DIY Sump Filter
- Thread starter sparker18
- Start date
[quote\]Sorry for my ignorance, but what is the reason for the baffle(s)?[/quote]
Good Question....I kinda followed a design that I had seen at the LFS, in other words I have no idea. I was gonna put in 2 baffles right before the pump about an inch apart and put in a water polishing pad, but I scrapped that idea.
Good Question....I kinda followed a design that I had seen at the LFS, in other words I have no idea. I was gonna put in 2 baffles right before the pump about an inch apart and put in a water polishing pad, but I scrapped that idea.
sparker18;681464; said:
Good Question....I kinda followed a design that I had seen at the LFS, in other words I have no idea. I was gonna put in 2 baffles right before the pump about an inch apart and put in a water polishing pad, but I scrapped that idea.[/quote]
The baffles are used to 1) raise the water level in the 'wet' area for longer dwell time, 2) calm or slow the water flow, 3) create a space for a refugium, 4)isolate the return pump, 5) 'baffle' people that don't understand sumps
(sorry, I couldn't stop myself).Dr Joe
.
I just spent the last two hours doing a test run of the sump. I used a 15G cooler to simulate the tank cause I wanna make sure everything is right before I actually hook it up to the tank.
Needless to say I ran into some problems
I hooked the pump (Via Aqua 1300) directly up to the return line and it was pumping out faster than the overflow. So I added a ball valve between the pump and the return and I had a hard time controlling the flow to keep it even.
Any suggestions
Needless to say I ran into some problems
I hooked the pump (Via Aqua 1300) directly up to the return line and it was pumping out faster than the overflow. So I added a ball valve between the pump and the return and I had a hard time controlling the flow to keep it even.
Any suggestions
I like the way you operate
Is the water level in the cooler staying high enough to resemble the real tank and overflow properly?
Bypass part of the return back into the sump (put a 'T' just before the return valve, you may or may not need a second valve here depending on the resistance going back to the sump) it will make it easier to control or make a bigger (add another) overflow / siphon tube to input more water to the sump.
Smaller pump is a last resort, but as long as the Bio-area isn't overflooded (you have enough drain holes) inputting more water seems to be the key.
Hey, where in the FLA are you?
Dr Joe
.
Is the water level in the cooler staying high enough to resemble the real tank and overflow properly?
Bypass part of the return back into the sump (put a 'T' just before the return valve, you may or may not need a second valve here depending on the resistance going back to the sump) it will make it easier to control or make a bigger (add another) overflow / siphon tube to input more water to the sump.
Smaller pump is a last resort, but as long as the Bio-area isn't overflooded (you have enough drain holes) inputting more water seems to be the key.
Hey, where in the FLA are you?
Dr Joe
.
Hey Sparker18 you didn't drowned in the flood did you?
Update!...
Update!...
Update!...
Dr Joe
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Update!...
Update!...
Update!...
Dr Joe
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