Confusion on feeding

[Mmr1084]

Agree with what's posted already. One add (besides don't feed too much) is that going heavy on live, protein and/or fat rich foods means more nitrates, all the more so if % of protein goes over what's optimal.

As far as canister filters go, it's mostly what I run and my nitrates are low. True, some filter types are easier to clean, but there's no reason canister filters should produce more nitrates than other filter types, though some canisters are easier to clean/maintain than others. Media setup can affect this also, some filters out of the box are set up almost backwards, but if mechanical filtration and the bulk of water polishing is at the first stage(s) of water flow it keeps most of the junk trapped there and helps your bio media stay cleaner and more efficient. Nitrates with any filter depends on stocking and feeding, filter capacity, how a filter's set up with media, etc. and your routine for keeping them reasonably clean. It can take some tinkering to find the sweet spot for all of this in a particular tank. I feed moderately and do pretty big water changes, even without heavy stock, for me filter cleaning works itself out to vary on different tanks.

Thank you for your advice. I will look into the media set up if the canister. I believe I set it up backwards as you have said.

 

[Mmr1084]

Agree
A 20% water change on a 100 gal tank once per week for 2 oscars (or any of that size cichlids) is pretty wimpy, especially if you over feed.
I try to do 30-40% water changes every other day for smaller cichlids in 300 gallons of tank, and sump.
And IMO canister filters do more to increase nitrates than not, because they are not normally cleaned regularly enough.

Thank you for your advice. Do such large water changes cause instability in the bio filtration ? That’s what I was afraid of. I have always been taught water quality is important but stability and not doing things to quickly is key to keeping your fish healthy.

 

[Rocksor]

..I was afraid to do to large of a water change too often for fear of causing instability. I think we will be looking into an RO system, our water is very soft already so I usually have to re mineralize it anyway. I’ll test everyday till I’m sure I’ve got he right combo. We have also discussed moving to a 180 gal within the next year. Would that be acceptable? Should we go larger ?

If you do enough water changes, then the tank water will be closer to the same water parameters as the new tank water that you add, therefore, the tank will be more stable in the long run.

If your water is already soft (low GH, low PH, and low TDS), then generally there is no need to remineralize the water.

Post the hardness value (GH), buffering capacity (KH), PH and total dissolved solid levels (TDS). Will tell you if your tap water is fine for oscars.

duanes has a sheet for soft water amazonian based fish

 

[Mmr1084]

Its a bit of a balancing act in the beginning but you'll get used to how much is too much or too little. Also always remember a hungry fish is a healthily fish, well 99% of the time anyway. For now maybe up your maintenance while you are experimenting. One other thing is don't be fooled by the begging for food because Oscars are the masters at this. Please don't fall for those puppy fish eyes lol

Thank you for the advice and reply. They are ALWAYS hungry and always looking at me like I haven’t fed them. It dang near heartbreaking. Lol

 

[Mmr1084]

If you're nitrates keep going up, you're not doing enough water changes. Increase those changes to 50%, or more, if you're feeding a lot. Use the nitrates to dictate your WC schedule.

Thank you for your advice I will do so.

 

[duanes]

Do such large water changes cause instability in the bio filtration ? That’s what I was afraid of. I have always been taught water quality is important but stability and not doing things to quickly is key to keeping your fish healthy.

Since the bacteria that consume ammonia and nitrite are sessile (live on surfaces like substrate, and biomedia, they are not free floating in the water column as plankton), water changes only affect water quality in a positive way.
Water change are the best way to remove nitrate, and other metabolism byproducts (fish urine).
The only thing old water does, is serve to gradually deteriorate conditions, and help exacerbate diseases like HITH, so common in large cichlids like oscars, as they age and grow.

 

[Bobby2415]

Just to put it in perspective a little. I have a 90 gallon with a 9”-10” red Devil. Fx4 canister and cascade penn Plax 1000 canister. Feed once a day, and I do darn close to a fin level water change every 4-6 days to keep nitrate levels down.

 

[Bobby2415]

Also, not sure what your water change routine is, but If you have not invested in a python, do yourself a favor and do so.

 

[TUCCI]

Agree
A 20% water change on a 100 gal tank once per week for 2 oscars (or any of that size cichlids) is pretty wimpy, especially if you over feed.
I try to do 30-40% water changes every other day for smaller cichlids in 300 gallons of tank, and sump.
And IMO canister filters do more to increase nitrates than not, because they are not normally cleaned regularly enough.

When I had a grown Oscar with a handful of CLs in a 90g tank I couldn't do enough water changes to stay ahead of the N03s and that's with two 2215 Eheims. Granted filters are more elegant nowadays. I'm gonna bet with a matched pair in a 100g and large feedings your going to be busy. Keep us posted with pics, I for one am curious.