That's what it looks like to me, 3.5 ppm according to the level found during the period it was tested.
Cost Effective Water Conditioners
- Thread starter RD.
- Start date
My water report said .2-1.2 ppm off chlorine. That soundsaid like not very much to me. Does I even needs to treat?
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Thanks, RD. This helped me a lot. I just ordered some Seachem Safe. This will save me a lot of money in the long run.
No problem muscle, glad to help.
fishman - hard to say, with chlorine the most important number, is what's coming out of your tap. In your case you certainly don't need to use much in the way of a dechlorinator. And it's possible that you might even get away using none at all, but that would depend on a number of factors, the main one being the level of disinfectant residual coming out of your tap. You should be able to determine that using a quality chlorine test kit. I would personally test each month just to stay on the safe side.
Having said that .....
Both chlorine &/or chloramine can cause long term damage & even death to fish, in some cases even at low levels, especially young fish which are typically the most sensitive to these substances. Free chlorine can cause acute necrosis of gill tissue in fish, the younger the fish the worse it can be. Chlorine also has the potential to wipe out most/all of the bio bacteria in your system. In short chlorine is an oxidizer, that can burn a fishes gills & kill cell tissue, sometimes even at low levels.
The amount of chlorine and or chloramine can vary greatly from one municipality to another, as well as from one tap to another, and can also vary greatly throughout the season. There is no way that anyone on a public forum can possibly attempt to tell anyone what a "safe" amount is unless they have the specs on your local tap water at your user end. Water temp, pH values, the level of organics in your tank, etc can also determine how 'safe' certain levels of known toxic substances such as chlorine can be on fish.
According to Edward Noga, a professor at NC State that is considered an expert in the disease & health of fish, chlorine levels as low as 0.10 mg/l (which is common in many tap water levels) can be accutely fatal in aquaria that has low levels of organics. (as in a new set up) Others have found residual chlorine levels as low as 0.05 mg/l to be toxic to certain species of fish.
There has been a TON of work done in this area over the past few decades, by a number of researchers, such as Tompkins & Tsai (1976) for anyone that is interested in understanding just how toxic both chlorine & chloramine can be in a closed system that contains fish.
Unfortunately the LC50 (survival time) of most tropical species of fish placed under various levels of chlorine/chloramine has yet to be established, but the bottom line is both substances are highly toxic to most aquatic organisms.
From the EPA ....
http://www.epa.gov/chemfact/s_chlori.txt
Personally, even with very low levels of residucal chlorine (and always with chloramine) I would still use at least some water conditioner, such as Seachem Prime, or Safe - just to be on the safe side.
HTH
fishman - hard to say, with chlorine the most important number, is what's coming out of your tap. In your case you certainly don't need to use much in the way of a dechlorinator. And it's possible that you might even get away using none at all, but that would depend on a number of factors, the main one being the level of disinfectant residual coming out of your tap. You should be able to determine that using a quality chlorine test kit. I would personally test each month just to stay on the safe side.
Having said that .....
Both chlorine &/or chloramine can cause long term damage & even death to fish, in some cases even at low levels, especially young fish which are typically the most sensitive to these substances. Free chlorine can cause acute necrosis of gill tissue in fish, the younger the fish the worse it can be. Chlorine also has the potential to wipe out most/all of the bio bacteria in your system. In short chlorine is an oxidizer, that can burn a fishes gills & kill cell tissue, sometimes even at low levels.
The amount of chlorine and or chloramine can vary greatly from one municipality to another, as well as from one tap to another, and can also vary greatly throughout the season. There is no way that anyone on a public forum can possibly attempt to tell anyone what a "safe" amount is unless they have the specs on your local tap water at your user end. Water temp, pH values, the level of organics in your tank, etc can also determine how 'safe' certain levels of known toxic substances such as chlorine can be on fish.
According to Edward Noga, a professor at NC State that is considered an expert in the disease & health of fish, chlorine levels as low as 0.10 mg/l (which is common in many tap water levels) can be accutely fatal in aquaria that has low levels of organics. (as in a new set up) Others have found residual chlorine levels as low as 0.05 mg/l to be toxic to certain species of fish.
There has been a TON of work done in this area over the past few decades, by a number of researchers, such as Tompkins & Tsai (1976) for anyone that is interested in understanding just how toxic both chlorine & chloramine can be in a closed system that contains fish.
Unfortunately the LC50 (survival time) of most tropical species of fish placed under various levels of chlorine/chloramine has yet to be established, but the bottom line is both substances are highly toxic to most aquatic organisms.
