Does salt act as a natural algaecide?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
The planted tanks guys are the real experts on this, but.....algae needs more than JUST light to grow. It also needs nitrates, phosphates, other chemicals. Different algae types grow well in different nutrient levels. You tank is low nitrate, high phosphate--there's an algae for that. Your tank is NO phosphate, but a a little nitrate--there's another algae for that. They all like light, though.

So, you're always gonna have algae. You can only make it grow slower. Cut the light, and cut the phosphate and nitrate in the water that it uses for food.

But, if you have big Cichlids in your tank, you're gonna have all KINDS of nutrients for algae, because the fish produce it, excrete it, and the food you feed your fish are full of it, too.

Since you can't quit feeding your fish, you're stuck with less light--ALOT less than you're currently running--and remove nutrients.

So don't turn on your lights unless you want to look at the fish. And change your water more frequently. Water Change cuts the nutrient level in the tank by alot. Just like you remove nitrates, you're also removing all the phosphates, and whatever else algae eats--it's a long list of algae nutrients.

I have a big tank that I really REALLY don't want to get into heavy maintenance with. If I work out of town, the lights don't turn on for a week. When I am in town, the lights come on when I'm sitting in the room. That's it. I don't have a timer on the lights on that tank. The fish don't care. They can see just fine to beat each other even when the lights are off--there's a window in the room so they can tell day from night--that's all they need. My fish are CA cichlids, no Pleco's. Fish don't need light. Their eyes are good for 20-30 feet underwater, not much light down there, either.

I put a drip on the tank, too. Always clean water dripping into the tank. Helps keep nutrient levels lower. Or, I'd be doing HUGE water changes every week. Like 75%-90% once a week.

And, try not to feed as much. These fish hit 5 inches, they don't need to eat everyday. They won't grow faster if you feed 'em more anyway. So why put more phosphate from pellet food than the fish really need. It just grows algae.
 
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The planted tanks guys are the real experts on this, but.....algae needs more than JUST light to grow. It also needs nitrates, phosphates, other chemicals. Different algae types grow well in different nutrient levels. You tank is low nitrate, high phosphate--there's an algae for that. Your tank is NO phosphate, but a a little nitrate--there's another algae for that. They all like light, though.

So, you're always gonna have algae. You can only make it grow slower. Cut the light, and cut the phosphate and nitrate in the water that it uses for food.

But, if you have big Cichlids in your tank, you're gonna have all KINDS of nutrients for algae, because the fish produce it, excrete it, and the food you feed your fish are full of it, too.

Since you can't quit feeding your fish, you're stuck with less light--ALOT less than you're currently running--and remove nutrients.

So don't turn on your lights unless you want to look at the fish. And change your water more frequently. Water Change cuts the nutrient level in the tank by alot. Just like you remove nitrates, you're also removing all the phosphates, and whatever else algae eats--it's a long list of algae nutrients.

I have a big tank that I really REALLY don't want to get into heavy maintenance with. If I work out of town, the lights don't turn on for a week. When I am in town, the lights come on when I'm sitting in the room. That's it. I don't have a timer on the lights on that tank. The fish don't care. They can see just fine to beat each other even when the lights are off--there's a window in the room so they can tell day from night--that's all they need. My fish are CA cichlids, no Pleco's. Fish don't need light. Their eyes are good for 20-30 feet underwater, not much light down there, either.

I put a drip on the tank, too. Always clean water dripping into the tank. Helps keep nutrient levels lower. Or, I'd be doing HUGE water changes every week. Like 75%-90% once a week.

And, try not to feed as much. These fish hit 5 inches, they don't need to eat everyday. They won't grow faster if you feed 'em more anyway. So why put more phosphate from pellet food than the fish really need. It just grows algae.

Wow great post! You think a UV sterilizer will benefit with my issue?
 
I've never had one. I think UV could help a lot, but they're expensive for big tanks, and they have to be sized right, flow through the UV light had to be the right rate.

I'd like to have one, but I kinda got the impression the buy and use UV is great for smaller tanks. As tanks get bigger, you have to almost design/build a "UV system".

More trouble than it's worth for me. But, I do still get the bug from time to time.
 
Another thing that helped me a lot on a 125 gallon I have is higher flow.

I had a lot more algae and slime when I first started it. I went from 2 Eheim 2217's to an Eheim 2262.

Bigger canister, a lot more flow through the tank, it helped cut down the algae in that tank.

Fewer fish helps, too. I was heavily stocked back then, and lightly filtered--I was cleaning it out all the time.
 
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Or an algae scrubber.
 
Both the Dead Sea and the Great Salt Lake have algae, including green algae. So, no, salt is not an algacide. Algae, or algae like bacteria, are some of the oldest living things on the planet and, as mentioned above, for almost any chemistry there's an algae (or algae like bacteria) for it.
 
No it doesn't!
 
Look into controlling algae but cutting down its food sources by increasing water changes/turnover , feeding fish less or by using pro biotics or even H202 added to aquarium ..
Product I like , that I just started experimenting with is Seachem Pristine..
 
A UV light will take care of free floating algae, but not the algae that grows on the glass, unless it flows thru the UV, it will not be zapped.
+1. When set up properly in a reasonably well maintained tank (you can't expect UV to make up for bad tank/water management) UV will help clarify water and help with green water. When I say clarify, some people misconstrue UV units as filters-- they're not filters, they're water treatment-- but if you research it, UV can have a positive effect on redox, which contributes to overall water quality and can make filtration more efficient.

Doesn't mean you have to have UV or that UV is the only way to good redox, just that it's a benefit most people aren't aware of.
 
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