**** these dats look like stable now. man you need to wait for richard to come cos he is professional aquatic expert in this uk
Datnioides undecimradiatus - PLEASE HELP!!
- Thread starter Auricom1
- Start date
i think i agree with ade cos i can see this picture( your water condition is not good atm so you need to have a water change and get another external filter)
Hi,
thanks for your thoughts on water quality.
Tank water is crystal clear. It has been since day one! i test every time a do a water change, (which is 50% per week), and then after two days to ensure water parameters are correct. Salt is measured to the gram, water changes are exactly same amount each time, etc. i am VERY careful. Filter is easily coping as i NEVER have Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia, Phosphates, etc. Filter turns tank water over 9 times an hour. A pond pump also oxygenates water and turns it over a similar amount. Current stock is low. All fish are juvenile/sub adult, and i will be switching over to a bigger tank at some point.
Water is so clear i can photograph a fish by pointing camera at one end of tank to photograph a fish at the other side - thats 5 feet of water.
I really do appreciate your comments, but i know water quality isn't an issue
Cheers,
Mike
thanks for your thoughts on water quality.
Tank water is crystal clear. It has been since day one! i test every time a do a water change, (which is 50% per week), and then after two days to ensure water parameters are correct. Salt is measured to the gram, water changes are exactly same amount each time, etc. i am VERY careful. Filter is easily coping as i NEVER have Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia, Phosphates, etc. Filter turns tank water over 9 times an hour. A pond pump also oxygenates water and turns it over a similar amount. Current stock is low. All fish are juvenile/sub adult, and i will be switching over to a bigger tank at some point.
Water is so clear i can photograph a fish by pointing camera at one end of tank to photograph a fish at the other side - thats 5 feet of water.
I really do appreciate your comments, but i know water quality isn't an issue
Cheers,
Mike
Are they feeding mike?
A friend of mine not too long ago had an large ST. It developed a boil just like your picture. The boil was full of puss which exposed and leaked out. He treated with tons of salt and high temp. It had stopped eating for several weeks. It was left with a little crater near its head. Soon after it died.
I think your water is ok, as your discuss would react sharply to bad water.
Again, I didn't thi k u could use marine salt I'm tropical.
What is your temp?
A friend of mine not too long ago had an large ST. It developed a boil just like your picture. The boil was full of puss which exposed and leaked out. He treated with tons of salt and high temp. It had stopped eating for several weeks. It was left with a little crater near its head. Soon after it died.
I think your water is ok, as your discuss would react sharply to bad water.
Again, I didn't thi k u could use marine salt I'm tropical.
What is your temp?
Hi
thanks,
i have been on the recommended site and read all of the info. I am hoping Alfon will get back to me. I have also forwarded info on to Sparsholt collage, one of the experts there is doing a P.M. on dat which i lost last week. I am hoping he will have more info. Does anyone know if antibiotics have been tried? Now that i know what is going on this may be the last resort for them. All other measures have failed. Water temp is 28C. i have tried massive doses of salt, and temp to 30C, but i lost another dat. The salt was too much for the more ill fish. Hopefully P.M. on dead fish will confirm that Dat disease is bacterial, in which case expert is ideally qualified to suggest which antibiotic to use, and at what dose.
Cheers,
Mike
thanks,
i have been on the recommended site and read all of the info. I am hoping Alfon will get back to me. I have also forwarded info on to Sparsholt collage, one of the experts there is doing a P.M. on dat which i lost last week. I am hoping he will have more info. Does anyone know if antibiotics have been tried? Now that i know what is going on this may be the last resort for them. All other measures have failed. Water temp is 28C. i have tried massive doses of salt, and temp to 30C, but i lost another dat. The salt was too much for the more ill fish. Hopefully P.M. on dead fish will confirm that Dat disease is bacterial, in which case expert is ideally qualified to suggest which antibiotic to use, and at what dose.
Cheers,
Mike
I doubt salt killed it off.
More like what ever is causing those cysts to develop.
It's good your u have that source to help try to diagnose the problem. I'm sure I can speak for others for anything we can learn more about this , and help try to prevent/treat it if ever happens.
More like what ever is causing those cysts to develop.
It's good your u have that source to help try to diagnose the problem. I'm sure I can speak for others for anything we can learn more about this , and help try to prevent/treat it if ever happens.
