Do I have enough filtration

[neutrino]

Thanks, I did take the media out since I have no other filter to put it in. I’ll test my parameters in the morning. Is there any solution other than water changes to fix the spike if it happens? I have another tank that’s way over filtered, but would taking a filter from that one just cause the same issue in the other tank? The other tank does have a much lower bio load though

If by overfiltered you mean multiple filters, the impact of removing a filter shouldn't actually be that dramatic, since the beneficial bacteria colony in a tank will be distributed across those filters as well as substrate. If it's me and I have an overfiltered tank and a marginally filtered tank, the solution would be obvious: I'd move one of the filters from the overfiltered tank, probably one of the smaller ones if they're different size/performance filters, do a big water change on both tanks, then feed both tanks lightly for a few days to a week.

OR-- trade filters between tanks, bigger/higher performance filter from the overfiltered tank for a smaller/lesser performance filter on the underfiltered tank, do the water changes, feed lightly for a few days to a week. This upgrades one tank with less impact on the other. Just do what makes sense based on which filters are where.

Also, I agree with Duane, keep the media in one of the tanks to keep the media active, putting it in the way of some water flow is even better. In effect, this adds the media to your substrate as a more passive form of bio-filtration and this can also figure into the equation of balancing out filtration between your tanks.

I've done this sort of thing many times without much drama, one of the perks of multiple tanks, multiple filters.

 

[duanes]

One other thing, there is no such thing as "over filtering" a tank, you can have too much flow for some species of fish, but never really over filter.
Other than oxbow type fish, like discus, angels or rice paddy/stagnant pond type like a few long finned Betta's etc etc, its almost imposibble to have too much current, unless you focus a powerful unidirectional spray at them
In nature most lacustrine or riverine species are in a 100% water change per minute, with flows in the hundreds (if not millions) of gallons in that same time.
In many tanks I've kept for cichlids, the plants are bending with the flow, and that heavier flow often curtails aggression.
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[tiger15]

The best way to find this out is to test water parameters. The reading from the test for example any positive reading of Ammonia or Nitrite will indicate if the filters are sufficient to handle the bioload of the fish in the aquarium.

Testing water parameters may be a good way to start a tank, but too late to detect filtration deficiency in a stocked up tank. Testing becomes a diagnosis after the fact on why fish are sick and dying.

The best biological filtration is good oxygenated flow over substrate, rock and decors, and I see no need for dedicated biofilter or bio media unless one overstocks fish in a bare bottom tank. Wave makers are good way to furnish oxygenated flow, better, cheaper and more efficient than high gpd filters.

Since I use filters for mechanical filtration only, I don't guage the adequacy of filtration by gpd or turn over rate, but rather by the clarity of water, specifically how long it clears up after feeding my messy cichlid. Best mechanical filtration is gentle flow through the media, not high power flow that prematurely bypasses the media. In my heavily stocked 125g, for example, the combined filtration is below 600 gpd from 3 HOBs, but a wave maker blows over 1000 gpd over the content.

 

[Joshuakahan]

Anytime you take filter out of service, its a good idea to immediately put the biomedia in a a mesh bag, or some other container and leave it in the tank.
This will preserve many of the resident bacteria to use when it, or a new filter is put back.
It can also help to jump start another tank, to prevent need for cycling, or mini cycles.
Since I use sumps, and don't need them to be aesthetically pleasing, I throw old bio wheels, rings, lava rock or substrate in Tupperware or any old containers to use later. My sumps are a bastion of stuff, at the ready

I also agree, that no one can predict how long or how much media you need.
Each tank, with its stock is an entity unto itself, so testing your parameters regularly is the only sure fire method of knowing what's up.
And reacting with lots of water changes to parameter changes if need be can save a tank crash.

Thanks, i tested about 20 minutes ago and so far all is good and unchanged. I didn’t think to put my media bags in the tank. I’ll remember that for next time.

 

[Joshuakahan]

If by overfiltered you mean multiple filters, the impact of removing a filter shouldn't actually be that dramatic, since the beneficial bacteria colony in a tank will be distributed across those filters as well as substrate. If it's me and I have an overfiltered tank and a marginally filtered tank, the solution would be obvious: I'd move one of the filters from the overfiltered tank, probably one of the smaller ones if they're different size/performance filters, do a big water change on both tanks, then feed both tanks lightly for a few days to a week.

