DIY Steel stand design.

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
julsy;2931711; said:
didnt realize you were using box steel :D


Yeah, thats why I placed the gussets where I did. I figured it is plenty strong with that size structural tubing, especially since its only a 125 gallon. I tried to minimize the amount of steel while still having it overbuilt and braced well.
 
zennzzo;2931706; said:
This is MY diy steel stand...it's for my new 225g and it is built with .120x2x2

I cut and welded it my self...

it is designed to hold 2000lbs...you might have overtaken me in the overkill dept with your design... ;)

View attachment 340449

you can see it here...
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=222865

Very nice! My welding skills suck unfortunately, but I have a lot of contacts through work so I should be able to do this for not too much. If you don't mind me asking how much did the steel cost you? Did you use stainless? I havent read through the thread you linked yet, sorry if the answers are in there already.
 
BarroomHero;2931643; said:
So I have decided to make a steel stand for my 125gal, I can get the steel through work so I am just going to cut it all to size and have it welded. I am going to use 2x2x.120 HSS. Let me know how the design looks, I drew it up pretty quick.

You are using way more material than you need. For starters, you only need 4 legs. You dont need any of the three cross pieces in your top/bottom view. You could use one like zenz did for spacing and twisting if itll make you feel warm and fuzzy, but its not necessary. You dont need a frame around the bottom. And there is no reason for you to have the diagonal brace on the sides go from the top to the bottom, make them the same as on the front and back. So each of the four legs will have two "gussets" at 45 degrees and all the same length.

You could copy zenz's design, however the piece on the bottom back of zenz's stand is redundant and unnecessary.
 
IITUFFTOBEATII;2931770; said:
You are using way more material than you need. For starters, you only need 4 legs. You dont need any of the three cross pieces in your top/bottom view. You could use one like zenz did for spacing and twisting if itll make you feel warm and fuzzy, but its not necessary. You dont need a frame around the bottom. And there is no reason for you to have the diagonal brace on the sides go from the top to the bottom, make them the same as on the front and back. So each of the four legs will have two "gussets" at 45 degrees and all the same length.

Yeah I knew it was a little overkill. Here is a "lighter" version. It's still overkill probably, but the stand is going to be kinda tall considering the width, so I just want to make sure its sturdy and stable.

Steel stand 3.JPG
 
BarroomHero;2931802; said:
Yeah I knew it was a little overkill. Here is a "lighter" version. It's still overkill probably, but the stand is going to be kinda tall considering the width, so I just want to make sure its sturdy and stable.

If you use the diagonals like you show then you dont need the bottom frame. and for a 125 you dont need the legs in the center. My 500 stand is built with nearly the same size steel, only the wall thickness is greater, has only 4 legs. I prefer the chevron bracing on the front and back, but you dont need it for a 125.
Picture 002.jpg
Picture 011.jpg

In the end, you have to use what will let you sleep at night. Your design will def handle the tank.
 
IITUFFTOBEATII;2931869; said:
If you use the diagonals like you show then you dont need the bottom frame. and for a 125 you dont need the legs in the center. My 500 stand is built with nearly the same size steel, only the wall thickness is greater, has only 4 legs. I prefer the chevron bracing on the front and back, but you dont need it for a 125.
View attachment 340467
View attachment 340459

In the end, you have to use what will let you sleep at night. Your design will def handle the tank.


True, but I'd rather do it overkill. I may change up the design some more, it kinda depends on how much the steel is gonna cost me.
 
BarroomHero;2937088; said:
One more question. Would it be better for the frame of the tank to sit on the middle of the steel tubes, or does it not matter?
My tank is 72 x 30 and the stand is 72x30 and the plywood is 72.5x30.5 and the foam is 72x30...but my tank is acrylic...
You still want to put down plywood if you are running glass...IMO
 
zennzzo;2937098; said:
My tank is 72 x 30 and the stand is 72x30 and the plywood is 72.5x30.5 and the foam is 72x30...but my tank is acrylic...
You still want to put down plywood if you are running glass...IMO

Thanks. I had this idea that the load would be better supported/distributed if I placed the edge of the frame (this is a glass tank with the black plastic frame) along the center of the steel tube, I think I am way over thinking/over designing this lol. I may still do that just so the stand has a little extra width.
 
BarroomHero;2937113; said:
Thanks. I had this idea that the load would be better supported/distributed if I placed the edge of the frame (this is a glass tank with the black plastic frame) along the center of the steel tube, I think I am way over thinking/over designing this lol. I may still do that just so the stand has a little extra width.
Yup...you are only supporting about 1000lbs plus tank and gear...the stand will support the plywood that your tank will set on, so no worries, just build the stand with the same dimensions as the tank...

Check out the stand on Gr8's 360 on the 1st post of this thead...
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88487&highlight=phullTank57
 
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