I have a setup much like the one pictured above, two carbon filters, a pressure regulator (15psi), a needle valve, and then the tank.
Overflow goes down the sink, but will be sent to the gf's garden later this weekend.
Carbon filters will filter out chloramines if the water stays in contact with the carbon long enough.
If you were to use two (or three, they're cheap after all) block type carbon filters you should be in good shape chloramine wise.
I did a ton of reading on this site and many others when i was setting my system up (at the time i didn't know whether i had chlorine or chloramine), and i found a few different people using carbon for chloramines with no issues after a few months of use.
As to the ammonia you will also have a constant nitrate export down the drain.
Typicly constant drip water changing setups stabilize at a nitrate reading after a month or so, and then never move from that reading.
If you have higher nitrates then you like, simply turn the water flow up and watch 'em go away.
The ammonia going in will result in a higher static reading then just the fish would, but the ammount of ammonia you'd be putting in (less then 1ppm) after oxidation is still less then 10ppm.
You could also, if you felt like making sure the fish never saw ammonia, cycle an inline filter (hook it to a powerhead for a while) and then place that between the chloramine filter and the tank.
By the time the water got to the tank it'd be nitrates rather then ammonia.
Overflow goes down the sink, but will be sent to the gf's garden later this weekend.
Carbon filters will filter out chloramines if the water stays in contact with the carbon long enough.
If you were to use two (or three, they're cheap after all) block type carbon filters you should be in good shape chloramine wise.
I did a ton of reading on this site and many others when i was setting my system up (at the time i didn't know whether i had chlorine or chloramine), and i found a few different people using carbon for chloramines with no issues after a few months of use.
As to the ammonia you will also have a constant nitrate export down the drain.
Typicly constant drip water changing setups stabilize at a nitrate reading after a month or so, and then never move from that reading.
If you have higher nitrates then you like, simply turn the water flow up and watch 'em go away.
The ammonia going in will result in a higher static reading then just the fish would, but the ammount of ammonia you'd be putting in (less then 1ppm) after oxidation is still less then 10ppm.
You could also, if you felt like making sure the fish never saw ammonia, cycle an inline filter (hook it to a powerhead for a while) and then place that between the chloramine filter and the tank.
By the time the water got to the tank it'd be nitrates rather then ammonia.