OR-- trade filters between tanks, bigger/higher performance filter from the overfiltered tank for a smaller/lesser performance filter on the underfiltered tank, do the water changes, feed lightly for a few days to a week. This upgrades one tank with less impact on the other. Just do what makes sense based on which filters are where.

Also, I agree with Duane, keep the media in one of the tanks to keep the media active, putting it in the way of some water flow is even better. In effect, this adds the media to your substrate as a more passive form of bio-filtration and this can also figure into the equation of balancing out filtration between your tanks.

I've done this sort of thing many times without much drama, one of the perks of multiple tanks, multiple filters.

The over filtered tank is a 75 with a 2” Flowerhorn in it and two aquaclear 70s and a large sponge filter hooked up to a 175 gph power head.

 

[Joshuakahan]

Testing water parameters may be a good way to start a tank, but too late to detect filtration deficiency in a stocked up tank. Testing becomes a diagnosis after the fact on why fish are sick and dying.

The best biological filtration is good oxygenated flow over substrate, rock and decors, and I see no need for dedicated biofilter or bio media unless one overstocks fish in a bare bottom tank. Wave makers are good way to furnish oxygenated flow, better, cheaper and more efficient than high gpd filters.

Since I use filters for mechanical filtration only, I don't guage the adequacy of filtration by gpd or turn over rate, but rather by the clarity of water, specifically how long it clears up after feeding my messy cichlid. Best mechanical filtration is gentle flow through the media, not high power flow that prematurely bypasses the media. In my heavily stocked 125g, for example, the combined filtration is below 600 gpd from 3 HOBs, but a wave maker blows over 1000 gpd over the content.

That sounds like how I kept my salt tanks, i didn’t think that worked with freshwater. Live rock makes it possible to just have flow and minimal mechanical filtration.

 

[tiger15]

That sounds like how I kept my salt tanks, i didn’t think that worked with freshwater. Live rock makes it possible to just have flow and minimal mechanical filtration.

Oxygenated flow over substrate or live sand is what keep fish and bb alive. Mechanical filtration is for our eyes not essential for the fish, as few freshwater habitats have crystal clear water. You can just run wave maker without filtration of any sort to keep healthy fish as long as you keep up with regular water change and detritus vacuuming.

 

[Joshuakahan]

Oxygenated flow over substrate or live sand is what keep fish and bb alive. Mechanical filtration is for our eyes not essential for the fish, as few freshwater habitats have crystal clear water. You can just run wave maker without filtration of any sort to keep healthy fish as long as you keep up with regular water change and detritus vacuuming.

Thanks, I had only been doing salt tanks up until a couple years ago. When I got back into fresh, I guess my knowledge was out dated lol

 

[esoxlucius]

Oxygenated flow over substrate or live sand is what keep fish and bb alive. Mechanical filtration is for our eyes not essential for the fish, as few freshwater habitats have crystal clear water. You can just run wave maker without filtration of any sort to keep healthy fish as long as you keep up with regular water change and detritus vacuuming.

Let me get this right.

So, as long as you have substrate and decor for BB to live, and you have a powerhead blowing water over said substrate and decor, you believe that 1. You don't need any mechanical filtration at all because in the wild fish usually live in murky water anyway, and 2. You don't need any bio media neither because you've got a powerhead blowing water over your substrate?

I must say that really is an interesting take on how to run an aquarium. Funnily enough though it would probably work in a lightly stocked tank maybe but I think i'd get a bit fed up of the water looking like crap all the time. You'd be forever vacuuming.

This concept you mention is worth a thread on its own though I don't think you'd get many changing their set ups.

 

[Joshuakahan]

Let me get this right.

So, as long as you have substrate and decor for BB to live, and you have a powerhead blowing water over said substrate and decor, you believe that 1. You don't need any mechanical filtration at all because in the wild fish usually live in murky water anyway, and 2. You don't need any bio media neither because you've got a powerhead blowing water over your substrate?

I must say that really is an interesting take on how to run an aquarium. Funnily enough though it would probably work in a lightly stocked tank maybe but I think i'd get a bit fed up of the water looking like crap all the time. You'd be forever vacuuming.

This concept you mention is worth a thread on its own though I don't think you'd get many changing their set ups.

His concept works well with saltwater tanks, depending on bio load of course and the types of corals, mainly because of live rock. As far as freshwater, I’m taking in everyone’s opinions because I’m realizing my knowledge is somewhat out dated. I kept freshwater in the late 80s-mid 90s and then went to salt up to about 21/2 years ago. Without live rock, I am skeptical if his theory would work with a bio load like mine.