable" thank chlorine, thus, longer lasting, and more difficult to get rid of. I have read that chlorine takes 24 hours to dissipate and that chloramine takes 2-5 days to dissipate. the info I gathered is very vague. I want specifics. thanks

I was specific, your info is wrong. It can not be dissipated in 5 days or 500 days. Even if you boil it, it will still remain. IT HAS TO BE REMOVED WITH CHEMICALS....Is that more clear?

 

[yourockit]

Two questions remain:

1. What filter system should I buy to remove chloramines and ammonia?

2. Or does the system only have to remove chloramines before chloramines break into constituents, including ammonia?

 

[bigspizz]

Two questions remain:

1. What filter system should I buy to remove chloramines and ammonia?

2. Or does the system only have to remove chloramines before chloramines break into constituents, including ammonia?

Prime.....And question 2 is non aplicable....Are you thinking of a RO/DI, pre filter system?

 

[squint]

A double dose of Prime or a RO/DI system. I actually use both because Prime is cheap when purchased in pond-sized jugs.

When I was just using one sediment pre-filter and one carbon cartridge, chloramine and ammonia were going through. I added two specialized chloramine-removing carbon cartridges and a DI cartridge. That worked for a short time but as the DI cartridge began exhausting, there wasn't enough dwell time for the ammonia portion to be removed (the carbon cartridge will absorb the chlorine part of chloramine but ammonia will pass right through). So now I have 3 DI cartridges, expanding my RO/DI system to 7 stages and occupying a ton of space under my kitchen sink.

It's best to mix Prime with the water and let it sit for awhile before adding it to the tank. I usually let it sit for several days while I adjust the pH, TDS, and temperature. Then I add it to the tank gradually, sometimes over 2-3 days (the filters are still running during this time).

 

[Ianab]

Use a water treatment like Prime. Main ingredient of Prime is sodium thiosulphate.

Simple version - That will convert the Chloramine to a mix of Sodium chloride, ammonium and sulphate.

Sodium chloride is normal salt and is harmless to fish in the small amounts involved.

Ammonium is a much less toxic form of ammonia and likewise wont harm the fish in trace amounts. The tanks biological filter will break this down in due course along with the rest of the ammonia naturally occuring in the tank.

If you dont trust this chemical miracle, or your tap water is really crappy, then run your water through a RO filter and add some mineral salts to get the trace elements and pH buffering correct again. Thats the ultimate for water quality, but if it's just chloramine you are worried about, then any good water conditioner will neutralise it.

Cheers

Ian