Cycle

[Megan33]

Hi All, This is my first post. I have a 109l tank, with internal filter. Sand, live plants and a few pebbles. I've been cycling for almost 3 weeks using Dr Tim's ammonia method. I also put entire content of Dr Tim's one and only in today.
Ammonia 2ppm
Nitrite 2.0
Nitrate 20.0
I did my first 20% water change before adding one and only in.Do you think I should be doing regular partial water changes?
Also I'm getting quite Abit of algae so only keep lights on for 4 hours aday for the live plants.

 

[skjl47]

Aquarium cycling links





http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/nitrogen_cycle.html

Site Suspended - This site has stepped out for a bit

 

[skjl47]

Ammonia 2ppm
Nitrite 2.0
Nitrate 20.0

Hello; With some nitrates showing up you are basically waiting for the ammonia and nitrites to disappear.

Hello; two suggestions. One is to test the source water for all three. The other is to at some point have some distilled water around to clean the test vials with.

I know nothing of the Dr. Tims one and only so can not comment.

 

[Megan33]

Hi Jeff, I have never done a fish less cycle before so I was continuing to add ammonia everyday. I added Abit too much and this is my results this morning.
I've done a 30% water change and I will test my water source later today.

 

[skjl47]

I've done a 30% water change and I will test my water source later today.

Hello; The test of the source water is to see if it has any nitrate or ammonia of its own. Some tap water is reported to have nitrate which can skew the test kit results.
I also believe some of the water treatment chemicals may show up as slight ammonia in the tap water.

Not sure a water change (WC) is needed during fishless cycle. I think the key is when there are enough of the two types of beneficial bacteria to reduce the ammonia and nitrites to zero. What I think should happen is when you add liquid ammonia the bb are numerous enough to convert it to the less toxic nitrates within a few hours. So if a few hours after adding some ammonia the tests show zero on the ammonia and nitrite with some nitrates then you are ready. That is when a big WC will help just before you add fish.

 

[Megan33]

I've tested my tap water. 0 for each
pH 8,. NH3 0.5,. NO2 0.25,. NO3 0,.
KH 3 drops,.? GH 3 drops?
I don't have any nitrates, not sure if this is good or bad

 

[duanes]

Most tap water coming from a treatment plant in the U.S. will contain 0 ppm nitrate ( or just a trace) and for aquarists this is a good thing.
The only places it might register significantly at all. would be in agricultural areas using ground water, with land in heavy fertilizer use.
With your tap water having a pH of 8, and a moderate alkalinity (GH/KH) it will be important to choose fish that have evolved to fit your tap water parameters.
Hard water species from any of the the African rift lakes, species from Central America, or South Americans from west of the Andes mountain range would be good choices.
Those species from the soft, low pH (below 7) Amazonian river system, or some West African, or Asian soft water species might be poor choices.
If you do a little research about those you are interested in before buying, will help determine your initial success, many species will be adaptable to your water, some are not.

 

[Megan33]

Good to know! And thanks for clarifying my GH and KH is moderate.
I'm in the Uk. Also I've done this fishless cycle for the first time because I'm wanting Coldwater fish and have never kept them before. I'm going to get Oranda's and a pearlscale.
I understand they get big, so will be upgrading them to Rio 450. They will love the length more, something that is lacking with my current tank.

 

[Megan33]

Today NH3 2.0, NO2 4.0, NO3 40.0
This seemed like a spike to me so I did a 20% water change and wiped down the glass .

I also bought a UV sterilizer.
Im Abit frustrated now and I can understand why this is the stage, people start making mistakes out of sheer frustration and the patience that is needed!

 

[skjl47]

They will love the length more, something that is lacking with my current tank.

Hello; having already an established tank means you can shorten the cycle time considerably. An established tank should have surfaces loaded with the beneficial bacteria (bb) you can rob and place into the new tank. Unless there is disease or parasites in the established tank I see no reason to not take advantage of the option. The new tank can still continue with a fish less cycle process, the adding of bb loaded material will only seed the new tank and make the process a bit quicker.

This seemed like a spike to me so I did a 20% water change and wiped down the glass .

Hello; I hope I have this correct and do suggest those with better understanding will correct any mistakes in my next comments. You are doing a fish-less which by definition means no fish are in the tank and that you are adding liquid ammonia. The purpose of liquid ammonia is to provide nutrients needed by the bb we want to get established. My take is you do not need to do any WC during the process as long as no fish are present. The WC will dilute the ammonia and likely just prolong the process.

If fish were present and ammonia and/or nitrites were in the water then yes a WC would be suggested as these two things are very toxic.

I am still a bit puzzled by the test results. That you have nitrates should indicate there are both types of bb present in the new tank. I think the ideal scenario is at some point you will add some liquid ammonia and some hours later the test results will show 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites. There will also be some nitrates which you have.
The idea is a decent population of the bb will convert the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrates in a few hours. In an established tank holding live fish which is fully cycled the conversion of ammonia and nitrite is an ongoing and dynamic process. There will be a build up of nitrate which is a clue we use to determine a WC schedule.