Drip System for Stingrays

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Thanks everyone. It seems like most people on a drip system are dripping high flow rates using unaltered tap water (dechlorinated of course). I'm curious of what their water parameters are. Some people have indicated ph around 8. Are you concerned with other water parameters such as TDS, hardness / alkalinity, ect? Any supply water parameters / conditions that you pay particular attention to other than stable PH, nitrates, etc and adjust your drip rates accordingly? I've not included ammonia and nitrites as I consider this more filtration management and not supply water quality.

With high drip rates, anyone experiencing challenges with maintaining tank temperature? I'm guessing everyone just uses bigger / more heaters? Anyone incorporating a heat exchanger off a recirculating line on their hot water tank to pre-warm the incoming water?


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My Temps stay around 81°, I have a thousand watt titanium heater in one of my sumps. My tanks are in my basement room temp never really drops below 72

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swedeboy78 said:
1. Drip flow rate and size of tank or system (if running multiple tanks)----------3-4 GPH

2. Do you drip continuously or drip on a timer?----------continuously

3. Do you drip directly into the tank(s), drip into a storage tank / vat and pump to the tank(s) or drip to a common recirculating sump barrel (for multiple tanks) and pump from there?-----------right into the sump by return pumps intake

4. Do you use a drip system only or supplement with additional water changes either manually or automatically?--------drip only

5. Do you draw down the water level on the tank(s) first and drip the water back up to full or run a continuous drip in with an overflow?----------continuous with overflow

6. Do you drip straight tap water (dechlorinated) or mix with RO/DI systems and if so what percentage of mix?-------3 stage HMA filter


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how big is your tank(s)?
 
Even if i drip 200 gpd my heaters rarely turn on

I haven't needed to check any other params but we do have very clean water here in detroit


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I build manifolds for my drip systems so I can easily switch from 4GPH, 8GPH and 12GPH with the flip of a valve. So my 500 gallon (other tanks less) gets 180-290 gallons per day, less when the flow slows.

Currently at 8GPH but will switch back to 12GPH tomorrow. I thought things were cooling off at night more than they are so I played it safe Monday night.

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My city water has a lot of sediment so I buy sediment filters (you're crazy not to run one) in bulk 50 packs and switch out weekly.

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JK47 said:
My city water has a lot of sediment so I buy sediment filters (you're crazy not to run one) in bulk 50 packs and switch out weekly.
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Dam the sediment must be bad I only change mine every 3 months and it's still looks clean after that amount of time

As for heat I keep my tank at 84-86 and control the temp with the drip due to very large pumps if I turn the drip off in the summer the tank will boil


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Heres hoping to no hose pipe bans then mate!!
T1KARMANN said:
Dam the sediment must be bad I only change mine every 3 months and it's still looks clean after that amount of time

As for heat I keep my tank at 84-86 and control the temp with the drip due to very large pumps if I turn the drip off in the summer the tank will boil


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JK47 said:
My city water has a lot of sediment so I buy sediment filters (you're crazy not to run one) in bulk 50 packs and switch out weekly.
Click to expand...

My carbon filters get loaded up pretty quickly. Should i be running a sediment first in line?


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