Hi Ade,
i agree with you completely. If i/we can get to the bottom of this i plan to share the knowledge. i used to be one of countries top exotics breeders, and i was always happy to share my knowledge and experience. I will do the same in this instance too. I firmly believe that the best way to advance the captive husbandry of any animal is to freely share information as and when it becomes available. i am sorry to say that there is much still secrecy within the exotics sector, which does the animals/keepers/hobby and industry no good at all... .we are all in this together!!! Not for the good of ourselves, but for the good of those animals that rely on us for survival!!
i agree with you completely. If i/we can get to the bottom of this i plan to share the knowledge. i used to be one of countries top exotics breeders, and i was always happy to share my knowledge and experience. I will do the same in this instance too. I firmly believe that the best way to advance the captive husbandry of any animal is to freely share information as and when it becomes available. i am sorry to say that there is much still secrecy within the exotics sector, which does the animals/keepers/hobby and industry no good at all... .we are all in this together!!! Not for the good of ourselves, but for the good of those animals that rely on us for survival!!
I have seen you mention that all water parameters are fine but just out of intrest what is your ph ?
As for talking to experts they can't be experts at all as anyone who know about tigers or dat if that's what you want to call them would know what the problem was from a description like you have given or a photo
You have been given the wrong advice by Richard at wharf
I don't know who told you to keep the thin bars in RO water but that was the wrong advice to begin with
Out of all the tigers around thin bars don't like salt the most infect they like the water softer than other tigers
The infestation you have is one of the worst I have seen and it was probably started by the use of RO and not the right minerals added or it was already on the fish when you got them but the use of RO brought it out faster
I know a few people who have had this problem but just one or two spots per fish and the way they have all treated them was to take the fish out and lance the lumps and then dab with a cotton bud neat esha 2000 onto the lanced spot then place the fish back into the tank that has a strong dose of esha 2000 added treat the tank as per instructions for 7-10 days
But continue to take the fish out and dab daily and push out any pus you may see
I know 3 people who have treated like this and and the lumps went away only to return 6 months later at which point the same treatment was repeated and 2 of the fish never got the lumps again the other one died as the lump was to close to the eye to treat
This treatment is not a option if you have let the lumps progress to more than 1-2 lumps and the treatment I mentioned was carried out on fish above 12 inch
The good thing with tigers is they are very easy to work with once out of the water as they just push up the dorsal fin and don't flap around like other fish
I also know other people who have spent thousands ££ in vets fee trying to cure this problem with no luck
As for doing well to get you thin bar
It's not the case for all thin bars to die small is total rubbish I have one of 10.5 inch now and don't expect it to die any time soon
What you fish have if a very rare case and doesn't happen that often someone said in the past that all tigers have this problem inside them but it takes something to set it off I thought this was total rubbish
You may get lucky and save one or two but I'm sorry to say I doesn't look good
You should have posted for help soon as you need to act real fast with this one like with one or two lumps and it's very hard to stop
Fish shops don't have all the answers to all fish problems no matter how good the rep and it's best to come to a section of a forum like this which are just dedicated to a certain type of fish
I wish you all the luck
As for talking to experts they can't be experts at all as anyone who know about tigers or dat if that's what you want to call them would know what the problem was from a description like you have given or a photo
You have been given the wrong advice by Richard at wharf
I don't know who told you to keep the thin bars in RO water but that was the wrong advice to begin with
Out of all the tigers around thin bars don't like salt the most infect they like the water softer than other tigers
The infestation you have is one of the worst I have seen and it was probably started by the use of RO and not the right minerals added or it was already on the fish when you got them but the use of RO brought it out faster
I know a few people who have had this problem but just one or two spots per fish and the way they have all treated them was to take the fish out and lance the lumps and then dab with a cotton bud neat esha 2000 onto the lanced spot then place the fish back into the tank that has a strong dose of esha 2000 added treat the tank as per instructions for 7-10 days
But continue to take the fish out and dab daily and push out any pus you may see
I know 3 people who have treated like this and and the lumps went away only to return 6 months later at which point the same treatment was repeated and 2 of the fish never got the lumps again the other one died as the lump was to close to the eye to treat
This treatment is not a option if you have let the lumps progress to more than 1-2 lumps and the treatment I mentioned was carried out on fish above 12 inch
The good thing with tigers is they are very easy to work with once out of the water as they just push up the dorsal fin and don't flap around like other fish
I also know other people who have spent thousands ££ in vets fee trying to cure this problem with no luck
As for doing well to get you thin bar
It's not the case for all thin bars to die small is total rubbish I have one of 10.5 inch now and don't expect it to die any time soon
What you fish have if a very rare case and doesn't happen that often someone said in the past that all tigers have this problem inside them but it takes something to set it off I thought this was total rubbish
You may get lucky and save one or two but I'm sorry to say I doesn't look good
You should have posted for help soon as you need to act real fast with this one like with one or two lumps and it's very hard to stop
Fish shops don't have all the answers to all fish problems no matter how good the rep and it's best to come to a section of a forum like this which are just dedicated to a certain type of fish
I wish you all the luck
