Do I need a new faucet in order to use this aqueon water changer?

[Trouser Cough]

That's a pretty good sized tank you're going to use that python on. If at some point you decide that process is too slow, holler. There are several here that do big WC's often and the topic's been beat around some. The method I use would still require the sink and adapter you're talking about though so no matter what... that's an xlnt step.

 

[Irecruitfish]

That's a pretty good sized tank you're going to use that python on. If at some point you decide that process is too slow, holler. There are several here that do big WC's often and the topic's been beat around some. The method I use would still require the sink and adapter you're talking about though so no matter what... that's an xlnt step.

Definitely interested in what you might have to advise.

Took a picture of my laundry faucets near the machines. The wife does laundry like a crazy person so I don't want to interfere with her. Definitely might need to add additional faucets.

 

[LBDave]

My wife does laundry all the time. I tell her not to sweat it as I just pause the machine when I use the water. If the hose bibs at the washer are hard to reach you could add Y's and hook up to the valve I suggested. Leave it off and it's ready to use when you do a change. I use these hoses when hooking up for a water change.
Amazon.com: LASCO 16-1702 Rubber Washing Machine Hose with 3/4-Inch Female Hose, 3-Foot : Appliances
i run the hose to the sink and check temp with a meat thermometer before I introduce water.

 

[LBDave]

As a side note, I have found silicone washers are much better than the "rubber washers".
Yeah, you could have a plumber plumb in hose bibs for hundreds of dollars or just use hoses and 'Y' yourself.
The weak point (leaks)is the hoses and washers. The hoses I suggested have lasted many years.

 

[Irecruitfish]

As a side note, I have found silicone washers are much better than the "rubber washers".
Yeah, you could have a plumber plumb in hose bibs for hundreds of dollars or just use hoses and 'Y' yourself.
The weak point (leaks)is the hoses and washers. The hoses I suggested have lasted many years.

Good stuff and could be a good solution. My concern is once I attach the python doesn't that increase chances of leaking? I remember at my old house this thing would leak but I didn't care since it was direct me into the drain. I didn't use any silicone washers though.

 

[Irecruitfish]

Well, I use the laundry room hose bibs. Don't know if that helps.

So going back to the valve you recommended...may be a dumb question but when you're doing laundry do you have to turn the valve on and off? The twist valve.

 

[Trouser Cough]

Definitely interested in what you might have to advise.

My suggestion(s) would be:

- Figure out a convenient water source. Laundry room sink, washing machine, etc. I'm sure others have figured out how to mix hot and cold at the washing machine valves but were it me I would use a sink as my WC method involves turning both hot and cold water on full blast. It's not exact as far as replacement water temp but it's close and my fish have never complained.

- Measure how far it is roughly from that water source to your tank and buy a 3/4" garden hose (not 5/8" and definitely not one of those really skinny ones that seem to be the rage at hdwe stores. You want a real live 3/4" contractor grade hose that is not prone to kinking and yet is flexible. I mount mine on an indoor hose reel just because it gets used often enough to warrant same. The reason for the rough calc of distance between water source and tank is that the coefficient of friction increases w/ hose length and flow rate diminishes quickly. If it's only 25 feet or so I wouldn't recommend a 50' hose. You want to make sure you can cover both drain and fill distances w/ same hose though.

- Build a U-shaped PVC fitting that you can hook over the top of your tank. You'll use it for draining and you'll use it for filling. I prefer dorsal fin high WC's so on the inside of my tank that fitting hangs pretty low. At the other end of the fitting is a specific hose adapter and you need the right one. One end of your hose may be connected to a hose bib, faucet, etc. so that end will be the female end of your hose. At the other end of the hose is a male adapter so you'll need a female adapter at the end of your home fab'd PVC fitting. This is what I built for WC's and I use a coupling, another section of PVC pipe and a strainer to accommodate various tank depths...




Don't mind the muck on my stick. River bottoms are a little dirty too.

Once you've got that sorted you should see a drain and fill speed roughly 3x quicker than that little python could ever deliver. Holler if I need to insert a little clarity here, I'm heading for the rack.

