Try running two sumps, one with slower turnover to give the bacteria more time. Not 100% it'll work but in theory it makes sense lol. I know some of better mechanical filters aren't the best with biological because the flow is too much.
DIY bio filters for large loads
- Thread starter HoundsNTrout
- Start date
Also, I'd definitely add a larger filter to increase your bio capacity. I had around a 40 gallon sump on my 180 with a few small fish so I can imagine you're well over capacity with so many fish. Do some research on what media has the most surface area. It sounds like you need to increase capacity either way as you have food for the bacteria to eat (nitrites), they just need the habitat to thrive in order to do so.
Thanks. I think my 55G might do the trick since the 30G tote almost does it. Not quite though.
I'm not the most physical thinking guy either, I cant figure out if the drum is on the ground and water in the tank is a big higher, if I make the outlet of the filter near the top of drum where I want the top of water line to be will that force water up and out into my tank? Should right?
Will the lower bacteria be getting sufficient oxygen this way. Or do most have the inlet pipe to the filter going down into the drum to the bottom? Then spray around down there or circulate then outlet on top like before.
Still uncertain. THanks. But this might just be enough.
I was always told to have my bio filters taking in the same amount of water per hour as the tank itself. ? But that's assuming the surface area is big enough I guess eh?
I'm not the most physical thinking guy either, I cant figure out if the drum is on the ground and water in the tank is a big higher, if I make the outlet of the filter near the top of drum where I want the top of water line to be will that force water up and out into my tank? Should right?
Will the lower bacteria be getting sufficient oxygen this way. Or do most have the inlet pipe to the filter going down into the drum to the bottom? Then spray around down there or circulate then outlet on top like before.
Still uncertain. THanks. But this might just be enough.
I was always told to have my bio filters taking in the same amount of water per hour as the tank itself. ? But that's assuming the surface area is big enough I guess eh?
Typically, turnover is a few times more than the tank's capacity. I would bring the inlet through the top of the 55 drum and then a spray bar over the media from the top. Have the media raised above the pump and have the outlet through the bottom side and back into the tank. It may take a more powerful pump, but probably not much if the pipe length remains the same. Does that make sense?
It would be infinitely helpful if you could post pics of your setup too.
That's what my original idea was but I'm trying to ovoid raising the 55G drum too far off the ground is the idea. So JUST enough to be above the pump in the tank? I mean I have a few sump pumps but they might be overkill I think. Current pumps are claimed to be 600GPH but after running the piping and up, they come out half that, about 300GPH.
Guess I'll just try and fiddle around til it works.
One thing is the outlet pipe has to be same size as inlet correct? Otherwise all media doesn't get submerged.
Might have to add a ball valve to control the level of water in drum?
Bio Filtration is simple... more is better when ever possible, More surface area of the bio media what ever it is (Back in the day we would use the pot scrubbers from the dollar store since you couldn't beat the price for the amount of surface area you could get vs say whiffle balls ;-) ) you are running a rapidly growing stock of fish into a system that will be constantly changing it's bacteria levels.
ideal setup would be that you have a way to maintain a constant load on the bacteria, this will allow the time for the bacterial growth to "normalize". How this is done in a "farming" situation is to link as many systems as possible into one big system. when you do this you will allow the filtration systems on the tanks that are "Over populated with a filtration system that is to small" to feed the bacteria in the "Fry tanks". There are of course risks when you do this since linking your filtration systems together could also cause infections to pass through the entire system. It is easier to keep 3000 gallons level than it is to keep 300 or 30 gallons level. More is Better... more contact time with the bio media is better... Having said all this it doesn't mean that it is best for you sometimes what works for you is completely different than anyone else due to things like feedings (amount of food, type of food, quantities etc.) small variations in water temp and the swings that are happening during a water change... you will often see in hatcheries that they will have an agitation filter with bubblers on the bottom of the filter and a floating media like bio balls filled in above the bubblers as it will stimulate a different type of bacterial growth.
Photos of the system would help but more information would be needed if you want the best solution advice from the people here.
ideal setup would be that you have a way to maintain a constant load on the bacteria, this will allow the time for the bacterial growth to "normalize". How this is done in a "farming" situation is to link as many systems as possible into one big system. when you do this you will allow the filtration systems on the tanks that are "Over populated with a filtration system that is to small" to feed the bacteria in the "Fry tanks". There are of course risks when you do this since linking your filtration systems together could also cause infections to pass through the entire system. It is easier to keep 3000 gallons level than it is to keep 300 or 30 gallons level. More is Better... more contact time with the bio media is better... Having said all this it doesn't mean that it is best for you sometimes what works for you is completely different than anyone else due to things like feedings (amount of food, type of food, quantities etc.) small variations in water temp and the swings that are happening during a water change... you will often see in hatcheries that they will have an agitation filter with bubblers on the bottom of the filter and a floating media like bio balls filled in above the bubblers as it will stimulate a different type of bacterial growth.
Photos of the system would help but more information would be needed if you want the best solution advice from the people here.
Very good response, thank you.
That was in the back of my head, to make a much larger system and hook the 3 tanks together.
Rather than 3 separate 55G drums. AS I look back now, the 25 or 30 Gallon totes I currently have arent' even close to big enough for what I have been doing.
I normally raise 2000 eggs and end up with 1000 to 1500 making it to past the 2 inch stage into the 300 or 500 Gallon tanks. THen I will raise them normally until 4 inches.
I would like to try some grow-outs to 8 to 10 inches but smaller numbers of course or I have a 5000 Gallon tank I may start up soon after I get all the bugs out. Its only been 3 years.
Think you know the nitrogen cycle until raising 4 batches of trout in 50 to 60 degree water. LOL. Yeah it gets weird. But so am I so I'm all game for how to improve my opp and get it rolling much more efficiently.
Every situation is different yes but there's gotta be some sort of 'general rule' on how big surface area based on how many pounds of fish?
I was very sucessful in my first ever taking my own eggs from brood stock so I'm happy about that but I can't have this periodic nitrites that linger for longer for a day.
Also in totes, raises another whole situation of water movement. You can't get that nice circular motion. But I think that only helps with debris being collected nicely in one area.
This is not an open system. It is pretty much recycled system with like I said 25 to 50% water changes in 24 hours.
Artesian well water ph of 8, water temps coming out of well don't change much 48 to 50.
Tanks are insulated and in Winter I have submersible heater keeps temps at 55 degrees.
Summer time I have DYI chiller maintains 58 degrees .
Water pumped in is sprayed over a gravel pail since we had problems this Summer with supersaturation of Nitrogen. Problem solved there.
Running stream water I dont' want to do. TOo many unknowns there.
Thanks for the help. Will post some pics later.
The surface area of your filter is much more important than depth in terms of biological recruitment. The depth of your filter system will allow different bacteria to become established. There is some evidence that deeper filter beds that actually form anaerobic pockets house some of the most useful denitrifying bacteria and will allow for actual nitrate removal. Of course the addition of cold tolerent plants can really benefit your system also.
