Diy stand... sucks

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
:nilly:I dont understand why simming a corner of a tank is a bad idea when we can use cinder blocks (corners of tanks). Confusing
 
U dont like rubber matts or foam uner glass tanks. Eventually it has to compress and press against the bottom pane
When I did mine I just cut the foam into 3/4” strips and put them only between the trim and the stand. I used painters tape to tape them to the stand then had someone help me sit the tank right on top of them then yanked the tape off
 
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Don't beat yourself up about it, I always blame slightly bent or twisted lumber from the wood yard when any of my stands are a bit skewed. But in this case it just looks like shoddy workmanship to me! :grinyes:

On a more serious note, I once had a stand where one corner area was down slightly. I didn't know until I threw the ply on top, screwed it down and then got the level on it. All I did then was take the ply back off and shim between the top of the stand and the ply, just directly on the corner and then some extra thin shims a little out from the corner. I threw the ply back on top, screwed it down and it was fine.

Is that ply on top of your stand that you've already painted black, I can't tell. If it is and you haven't filled in the sunken screw holes with filler, you may be able to do something similar.
 
Bed the whole trim to the stand with black silicone. Tool it off by hand, and let it dry 24 hours. Call it done.
 
What kind of saw are you working with? I also agree no need for foam when the tank already has trim.

I think you could slide some shims in for sure. Right under the stands top. Would help to see some pictures of the whole stand but that doesnt look terrible.
 
:nilly:I dont understand why simming a corner of a tank is a bad idea when we can use cinder blocks (corners of tanks). Confusing
I guess you could get away with it. I know for glass tanks they say it stresses the tank and is not good. Acrylic is probably more able to endure unequal stress. On large tanks you are talking 2000 to 3000 lbs. And more if they are bigger.
But...
The last thing I would do is suggest something and you end up with a cracked tank!
 
U dont like rubber matts or foam uner glass tanks. Eventually it has to compress and press against the bottom pane
I guess I think of it this way, if you put something heavy on a tilted table with a foam mat under it do you really think this object will magically level out? Like you say, the mat will compress and essentially just be one big shim.
 
The size of tank would help... I've seen smaller tanks completely out of level full of water for a long time with no problem (not saying its good)
I've never used foam or rubber Matt's
I guess I think of it this way, if you put something heavy on a tilted table with a foam mat under it do you really think this object will magically level out? Like you say, the mat will compress and essentially just be one big shim.
I didnt mean matt or foam to level it out but to take stress off of one part off the tank.. a shim your placing weight on 1 small area a matt it distribute throughout the whole tank... it may even slightly level out the tank... I can tell by his picture how far out the whole tank is... I asked what size the tank is and dont think hes responded to that... different if its 55 gallons or 300
 
Shims are OK if done well. I mean they can be safe, but they look like crap.

Mats and styrofoam are an illusion. They can look OK, fill the gaps & may distribute stress a little more than a shim, but can not give uniform loading. They are not for rimmed tanks. Bad application.

Real uniform loading is never achieved except by lapping or a setting bed.
High pressure Valves get lapped. High pressure construction gets a setting bed.
In the real world, heavy things that need uniform bearing are often set on a setting bed.

Since before the great Pharaohs, it was the best way.
 
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