Drilling a 180 for bulkheads sump set up

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Ok I'm a little confused. If I use the Laguna 2000 at 6 foot head height, it's flowing around 1360 gph. I have a head height of 4.5 feet so it should flow a little more. According to the chart two one inch bulkheads flow 1200 gph together so I'm flowing more water in the display tank than is flowing out right?

I like the idea of the 90 degree elbow inside the tank. Also I see the Laguna pumps are very wide, the pump return section is not going to be that wide, can I put the pump on its side?


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Those charts err on the side of caution. In my experience a 1" bulkhead can easily flow twice what they estimate (around 1200gph). Like I said my 3x1" drains are flowing over 3000gph and can handle lots of extra flow still. I can with 100% certainty say that 2 1" drains can handle a laguna max flo 2000, even at your lowere head height. Also I have mine running without the cage, on their sides and hard plumbed. This setup requires no more room than any other pump setup.
 
Thank you. That's what I'm going to use then. I really value the input from you guys your help is much appreciated. Now would the best place to drill be in the middle, with the return on the one side? I'm also running a fx5 with 4L of pound matrix that ill set up on the other side.


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Ok I think I could make that work. My sump sits on the side in my stand and then my fx5. One hose will be a little longer than the other, no big deal. What would be a good return hose size? I'm thinking an 1 1/4 or should I stick with 1 inch?




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I would use a larger diameter bulkhead. While an unclogged 1 " pipe can handle the flow you want, a 1 " drain is easily clogged with debris, a dead fish, etc, and an overflow is possible, especially if plants are in the mix. You also may want more flow at some point, and you are restricted with 1".
And I would drill the center of the hole lower than 1/2".
The closer you drill to an edge, the easier it is to crack the glass, and you need room for the threaded parts of the bulkheads to turn and tighten. The only time I have cracked a tank while drilling, is when I drilled too close the edge. (it was a small tank, with thin glass though, I have drilled maybe half dozen tanks, from 20 gal to 6ft tanks over 100 gals).
I use 1.5" PVC into bulkheads, and drill the holes about 4" below the edge of the glass, and there is a very small clearance between the threaded nuts and the frame.

I use refugiums on my freshwater tanks, and find them to excellent nitrate users, planting with papyrus, water hyacinth and pothos. (my nitrate levels average 2-5ppm on tanks with refugiums)
I also breed rishi shrimp in the refugiums,which occasionally overflow into tanks, and are great source of extra food. Below is a 20 gal refugium, my sumps are usually 40 breeders, or 50 gal tanks


a different 40 gal refugium
 
I can go bigger that's a good idea. I'm glad I started this thread. Anyway ya I love your refugium's and yes I need to lower my nitrates, between water changes. What do you guys use for a substrate in your refugium's? I'm thinking of pond matrix.

As far as drilling the holes nothing will be done until I get my bulkheads and place them where I want them then Ill figure out where I need the holes drilled. Now to find someone to drill them.


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I looked at those pumps and ill have to go with bigger bulkheads for the flow of that pump according to the chart. That no problem. But the shape of those pumps I don't think it will fit in my pump section of my sump. And it's 100 watts not 80. As far as the refugium yes i have to have it down there. My oscars don't just move the plants they tear them up. I even got floating water hyacinth that was a huge mistake lol.

As far as the drilled holes, only two and they are only for the drains. The return will go up over the top of the tank. My head height will be 4.5 feet


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Sounds like the spec sheet you are looking at is for the 2011 or older version of the pump (PT346) which does draw 100 watts. The 2012 and newer model Max Flo 2000 (PT8244) draws only 80 watts.

You can find flow charts and power consumption in the links referenced below:

2011 product catalog: http://www.lagunaponds.com/lagunaeng/careguides/2011-Laguna-Catalogue.pdf
2013 product catalog: http://www.lagunaponds.com/lagunaeng/careguides/LagunaPond-GTWG-2013-English.pdf

I would also recommend going with 1.5" drains. It's much better to oversize drains than to be stuck with undersized drains that can't handle your pumps output.

Good luck!
 
Here's a little reading on overflows that might help. Whether you use this system or not, there is some very good information that might be useful to you.

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

This was designed for reef tanks, but is just as useful for fw. I used this on my 37 and went with this system because I already experienced a very minor flooding incident using an over the side system, and, I wanted a quiet and reliable system. There is also the Herbie system that uses just two drains, but, personally, I like the 'failsafe' of the added drain for those power outages and re-start-ups that can cause a tank to over flow. GL with the build!
 
Well I'm having a hard time finding someone to drill this beast. So I'm starting to look at HOB overflows.


This one seems to be the best CPR CS150 that I can find. Anyone have any issues with it? If you use it, pros and cons would be great. Thanks.


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