DIY Filter Question
- Thread starter kntrygrl4lyfe
- Start date
Overflow and sump, are my favorite filter. They have so many options and add volume to the tank.
For mechanical filtration I would do double or triple. Filter socks on the drains and filter pad on the drip plate.
You could do a double drip plate. Each time you go with a finer filter. 300-400 for the socks. 200-300 for the upper layer, and 100-200 for the last layer. This should keep your bio media clear of detritus.It also allows you to pull out media and still leave the whole system running without fear of getting turds on the bio media.
For mechanical filtration I would do double or triple. Filter socks on the drains and filter pad on the drip plate.
You could do a double drip plate. Each time you go with a finer filter. 300-400 for the socks. 200-300 for the upper layer, and 100-200 for the last layer. This should keep your bio media clear of detritus.It also allows you to pull out media and still leave the whole system running without fear of getting turds on the bio media.
Hi Nataliekntrygrl4lyfe;1320524; said:
Your tank bottom is tempered glass and will shatter into a bazillion pieces. (I have a theory on drilling tempered glass but I haven't tested it yet.) It is quite rare to have a tank that is all tempered. You can usually drill through the back of the tank. If you don't want to drill it, you can use a box type HOB overflow or the DIY overflow in the sticky section (it was one of the links Dr. Joe posted above).
CHOMPERS;1320869; said:Hi Natalie
Your tank bottom is tempered glass and will shatter into a bazillion pieces. (I have a theory on drilling tempered glass but I haven't tested it yet.) It is quite rare to have a tank that is all tempered. You can usually drill through the back of the tank. If you don't want to drill it, you can use a box type HOB overflow or the DIY overflow in the sticky section (it was one of the links Dr. Joe posted above).
I'd love to hear about it. Do share
You gonna heat treat the bottom first? That's the only thing I can think of...
kntrygrl4lyfe;1320524; said:
The last link is for overflows and them you pump the water back to the tank.
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cvermeulen;1320923; said:I'd love to hear about it. Do share
Heat treating = tempered.
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CHOMPERS;1320869; said:Hi Natalie
Your tank bottom is tempered glass and will shatter into a bazillion pieces. (I have a theory on drilling tempered glass but I haven't tested it yet.) It is quite rare to have a tank that is all tempered. You can usually drill through the back of the tank. If you don't want to drill it, you can use a box type HOB overflow or the DIY overflow in the sticky section (it was one of the links Dr. Joe posted above).
So how would I know if I could drill the top? I should re read that sticker lol.
Dr Joe;1321373; said:
Well, no, not exactly. Tempering is a form of heat treating, but it's not the only form. Annealing is also heat treating to remove internal stresses to the bottom won't shatter when drilled. I am not sure how you would do this in an assembled tank though; hence my interest.
cvermeulen;1323411; said:
I see that your materials engineering class really paid off
Glass also heat stresses when exposed to high temperatures. The whole pane would need to be annealed so that it doesn't shatter in the cooling process. The annealing temperature is up around the melting temperature, and would require a glass furnace. I am not that handy
To understand my thoughts, let me get everyone caught up: Tempered glass is actually prestressed glass. All the stresses are uniform and are in the direction of the plane of the glass. Both surfaces are in tension while the center is in compression (only in the direction of the plane of the glass, not surface to surface).
Total failure occurs with the pane shattering into a bazillion tiny pieces. This is due to the opposing stresses of the surfaces and the center. When a fracture is introduced into the glass, the surface tension pulls the end of the fracture open, propogating the crack further down the plane of the glass. This continues until the pane is only tiny pieces.
Those who have attempted to drill tempered glass have reported that failure did not occur until reaching the other side. In other words, they have demonstrated that it is possible to drill from the tension area to the compression area of the glass, but it is not possible to drill from the compression to the tension area.
So the simple solution is to drill half way and then flip the glass over. Extreme care must be taken at punch-out so not to cause chips or fractures.
I have a pane of tempered that is awaiting the wrath of my theory. I'll attempt to drill it tonight if I can get a big sheet of plastic. I'll also take pictures.
