Constant Drip - A different way

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I'm running HMA filter from devotly discus too, it's a shame to see so much water go to waste but saves you ever doing a water change with a siphon and buket again:)
 
The heart of the HMA from devotedly discus has basically the same cartridge as this

www.osmotics.co.uk/pentek-cbr210-hma-carbon-filter-p-192.html

This is where I get my supplies.

Other than that I can see devotedly discus has better fitting designs but it is also the same cartridge I use inside my 10 inch cartridges which is very good.

You can see on this web page if you look at the upgrade kit and the 300 GPD systems they have extra membranes running in series.

This is how I thought of running mine on the waste of the merlin RO system.
 
PeteLockwood;4840249; said:
Have you ever seen the surge devices people use on saltwater tanks? I think if I was ever gonna set up a constant change system (unlikely I must admit) I'd use one of those to get the new water into the system in one load. It would let you heat the water (i.e. put a heater in the surge bucket) and presumably if located and directed appropriately into the main tank also ensure that the old water is what overflows out of the system. You could probably also use an IV bag to dose the correct amount of dechlor.

This is the kinda thing I'm thinking of.. http://www.breedersregistry.org/Reprints/MFM/v11_aug96/simple_surge.htm
Click to expand...

That is similar to how my old system worked and I had a 50 gal reservoir filling up off the mains with a dosing pump for the dechlor and then a pump to waste with an auto top up. It just did not ever seem to shift enough water once I had some fail safes in and I was getting through £24 per month of quality dechlor to ensure there were no chloramines, the hma at £100 is actually a lot cheaper. I get your point though.
 
Ok, so we are now 2 weeks in. Using the salifert test kit I am reading between the 10ppm and 25 ppm (it is a strong dark 10ppm on the side view which leads me to think it is higher than 10 but it is lighter than 25ppm from above)

I am really pleased as this is a day before the large weekend water change. I will do a 20% change with the gravel clean on Saturday and I expect this to get it to 10ppm


I am happy as long as I keep 25 or less.

I am allowing just over 20gals per day.

I will take some pics of the solenoid etc as it is really nice to have a fail safe....just in case.
 
Any updates? So how much % drip per day are u dripping now?

Much better than messing about with a denitrator and adjusting flow etc. As I have used a sulphur based denitrator and was a pain to run.
 
wing888;4875238; said:
Any updates? So how much % drip per day are u dripping now?

Much better than messing about with a denitrator and adjusting flow etc. As I have used a sulphur based denitrator and was a pain to run.
Click to expand...

Totally agree on the denitrator front. Since I have removed that any my auto top up and water changer I have done away with about 7 plugs and it all looks so neat under there.

UPDATE:

The Nitrate is now hovering around 20ppm (tested daily) and I am allowing 25 gals per day on 300 GAL (UK) tank volume. The weekend water change / gravel vac was no more than 20% water change and it was 20 ppm BEFORE the change.

I think it is likely to stabilise at this rate and I am happy with that. I could up the drip level but do not think it is worth the wasted water.

I also expect the Nitrate level to drop a little after I spring clean the sump and external filter (not at the same time)
 
It is now mid february and I have tested again before the water change and it is 25ppm still. I am now doing 20% manual water change with my sand siphon for the weekend and I will stick to that regime.

Rechecked the tap water and still zero colour 0ppm:nilly:
 
Good news, great to see drip systems are working, now if its combined with plant then we can aim for 0 nitrates
 
Well, My nitrate is 15-20ppm with my Automatic Water Exchange... If I had more than 40-50ppm my Black Arowana have problem with fins (damage and jagged).

Less nitrate = better for your fish !
 
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