If there were one other thing to be aware of it's that if you have a tank style HWH at your home you'll want to be aware of how much it can provide before you have no hot water left and you'll want to factor in how much laundry mamma's been doing and how recently. If you have an instant HWH then you likely have no issue there.

 

[Trouser Cough]

You're looking at that assembly and wondering if you need to suck.

The answer is no, you do not.

Hook it up as if you're adding water to the tank and then turn on the faucet until you hear the sound of pressure changing within the hose. That should mean the hose is full enough to start the siphon naturally.

Kink the hose at the sink to maintain the water inside the hose, disconnect it from the sink faucet and walk the end you had connected to the faucet to wherever you'd like to drain your tank.

Lay the hose down and the flow should start... and it'll be a hell of a lot faster than that python ever dreamed of.

You may come to a point where the process of a WC may seem a little tedious. Plants are the answer. Cover the top w/ planters and leave enough room for a light fixture in there somewhere. WC interval can drop, depending on what you raise in the tank.

 

[Trouser Cough]

Oh yeah... if you're in the US you may want to start haunting the half dead / half off discount plant rack at Lowes or Home Depot, etc. I hit both today and picked up some pothos and four deiffenbachia (sp). They'll always have a thirsty houseplant that's on the ropes and will usually come back strong after dangling its feet in your tank for a few days. Low light and thirsty is what you're needing for that interior wall location.

 

[Irecruitfish]

My suggestion(s) would be:

- Figure out a convenient water source. Laundry room sink, washing machine, etc. I'm sure others have figured out how to mix hot and cold at the washing machine valves but were it me I would use a sink as my WC method involves turning both hot and cold water on full blast. It's not exact as far as replacement water temp but it's close and my fish have never complained.

- Measure how far it is roughly from that water source to your tank and buy a 3/4" garden hose (not 5/8" and definitely not one of those really skinny ones that seem to be the rage at hdwe stores. You want a real live 3/4" contractor grade hose that is not prone to kinking and yet is flexible. I mount mine on an indoor hose reel just because it gets used often enough to warrant same. The reason for the rough calc of distance between water source and tank is that the coefficient of friction increases w/ hose length and flow rate diminishes quickly. If it's only 25 feet or so I wouldn't recommend a 50' hose. You want to make sure you can cover both drain and fill distances w/ same hose though.

- Build a U-shaped PVC fitting that you can hook over the top of your tank. You'll use it for draining and you'll use it for filling. I prefer dorsal fin high WC's so on the inside of my tank that fitting hangs pretty low. At the other end of the fitting is a specific hose adapter and you need the right one. One end of your hose may be connected to a hose bib, faucet, etc. so that end will be the female end of your hose. At the other end of the hose is a male adapter so you'll need a female adapter at the end of your home fab'd PVC fitting. This is what I built for WC's and I use a coupling, another section of PVC pipe and a strainer to accommodate various tank depths...

View attachment 1535806


Don't mind the muck on my stick. River bottoms are a little dirty too.

Once you've got that sorted you should see a drain and fill speed roughly 3x quicker than that little python could ever deliver. Holler if I need to insert a little clarity here, I'm heading for the rack.

If there were one other thing to be aware of it's that if you have a tank style HWH at your home you'll want to be aware of how much it can provide before you have no hot water left and you'll want to factor in how much laundry mamma's been doing and how recently. If you have an instant HWH then you likely have no issue there.

Love this... creativity/efficiency at it's finest. This will be helpful if...ok let's be realistic when I get a larger tank.


So just to confirm I need to buy a faucet that can tread onto the 3/4" garden hose tread? I agree the faucet sink is the best option here for WCs.

Pothos rocks had it in my tanks in the past. I once had a smaller tank(heavy plants) never did a WC in 2 years but had to top off the water weekly. I won't have that in the 210 but will have some plants to help.



I'm on well water and have a septic tank so my plan was to use a pump and drain the water outside. But if it's -30 out it's going to be difficult doing that! I suppose I didn't understand what you meant on how to drain the tank using the garden hose connected to the faucet.