how about having a relatively cheap steel frame made to measure on site, make all the none viewing window sides (if you only have one) with plenty of steel re-enforcing, same on the bottom. have a bricky do the block work internally on the frame, use stainless steel ties, same as a normal wall construction. you could do a semi cavity wall, almost like a solid nine inch wall, tying the inner and outer wall together with block, the cavity will aid heat retention. then render or fibreglass the internals, glaze and weld the top bracing in. that's gotta work???
Concrete/cinder block tank construction
- Thread starter Yanbbrox
- Start date
Sorry Mike, your not far from what I'm thinking, I've just not been posting this for a while the last thing I want is yet another concrete block tank fail thread.
The reason I'm thinking this way is we are hopefully getting a house extension next year(architect is coming around tomorrow). If all goes well I see this as a perfect opportunity to get the vertical rebar for the concrete in the plans for day one.
The you turn up and do a similar size tank and pull it off in plywood, the mind boggles
It's no good your going to have to go on my friends list, Ipswich is a bit of a trek, but you'll be the most locally to me on there unless DiXoN is still active
The reason I'm thinking this way is we are hopefully getting a house extension next year(architect is coming around tomorrow). If all goes well I see this as a perfect opportunity to get the vertical rebar for the concrete in the plans for day one.
The you turn up and do a similar size tank and pull it off in plywood, the mind boggles
It's no good your going to have to go on my friends list, Ipswich is a bit of a trek, but you'll be the most locally to me on there unless DiXoN is still active
I really haven't seen any cinder block tank fail threads on here about the fish tanks failing in that I've seen the 2600 gallon cinder block tank thread and the 5000 gallon cinder block tank thread and then the thread where they knocked down and then riped out both 2600 gallon tanks and the 5000 gallon tnak and then built a 10,000 gallon fish tank on it.
I kind of don't think that many people build cinder block tanks not that much though. But I really like the idea of a fish tank being made out of cinder blocks and cement vs a tank made out of wood which rots to easly.
I kind of don't think that many people build cinder block tanks not that much though. But I really like the idea of a fish tank being made out of cinder blocks and cement vs a tank made out of wood which rots to easly.
huh well //I do have something almost similar except for the size that you are longing for, also ive used poured cement au lieu of blocks with a 6 feet /4feet viewing port ,the water depth is 8 feet ///if you really need to know more contact me at ,,, higranthi@yahoo.com
ive recently built something almost similar with poured cement ,,If you really interested check me at this add higranthi@yahoo.com
There have been a couple of builds on here that are not necessarily fails but unfinished and have been for a couple of years, I'll try to dig up the links.Ocean Railroader;4598702; said:
Wood is perfectly fine for building tanks as long as it's sealed well, water can't touch the wood, just the epoxy. The down side is condensation and evaporation rots the out side very long term.
Cinder block works for me as I can have the rebar built into the house foundations.
quovadis;4598999; said:
Can you not just post the info here so others can gain knowledge from it as well?quovadis;4599003; said:
Hi mate, i was thinking today about this build, and mineas as not yet fully decided what to build it from, i have also thought of poured concrete, a lot more secrure than block, peace of mind, and roughly same cost wise as both would need a stainless steel frame to sit the glass in, oh but that depends on the lining/sealing, lets not get to into that.
The thing i have not fully worked out is the footings, size wise, i say footings as io have a drain ( just 6 inch down) in the middle of wher the tank will stand so need to large strip footing instead of a slab.
I am going to build it as they do raised Koi ponds, if it works for them why not this, exactly the same just warm water. In either block or concrete.
Once i have priced up the cost of block and poured concrete i will get back.
Oh and i have gone up in size to around 1200g
, Just the matter of glass size if it needs to go any thicker than 19mm (3/4) for the increase in width.
wayne
The thing i have not fully worked out is the footings, size wise, i say footings as io have a drain ( just 6 inch down) in the middle of wher the tank will stand so need to large strip footing instead of a slab.
I am going to build it as they do raised Koi ponds, if it works for them why not this, exactly the same just warm water. In either block or concrete.
Once i have priced up the cost of block and poured concrete i will get back.
Oh and i have gone up in size to around 1200g
, Just the matter of glass size if it needs to go any thicker than 19mm (3/4) for the increase in width.wayne
It would seem like Drylok would be one of the easiest to apply and least expensive ways to seal a concrete block tank. Anyone tried this? It works for (concrete block) basement walls...
Matt
Matt
Hiya Wayne,waynes world;4599264; said:Hi mate, i was thinking today about this build, and mineas as not yet fully decided what to build it from, i have also thought of poured concrete, a lot more secrure than block, peace of mind, and roughly same cost wise as both would need a stainless steel frame to sit the glass in, oh but that depends on the lining/sealing, lets not get to into that.
The thing i have not fully worked out is the footings, size wise, i say footings as io have a drain ( just 6 inch down) in the middle of wher the tank will stand so need to large strip footing instead of a slab.
I am going to build it as they do raised Koi ponds, if it works for them why not this, exactly the same just warm water. In either block or concrete.
Once i have priced up the cost of block and poured concrete i will get back.
Oh and i have gone up in size to around 1200g
wayne
The reason I'm thinking block built, I my have said this before but that was just speculation. It is now fact that I can put the vertical rebar into the foundations of the house, we've had the planner/architect around today to discuss the extension and apart from looking a bit bemused by the whole thing he said it's not an issue.
The way they do koi ponds does work with viewing windows, I'm a bit concerned that I've not seen one with an viewing window the size of a fish tanks though say 90% of the wall?
As for the steel frame, I guess that you have it fabricated to the size of the hole, seal that to the block the silicone the glass into the frame?
1200g UK or US, sorry although I'm from the UK it's far easier after spending a few years on here working in USG?
dogofwar;4599577; said:
Matt,
If this ever does go this way I'll be using pond armor, simple reason, I've seen this product work for both concrete/cinder and plywood tanks on here with success, many other products have been tried and failed, I've not heard/read about a problem with pond armor. Plus I've heard their customer service is excellent, and if I bend the arm of some of my American friends on here they may ring and talk to them direct for me without me having to make a load of international calls.
Hi kida,
Sorry, i work in both feet and inchs aswell as cm , mm but always Uk gallon, so my new one will be around 1200 UKG.
If its going to be poured then you/we could make the front/window aperture so the glass can sit in, say about 3x3 inch insett then silicone it in. Would be plenty strong enough, but dont hold me to that, LOL.
Just a bit of nifty shutter work involved in the making
I have been looking at pond seal so there would be no need to GRP it, the concrete needs to be slighlty damp also for some as it helps it dry. Well thats from what i can remeber from when i read about it, i think G4 works like that.
Sorry, i work in both feet and inchs aswell as cm , mm but always Uk gallon, so my new one will be around 1200 UKG.
If its going to be poured then you/we could make the front/window aperture so the glass can sit in, say about 3x3 inch insett then silicone it in. Would be plenty strong enough, but dont hold me to that, LOL.
Just a bit of nifty shutter work involved in the making
I have been looking at pond seal so there would be no need to GRP it, the concrete needs to be slighlty damp also for some as it helps it dry. Well thats from what i can remeber from when i read about it, i think G4 works like that.