From the EPA ....
http://www.epa.gov/chemfact/s_chlori.txt
Personally, even with very low levels of residucal chlorine (and always with chloramine) I would still use at least some water conditioner, such as Seachem Prime, or Safe - just to be on the safe side.
HTH
Good thread.
One thing often misunderstood about CL2 in the water is this: Residual ppm or mg/l numbers posted by a water municipality are based on TDS at the time the water leaves the treatment plant. They take into account how far(approx.) the water has to travel to get to the end consumer. They need the CL2 to remain an active disinfectant until then. The goal is to get the water to your tap with only a bare minimum CL2 residual so that you dont taste chlorine.
My point is, without checking your individual tap for CL2 residual, the posted numbers from your municipality are somewhat arbitrary. The data are often out dated and not entirely accurate. CL2 dosing is a constantly changing process at the treatment facility and residual will rise and fall in response to lab data obtained by the municipality and often operator error.
The best way to determine how much de-chlorinator is needed, one should obtain a CL2 test kit and periodically test their tap water.
Just my 2 cents.
One thing often misunderstood about CL2 in the water is this: Residual ppm or mg/l numbers posted by a water municipality are based on TDS at the time the water leaves the treatment plant. They take into account how far(approx.) the water has to travel to get to the end consumer. They need the CL2 to remain an active disinfectant until then. The goal is to get the water to your tap with only a bare minimum CL2 residual so that you dont taste chlorine.
My point is, without checking your individual tap for CL2 residual, the posted numbers from your municipality are somewhat arbitrary. The data are often out dated and not entirely accurate. CL2 dosing is a constantly changing process at the treatment facility and residual will rise and fall in response to lab data obtained by the municipality and often operator error.
The best way to determine how much de-chlorinator is needed, one should obtain a CL2 test kit and periodically test their tap water.
Just my 2 cents.
That is exactly correct boldtogether, unless the disinfectant being used is chloramine. As an example in our city the level of chloramine is a fixed rate year round, 2 mg/l. That's what it leaves the plant at, and that's the level when the water leaves everyones faucet. It does not easily break down in the manner that chlorine does.
Chlorine is a different story, it begins to break down the moment that it leaves the treatment facility as it comes in contact with bacteria and organics. In a large enough city, the exact level of disinfectant could vary greatly from one end user to the next depending on the distance they are located from the treatment facility.
Chlorine is a different story, it begins to break down the moment that it leaves the treatment facility as it comes in contact with bacteria and organics. In a large enough city, the exact level of disinfectant could vary greatly from one end user to the next depending on the distance they are located from the treatment facility.
Question on usage...
My bottle of Safe says: Chloramine: 5g (1 tsp) to each 250 gallons (removes 4 ppm). My water report said 3.5 ppm.
What would be the best way to treat a bunch of small tanks without wasting the product?
My bottle of Safe says: Chloramine: 5g (1 tsp) to each 250 gallons (removes 4 ppm). My water report said 3.5 ppm.
What would be the best way to treat a bunch of small tanks without wasting the product?
Here is what I'm thinking. Please tell me if I'm accurate.
Total gallons to treat = 65 gallons
Amount of Safe required = ~.25 tsp
Mix .25 tsp of Safe in a one gallon jug.
128oz / 65gal = 1.969230769oz
Add 2oz of mixture per gallon
Total gallons to treat = 65 gallons
Amount of Safe required = ~.25 tsp
Mix .25 tsp of Safe in a one gallon jug.
128oz / 65gal = 1.969230769oz
Add 2oz of mixture per gallon
If this is for the city of Tampa, the 2010 water quality report stated 1.0-3.9 ppm, so short of constantly testing your tap water year round, IMO it would be best to treat for the high end of the scale, which would be 4 ppm.
Total gallons to treat = 65 gallons
Amount of Safe required = ~.25 tsp
Close enough, but to make it more simplistic why not simply mix a batch for each tank as you go along?
That way all you need to be concerned with is how much Safe is required for each tank, and the volume of water in ounces from the pre-mixed solution will be a non issue.
Personally I just sprinkle the required amount of Safe into each tank as they are filling.
Amount of Safe required = ~.25 tsp
Close enough, but to make it more simplistic why not simply mix a batch for each tank as you go along?
That way all you need to be concerned with is how much Safe is required for each tank, and the volume of water in ounces from the pre-mixed solution will be a non issue.
Personally I just sprinkle the required amount of Safe into each tank as they are filling.
