Drip System Poll

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Can you give me some info on this? I am playing with the idea of going for an ro drip. Any links would be appreciated.
Don't really have any links. Just went with it. My water is garbage without it... Basically just using a 100gpd ro unit and straight output in the tank. Some people it's bad some say it's good. I've had a great experience so far all fish and rays are way more active and eating eat more. Apparently Rays have 2-300 microsiemens of hardness in the wild so it's natural that 2,000 microsiemens would cause some issues....only been about 3 months so we'll see but tank is almost perfect parameters.
 
Can you give me some info on this? I am playing with the idea of going for an ro drip. Any links would be appreciated.

I dont have any links and I don't know of any that I'm aware of, I'm sure someone else has done this before I just kind of came up with it on my own. It's a pretty simple process I use. At the time I started doing it no one that I know of was doing a pure RO drip, and people who tried it were not having success. They were dealing with pH crashes and other issues. Or they mixed RO water and regular tap water to keep it "more stable, and save on filters." I frankly don't see the point in mixing water, it sounds like more trouble than its worth, and it's not giving you a pure soft water source. Rays prefer and thrive in soft water, period. Some may argue that rays can and will adapt to anything. Yea that's fairly true, most animals can adapt to new conditions with ease, doesn't mean they prefer it. They key difference here is thrive vs tollerate.

Mixing was not an option for me with my well water being so horrible. Well tap pH was about 8.8 and had ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates. So I installed a whole house water softener and a 100 gpd 6 stage RO/DI unit to filter my tank water. I started off just making what water I needed and using it for water changes, but as we all know that gets old when your doing water changes daily or every couple days. My thought was, well I am using a pure RO water source for water changes... Whats the difference in dripping it if you keep the pH stable? So I started dripping one day and never looked back.

When I started dripping straight cold RO/DI filtered water, to keep my pH stable I added seashells in my sump as a buffer. I believe this is the key to stability. These naturally breakdown over the course of months, and must be replenished. You dont need alot, depends on the size of your system. Mine is about 300 gallons total and i only use a handfull at a time.
But wait? Don't sea shells or calcium carbonate raise your pH and make your water harder? Yes they do. But I thought we were trying to achieve a softer water? Yes we are but the key is to make sure your pH stays stable and does not fluctuate around a whole lot. Dripping straight RO water at a pH of 6 can be dangerous if left unchecked. You would also be suprised how much your pH fluctuates day in and day out based on fresh air surrounding the tank, light passing through the water, and day/night cycle. With the shells added to my system it keeps me at 6.1-6.3 pretty consistantly.

I also have driftwood in my main display and in the refugium with java moss and Anubias nana to suck up the Nitrates. My rays and the other South American fish love it. Doing the timeline I have been running this system for over 2 years with zero issues. Occasionally I vaccum debris out of the sump and main display.

On my RO unit, which I run a booster pump on to keep the pressure high... I change the sediment filter about once a month and carbons about once every 2 months. The DI resin I change once it fully changes to the exhausted color. As far as the main membrane I change that once my outgoing TDS starts to climb. On average that only needs to get changed out once a year or so.

Hope this helps and answers your questions.
 
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It helped a bunch. My concern going in was that I would have to premix then pump water in, instead of being able to run in off the cold line. I have a water softener in my home, and I'm not real keen on constantly having salt in my tanks. The easiest ways around this are running an ro drip and eliminating water changes, or using potassium instead of sodium in the water softener. I'm still researching and haven't come to a conclusion yet. Ph crashes are to be expected without buffers because the kh in ro water is low (nonexistent?) but like you've experienced proper buffers go a long way in maintaining a stable ph. Thank you for taking the time to write this up.
 
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LOL That's alot of setups!

thanks! i have a 1400 not on the drip and 3,500 half built lol... never enough tanks! I will say autodrips changed my fish life tho. def a must. Interested in what everybodys running pre filtration wise and how often you change ur sediment/hma filters per gph.
 
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It helped a bunch. My concern going in was that I would have to premix then pump water in, instead of being able to run in off the cold line. I have a water softener in my home, and I'm not real keen on constantly having salt in my tanks. The easiest ways around this are running an ro drip and eliminating water changes, or using potassium instead of sodium in the water softener. I'm still researching and haven't come to a conclusion yet. Ph crashes are to be expected without buffers because the kh in ro water is low (nonexistent?) but like you've experienced proper buffers go a long way in maintaining a stable ph. Thank you for taking the time to write this up.
You are welcome! You also touched on some points I left out about hardness!
 
You are welcome! You also touched on some points I left out about hardness!

Do you measure your tds out of curiosity? I haven't done a proper test yet, and I don't have an ro unit which makes things a bit more difficult. I would interested to see if your tds rises at all. It might be worth mentioning that you would be safer if tds stays at zero, in the event that you were to run out of buffers. This is as I understand it anyway, I've still got a lot to learn about water chemistry though. Out of curiosity do you, or anyone, know if acidic buffers like tannins act as a buffer in the same capacity as seashells? I'm not sure if tannins would effect the kh the same way seashells would, and instead of stabilizing ph it would instead draw the ph towards whatever ph tannins are. This is me sort of thinking it through and looking for affirmation if I go down this route. A blackwater tank is certainly on my to do list, so it's all sort of towards that end as well.
 
It helped a bunch. My concern going in was that I would have to premix then pump water in, instead of being able to run in off the cold line. I have a water softener in my home, and I'm not real keen on constantly having salt in my tanks. The easiest ways around this are running an ro drip and eliminating water changes, or using potassium instead of sodium in the water softener. I'm still researching and haven't come to a conclusion yet. Ph crashes are to be expected without buffers because the kh in ro water is low (nonexistent?) but like you've experienced proper buffers go a long way in maintaining a stable ph. