DIY sumps

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cenecker

Gambusia
MFK Member
May 15, 2005
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Lately I've been trying to gather information on building sumps - haven't really found any good resources.

Can anyone suggest any good books or webpages?

Seems to me as I'm learning more about it - sumps are quite obviously the way to go. I used to be an auto technician so building my own systems really appeals to the few remaining shreds of mechanical inclination in me :screwy:

However I'm really at a loss for how some of the basic physics of the systems work - for example what the heck keeps the sump from overflowing? Does the return pump (I'm probably not using the right terminology, sorry) just have to be matched to the rate at which the overflow drains? It seems like that would be really hard to calculate.

I'd like to use my 60 gal as my guinea pig for building a system, but it doesn't have any 'overflow chambers' or holes in it, so how could I create an overflow chamber or siphoning effect in the tank...just stick a tube in it and get it siphoning :screwy: ?

Anyway - I've got way more questions than I could type up here - I basically don't understand anything :shakehead . So if someone could point me in a direction as to where to find some good basic info that would be great - or any other input on the topic, I'd love to hear it because I'd really like to get rolling on this project. :feedback:
 
i got a pic of how to make one on my computer
ill post it when i get h0me
 
If your 60g doesn't have built-in towers, you can purchase a hang-on overflow, usually available through most online pet sites such as bigals, drsfosterandsmith, ebay, etc.

Your return pump's GPH have to match closely with your overflow's GPH however, using a valve on the pump or the overflow will ensure the flow rates match to prevent the sump from overflowing.
 
can you make it smaller? (like 35gal wise?)
 
The overflows can flow any amount as long as they can outflow the pump. Make shure you drill a hole to brake the suction on the return line in case of power loss
 
heres one diy web page and theres a few more really good ones out there,but thier all pretty much the same.good luck.oh yeah ,ask the guys at the local pet store,if they have a good aquarium section that is,i.e. I dont mean petsmart or pet supplies plus or pet barn or any other big chain store with sick and dying fish in thier tanks.
http://cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_overflow.php (sorry i dont know how to do direct links yet :swear: )
 
M|L;27473; said:
Your return pump's GPH have to match closely with your overflow's GPH however, using a valve on the pump or the overflow will ensure the flow rates match to prevent the sump from overflowing.

Not exactly. You can flow as much as your overflows can handle, or 1gph if you wanted. They will only flow what the pump can return. You start having problems when the pump overpowers the overflow.

I always make sure my overflows can flow more than my pump.
 
If you were to drill your tank you will have little to no problems. The drains are usually 1" and the return lines are usually 3/4". That way no matter what you have enough space for your water to flow out of. If your pump is pumping in 10 gallons the water displaced into your overflow drain will be 10 gallons and therefore have an equilization happening in the tank and the water remains the same. I have been taught and shown to prove the point that your sump should have a capable volume 1/3 the size of your tank at a minimum. But the larger the sump the better the capacity of bio loads/ fitration happens. You really can use anything as your sump as well. Big rubbermade containers, old tanks, whatever holds water can be modifyed into a sump.
 
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