Drip System for Stingrays

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I run a 3 pod HMA and have never dosed with conditioner. This is what the 3 stage HMA is supposed to remove, works very very well for me.

5 micron rated sediment filter

This is effective in removing dirt,rust and sand particles


Carbon block filter,

Removes
gardia,cryptosporidiumcysts,pesticides,chlorine,Mtbe,trihalomethanes,pesticides,herbicides,benzene,randon, volatile organic chemicals



Gac Carbon filter,

Removes
MtBE, Trihalomethanes, Pesticides, Herbicides, Benzene, Radon, and countless Volatile Organic Chemicals.




softturtle said:
Curious if anyone is removing chloramine with out dosing a conditioner. And if so, what are you using?
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I just use the RO pre filters no RO membrane

I can buy a years work of pre filters for £49 or about $60 they contain 5 x sediment filters 5 micron 5 x granular carbon blocks and 5 x block carbon blocks all are 10" filters

I don't use the standard hma filters as they contain copper


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Same as you mate. I followed your advice when i set the tank up and buy the exact same filters as you, they work a treat!!
T1KARMANN said:
I just use the RO pre filters no RO membrane

I can buy a years work of pre filters for £49 or about $60 they contain 5 x sediment filters 5 micron 5 x granular carbon blocks and 5 x block carbon blocks all are 10" filters

I don't use the standard hma filters as they contain copper


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Click to expand...
 
1. Drip flow rate and size of tank or system (if running multiple tanks)

I drip 10 gallons per hour, 240 gallons a Day, System is multiple tanks all together into one - About 1600 gallons and im sure I will keep adding on.

2. Do you drip continuously or drip on a timer?

Continuously 24/7

3. Do you drip directly into the tank(s), drip into a storage tank / vat and pump to the tank(s) or drip to a common recirculating sump barrel (for multiple tanks) and pump from there?

I drip into one of my sumps that has a drain installed, the water drips right above the inlet of my main pump to the largest tank

4. Do you use a drip system only or supplement with additional water changes either manually or automatically?

Drip only, No other water changes are ever done

5. Do you draw down the water level on the tank(s) first and drip the water back up to full or run a continuous drip in with an overflow?

Continuous with overflow in sump

6. Do you drip straight tap water (dechlorinated) or mix with RO/DI systems and if so what percentage of mix?

I drip strait from the water supply, NO filters Nothing at all, strait water lines to my sump

I'm curious of what their water parameters are. Some people have indicated ph around 8. Are you concerned with other water parameters such as TDS, hardness / alkalinity, ect? Any supply water parameters / conditions that you pay particular attention to other than stable PH, nitrates, etc and adjust your drip rates accordingly? I've not included ammonia and nitrites as I consider this more filtration management and not supply waterquality.

I only watch my nitrates; I really do not bother with anything else as I know it’s always Zero when I test ammonia and nitrites. When I test Nitrates they are always 5-10, yes I could probably back off a little on my drip but I am ok with how they are and the overall cost currently.


With high drip rates, anyone experiencing challenges with maintaining tank temperature? I'm guessing everyone just uses bigger / more heaters? Anyone incorporating a heat exchanger off a recirculating line on their hot water tank to pre-warm the incoming water?

I actually drip hot and cold water together to heat my system and it does really well; the gas hot water heater does all the heating for the system. Recently I got a larger gas hot water heater and it seemed a little more expensive to run (bigger burner and what)so I have heaters that I was using for a little during the really cold winter months to use a little of electric heat and water heat. But that was right at the end of last winter so this year I will play with it a little more, As I have been adding more and more gallons of water I have had to make little adjustments. This winter I plan to drip very little cold water as the water gets super cold around here and see if I can keep heating only with my gas hot water heater.
 
Here is a look at my ph and temp, it changes with the outside temp as I have windows open and as I said how cold the water gets in the water lines, Ph changes with food and other stuff, AS you can see the overall change value is very little.

Temp and PH System.jpg

Temp and PH System.jpg
 
jim barry said:
I run a 3 pod HMA and have never dosed with conditioner. This is what the 3 stage HMA is supposed to remove, works very very well for me.

5 micron rated sediment filter

This is effective in removing dirt,rust and sand particles


Carbon block filter,

Removes
gardia,cryptosporidiumcysts,pesticides,chlorine,Mtbe,trihalomethanes,pesticides,herbicides,benzene,randon, volatile organic chemicals



Gac Carbon filter,

Removes
MtBE, Trihalomethanes, Pesticides, Herbicides, Benzene, Radon, and countless Volatile Organic Chemicals.
Click to expand...
So the carbon block will remove chlorine as well as chloramine? Been on the fence about setting up a drip, but I recently moved to a location with chloramine in the water.
 
I have well water (very hard). I split 50/50 now being straight well water and pure RO/DI. The water is dripped into a 110 gal holding tank and heated/aerated. The holding tank has a pump in it that is engaged by a ATO on my main 300 gal ray tank. The main tank has a return pump that is split and ball valved to a household drain. I drain about 30-40 gal a day. When ever my sump level lowers to a certain point it engages the pump in my holding tank and sends over my mixed and heated water. Has worked well up to now although the size of tank needs to get bigger so onto the next project! 300 gal up to probably 1400 gal now.


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stingray keeper said:
I have well water (very hard). I split 50/50 now being straight well water and pure RO/DI. The water is dripped into a 110 gal holding tank and heated/aerated. The holding tank has a pump in it that is engaged by a ATO on my main 300 gal ray tank. The main tank has a return pump that is split and ball valved to a household drain. I drain about 30-40 gal a day. When ever my sump level lowers to a certain point it engages the pump in my holding tank and sends over my mixed and heated water. Has worked well up to now although the size of tank needs to get bigger so onto the next project! 300 gal up to probably 1400 gal now.


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Click to expand...

Don't you find the di resin burns out to fast

My twin RO membranes pump out a tds of 4 with my booster pump on at 80psi but it's on a timer and runs for 1 hour then shuts down for 30 mins it goes on and off like that 24/7
The problem is when it's off the tds goes up to12ppm and this kills the resin

I just didn't see the point in spend money on resin to get 0 tds when you are still pumping in water with a tds of 150+


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My sediment filters are starting to turn yellow/brown so i deff have crap in my water. Also since i added these all of my tanks have turned crystal crystal clear.

Thanks JK!


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