Approx 3 yrs ago Seachem decided that due to customers not being able to add 1+1 and divide by 2, they would simplify their dosage instructions on Seachem Safe. This topic was brought up by
pops
, to which I added my 2 cents.
https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/seachem-safe.651005/
If you read that thread, and the links that I posted in that discussion, you'll understand why I didn't agree of the change, and still don't today. Yesterday while attempting to help someone with a chlorine/chloramine situation I see that Seachem has done the same with Prime. I'm at a loss here, has the general public become so lazy and useless that they can't do a bit of research and calculation on their own? Does nobody see an issue here, but me? Seachem is telling you what you should treat your water with, without knowing anything about your local tap water. To me that seems ludicrous.
Seachem Prime instructions circa 2004
DIRECTIONS: Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL). This dose removes approximately 0.6 mg/L ammonia, 3 mg/L chloramine, or 4 mg/L chlorine. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.
Seachem Safe instructions circa 2004
Chlorine: use 5 g (1 tsp.*) to each 1625 L (450 gallons*) of tap water (removes 4 ppm).
Chloramine: use 5 g (1 tsp.*) to each 1250 L (300 gallons*) of tap water (removes 4 ppm).
Ammonia: use 5 g (1 tsp.*) to each 400 L (100 gallons*) of tap water (removes 4 ppm). Do not overdose!
Seemed simple enough to me, and I'm not big on math. First one has to find out if they have chlorine or chloramine as a disinfectant, then find out what the max residual is (posted on annual water reports, many are posted online) and then treat accordingly. Better yet, buy a chlorine test kit and test at your taps, and then treat accordingly. If you have chloramine, buy a Seachem ammonia alert sensor to check for free ammonia (NH3) residual.
https://www.seachem.com/ammonia-alert.php
This becomes critical for those that have chloramine treated tap water, and have high pH values out of their tap, as the higher the pH, the more toxic free ammonia becomes.
But I guess that was too difficult for the masses to figure out, so now the most important thing in this hobby (water quality) is left to a
by guess or by golly set of instructions.
Seachem Prime instructions circa 2019
https://seachem.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000125454-Info-Prime-dosing-instructions
Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 US gallons) of new water. For smaller volumes, please note each cap thread is approximately 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.
So I guess Seachem doesn't want to answer any more mathematical equations, or explain how to add 1+1 and divide by 2, so instead of the old ...….
This dose removes approximately 0.6 mg/L ammonia, 3 mg/L chloramine, or 4 mg/L chlorine, it's now become a one size fits all scenario, and if that doesn't work out then by all means double down. If this wasn't such a sad reflection on where todays world is at, I'd laugh. Consumers can figure out how to download & use a Seachem app, but to borrow a line from my dear old dad, they can't find their own ass from a hole in the ground.
I'm going to guess that the vast majority that read this thread, have no idea what their current disinfectant being used is (chlorine or chloramine) or what the ppm residual is at their taps. For those that do, well done!
duanes
, it all boils down to exactly what he just posted, along with ones disinfectant residual levels. IMHO always best to drop a dime and speak to someone at your local facility so there are no surprises with regards to max/min levels of whatever disinfectant is being used.
… Thanks for the response. I’ll get everything dialed in eventually. Pre filter is in so its one step forward at the least lol. Happy ive been lucky with no “side effects” so far (knock on wood)…
not satisfied tho, if theres a problem im going to fix it. Always room for improvements.
… if i cant get a straight answer from my city ill do it myself just like u said in ur last post. We already know my source is bad at 2.06-2.09 chlorine/chloramines. Super interested to see what chlorine level if any is in any number of tanks im dripping and if its consistent. 