One thing to note is that the manufacturers of the drink water systems suggest that the pressure or flow is reduced AFTER the filter and not before, this is due to the fact that the membranes need to be under pressure to work at their best, I added a £2 capillary flow restrictor to keep the pressure high but the flow rate low.
Drip System for Rays
- Thread starter Raymann88
- Start date
Thanks everyone. I wqs thinking of using the system that Calgary is using. If your waterlines coming into the filter are larger than going out, this will create the required backpressure needed for the filter system to work properly. My well is set for 4 gallons a minute, so I should be good as far as the pressure tank kicking in /out as long as I stay below that flow rate. I was thinking 5 gallons per hour. That would equal 840 gallons per week - the equivalent of 2+ water changes per week.
Toby their is not membranes I'n my system.just simple 300 micron filter looks like felt, the next is a refillable chamber u dump a bag of carbon that removes chloramaine / ammonia and the last is a carbon block filter.these units lack the membranes that ro units use that i think u maybe mistaken with.the manufacturer of these my unit doesn't state i need anything else no fancy solenoids that could ultimately fail.i would never rely on a fancy valve or solenoid " nothing beats a old fashion valve" most safe and reliable .and it's tied into my 3/4" laundry machine line which has alot of pressure
mike why dont you just drip your ro water lol!! you do have a whole house ro system hooked up do you not.do half ro half tap water
Hey Calgary, I was not knocking your system, just trying to add useful advice.
The uk distributor of hma told me that I MUST run the flow restrictor to keep the pressure high, I used the word membrane as a way to explain what he meant, i think your filters are very similar to mine, I am not confusing with ro. Maybe as mine removes chloramine it is different? I am purely passing on the advice of the distributor and he is very well respected in the discus world....see devotedly discus.
The solenoid is not a "fancy valve" they are used In Commercial operations all the time, mine is what is termed normally closed therefore if it fails it closes and stops flow. If the power fails, it stops flow....if it could even lock open then I have a mechanical fail safe timer so there would be no difference, the solenoid is there so that I have an OFF should my waste pipe freeze....as soon as the sump hits it's highest level the flow stops.
This is a really simple setup.....I wonder what others do in case their wastes freeze? I assumed wrongly that the constant flow of hot water would stop the pipe freezing....it did not when we hit minus 7.
We all do things our own way, there are many ways of doing it, I wanted mine to be very small, neat and have fails safes in place.
Your system works and that's fine, my comments were meant for people designing a new system. My point is that a tap to reduce the pressure and flow rate BEFORE the filter might not be as good as a flow restrictor AFTER the filter...it is only a design or layout issue /choice.
The uk distributor of hma told me that I MUST run the flow restrictor to keep the pressure high, I used the word membrane as a way to explain what he meant, i think your filters are very similar to mine, I am not confusing with ro. Maybe as mine removes chloramine it is different? I am purely passing on the advice of the distributor and he is very well respected in the discus world....see devotedly discus.
The solenoid is not a "fancy valve" they are used In Commercial operations all the time, mine is what is termed normally closed therefore if it fails it closes and stops flow. If the power fails, it stops flow....if it could even lock open then I have a mechanical fail safe timer so there would be no difference, the solenoid is there so that I have an OFF should my waste pipe freeze....as soon as the sump hits it's highest level the flow stops.
This is a really simple setup.....I wonder what others do in case their wastes freeze? I assumed wrongly that the constant flow of hot water would stop the pipe freezing....it did not when we hit minus 7.
We all do things our own way, there are many ways of doing it, I wanted mine to be very small, neat and have fails safes in place.
Your system works and that's fine, my comments were meant for people designing a new system. My point is that a tap to reduce the pressure and flow rate BEFORE the filter might not be as good as a flow restrictor AFTER the filter...it is only a design or layout issue /choice.
yah i know toby no worries man.
raymann has whole house ro system he should and i reccomend the use of that for sure even if he buys a drip system i think he should still drip a bit of ro too.
i want to hook up ro but my tank is too big to much water and my water bill is already $250 per month!! i dont want my water bill to double or or triple cause if ro system or i would utilize one of these systems for damb sure.
toby with the system i use you cant run hot water through it.i usually dump cold but lately have been turning on the hot just a bit incase the power ever goes out it will still drip.but again if the power goes out that long i am screwed anyways.
raymann has whole house ro system he should and i reccomend the use of that for sure even if he buys a drip system i think he should still drip a bit of ro too.
i want to hook up ro but my tank is too big to much water and my water bill is already $250 per month!! i dont want my water bill to double or or triple cause if ro system or i would utilize one of these systems for damb sure.
toby with the system i use you cant run hot water through it.i usually dump cold but lately have been turning on the hot just a bit incase the power ever goes out it will still drip.but again if the power goes out that long i am screwed anyways.
I drip mine into the opposite end of the drain. It's less trouble for me because I never touch a thing. I think draining the tank and then refilling would be better by a small degree but that requires effort. I do test my water parameters every couple months and increase or decrease flow in the drip accordingly. I try not to waist to much water, the summer months when the tank temps rise above 85 I need more drip because the fish activity (poo) seems to be higher than the winter........
I use a hose bib type valve for this reason for ease increasing or decreasing the flow.
I do not run hot in to my tank, I meant the waste water coming out the tank at 80 degrees.
Egon, I think most of us add new water to the main tank on the drip and then drill the sump for waste water, that way it is fully mixed with the tank water so less chance of the new water simply flowing out again.
I think in Norway you need a generator just in case, at least you can keep them warm. I bought one for mine but have not used yet, thankfully. This is one reason for the solenoid being normally closed so that if I have a long power outage I am not adding cold water to the tank when the heaters are off, I have mine set that if the power goes off the drip cannot start until the next day so that it has time to reheat.
Egon, I think most of us add new water to the main tank on the drip and then drill the sump for waste water, that way it is fully mixed with the tank water so less chance of the new water simply flowing out again.
I think in Norway you need a generator just in case, at least you can keep them warm. I bought one for mine but have not used yet, thankfully. This is one reason for the solenoid being normally closed so that if I have a long power outage I am not adding cold water to the tank when the heaters are off, I have mine set that if the power goes off the drip cannot start until the next day so that it has time to reheat.
