standing water isnt really as powerful as people think it is. the psi isnt overly scary when the math is done. silicone to glass only has a separation strength in the 200-400 psi range and diminishes with time and most tanks still last 10 years +. wood screws and a good adhesive ( i prefer PL premium) has a much higher psi rating. acrylic sits between 2200-2500 at the seams when done right. the only advice i can give you looking at the pictures is find a way to protect the bare wood. it doesnt look like its ground rated so water will swell it and weaken it pretty fast. it look plenty strong to me. even the best built tanks will bow a bit so expect some bowing but dont let it scare you.
Diy raised pond 1062 gallons
- Thread starter Newandoverthetop
- Start date
Pond liners are not really in my particular wheelhouse, not terribly experienced with them, but I think youre in good shape to continue with your plan....when it comes time to fill it just do it incrementally. See what it looks like half full, add 100 gallons the next day, check again and so forth. If youre seeing any deflection it should not be too difficult to engineer some bracing into your design....or maybe youll just have a 700-800 gallon pond instead of 1000+.
The key element i see in the example picture you showed is that upright external brace right in the middle span of the tank. It looks to me like youre planning to install several like that around but as others have mentioned they would be best utilized fastened into the floor panel/lip surrounding the tank.
If you want to beef up your fastenings, look into headlok or timberlok lag bolts. They come in lengths up to 8", corrosion resistant coating, far superior in strength than your run of the mill deck screws. You need an impact driver to install though. I would use something like these in the critical fastenings around the middle braces if you can.
The key element i see in the example picture you showed is that upright external brace right in the middle span of the tank. It looks to me like youre planning to install several like that around but as others have mentioned they would be best utilized fastened into the floor panel/lip surrounding the tank.
If you want to beef up your fastenings, look into headlok or timberlok lag bolts. They come in lengths up to 8", corrosion resistant coating, far superior in strength than your run of the mill deck screws. You need an impact driver to install though. I would use something like these in the critical fastenings around the middle braces if you can.
It is untreated lumber but I figgured since I'm using a liner and indoors that it would be ok?
What would you recomend to protect it paint/stain/ thompsons waterseal?
I used loctite pl 3x seems like pretty tough stuff.
Thank you for your insight!
I do plan for the vertical braces to tie into the bottom lip I was proud of my idead of the bottom lip to give more to bite into and felt the flat 2x6 should beef up the bottom bow resistance atleast a little bit.
I had planned to use #10 ×2 1/2 deckscrews for attaching the vertical and horizontal bracing just because I don't want to shoot out the bottom of the flat 2x6 being only 1.5in thick. As well as the 2x10s they will fasten to only being 1.5 in thick as well don't want to poke through and have screw points inside to poke the liner.
Side thought I plan on using heavy amounts of loctite pl 3x on the bracing as well not sure how much it helps but at this point just trying to build as securely as I can.
I would go the long 2x6 route as this is sturdier than the multiple short 2x10s (or at least it is in my head). As mentioned, you will get some bowing. I built something very similar inside my fish house (shed), insulated and approx 11ftx7ftx4ft deep (38” water depth) and the pond after 10 years now makes the front wall of my shed bow. This is due to the wood rotting over time due to a) spillages, b) leaks (not so much) but mainly c) condensation due to it being a hot room in a cold climate (uk). Spill proofing the wood now (if you need to) is 1000 times easier than in years to come.
As for the floor. Water will find its level, the only issue is aesthetics and what it looks like depending how much the floor slopes.Ie. How much liner is showing at one end when the other is full.
Of course a bigger factor with the concrete is how thick and how sturdy it is, as your full pond will weigh anything from 4000-4500kg so 4.5 tonne .
As for the floor. Water will find its level, the only issue is aesthetics and what it looks like depending how much the floor slopes.Ie. How much liner is showing at one end when the other is full.
Of course a bigger factor with the concrete is how thick and how sturdy it is, as your full pond will weigh anything from 4000-4500kg so 4.5 tonne .
Well glad to see I'm not the only one that thinks the 2x6 route might be stronger for the horizontal bracing the one down side I see with that setup is the vertical braces not being able to be screwed into the bottom lip of my build but the 2x6 could still tie into it.
Well you answered a question I hadn't even asked lol! I had wondered if I should have it close/touching the back wall of my garage or have it spaced a couple inches sounds like the much smarter bet is to space it.
I beleive my concrete will hold this is a newer garage can't remember how thick for sure the concrete pad is for sure but deffintly 1ft or more.
And I can live with a uneven water line if that's the worst that comes from my unlevel floor just want to make sure I'm covering all bases and think of everything.
I made sure to get a firestone 45mil epdm liner and even got a geotextile underlay as well I'm trying to be as foolproof/failsafe as I can.
being inside will definitely increase its lifespan. but they will see water here and there when doing up keep and fish splashing etc. any kind of wood sealer would be fine and increase longevity.
Very cool! Deadpool just did a build like this seems to be an awesome way. Going to look great when it’s finished!
Awesome build! Can’t wait to see it come together! I’d recommend foam around the sides as well for insulation and protection.
here is a link to my similar build.
www.monsterfishkeepers.com
here is a link to my similar build.
2000 gallon indoor Build
Agree with Russ. To me, it's about aesthetics, no danger in function or safety.
www.monsterfishkeepers.com
Hey sorry everyone for the lack of updates but I've got alot done I'm now out the stage of putting some water in I'll get more and better pictures once my garage is reranged as it is a war zone in here currently. There was lots of hassles and unexpected issues through the build process. Alot of it was caused by one of two things.
A. I learned wood is never truly flat straight or square LOL.
B. my liner overhang and especially the corners.
Between those 2 things lots of stuff didn't exactly go together or sit as flat as I hoped.
But on a positive note it does seem solid so far so hopefully they are just cosmetic issues I will get pictures in detail soon.
Doing a half fill now so far so good thanks everyone for all the helps and ideas along the way!
A. I learned wood is never truly flat straight or square LOL.
B. my liner overhang and especially the corners.
Between those 2 things lots of stuff didn't exactly go together or sit as flat as I hoped.
But on a positive note it does seem solid so far so hopefully they are just cosmetic issues I will get pictures in detail soon.
Doing a half fill now so far so good thanks everyone for all the helps and ideas along the way!
