Construction Time getting closer less then 2 weeks.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
hybridtheoryd16;2812260; said:
There was a member on here that had several 55's that he was going to drill and did alot of searching about 55's being tempered and he found that all 55's were tempered on all panels. i beleive is was koop171? something is the member name. Hopefully he will see this posting. He tried to drill one and it shattered.
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Yep. I would be 100% positive that it is tempered
 
AGA or Aqueon tanks have tempered bottom glass not all sides. I drilled (6) 55g AGA tanks myself, on the back, no problem. You can shatter regular glass by drilling improperly though.
 
CHOMPERS;2810559; said:
...reguardless of what the internet myth says.
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hybridtheoryd16;2812260; said:
...and he found that all 55's were tempered on all panels...
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And there's the myth.
To say 'all' would imply that there is a conspiracy among the tank manufacturers. As if all of the manufacturers got together and agreed to only use tempered glass on a given size tank. And for that tank they chose the 55g.

An industry isn't going to do that. There has to be a money motivator. If there was a monetary reason to make all 55's all tempered, you would see it carry over to many other tank sizes. For what it's worth, if you look at the big name manufacturer's web sites, they charge extra when they give you the option to have tempered glass.
 
You can test it this way to find out:

1. The surface compression of the tin side of tempered float glass can be measured using a grazing angle surface polarimeter (GASP). This is most easily done on horizontal flat glass, but is often successfully accomplished on vertical glass surfaces.

2. Fully tempered glass will exhibit optical fringes (dark shadow lines) when viewed between two polarizing filters. From the appearance of those fringes, an expert can often estimate the approximate degree of temper and even identify the furnace type used in the tempering process. It is not possible to measure residual stresses in this manner.

3. It is possible for someone with the requisite expertise to assemble a full polariscope by placing two polarizing filters, and other filters on both sides of an installed glass plate. Then, the net stress through the thickness of the plate is measurable. (The filters must be ruled and calibrated so the rotation of various filters can be accurately measured.)

All of the above-mentioned tests are non-destructive. They are generally applicable only to monolithic glass (not insulated or laminated glass where multiple plates of glass and/or other birefringent materials are present.


OR:

A sharp rap with a hammer should tell you if it's tempered or not! :D
 
Well I guess I will be rolling the dice, at worst I'll have to try and find another 55 on sale some where. Ill repost in a week or so on what happend.
 
nfored;2816371; said:
Well I guess I will be rolling the dice, at worst I'll have to try and find another 55 on sale some where. Ill repost in a week or so on what happend.
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Run your fingernail between the panes of glass from the outside at a corner. If you can feel a separation and some silicone, then the tank can be dissassembled to replace a pane (if you have to). I'll keep my fingers crossed.
fingersx.gif




...and don't forget to bring a towel.
towelie.gif
 
Knowdafish;2814854; said:
You can test it this way to find out:

1. The surface compression of the tin side of tempered float glass can be measured using a grazing angle surface polarimeter (GASP). This is most easily done on horizontal flat glass, but is often successfully accomplished on vertical glass surfaces.

2. Fully tempered glass will exhibit optical fringes (dark shadow lines) when viewed between two polarizing filters. From the appearance of those fringes, an expert can often estimate the approximate degree of temper and even identify the furnace type used in the tempering process. It is not possible to measure residual stresses in this manner.

3. It is possible for someone with the requisite expertise to assemble a full polariscope by placing two polarizing filters, and other filters on both sides of an installed glass plate. Then, the net stress through the thickness of the plate is measurable. (The filters must be ruled and calibrated so the rotation of various filters can be accurately measured.)

All of the above-mentioned tests are non-destructive. They are generally applicable only to monolithic glass (not insulated or laminated glass where multiple plates of glass and/or other birefringent materials are present.
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I have several panes of tempered glass (they are labeled tempered) and I'd like to give this a shot. Do you have any additional information or links of more detailed information? I have a really cool surplus shop nearby that has all kinds of polarizing lenses and test equipment. Do you know if there is an ideal EMF that this occurs at?
 
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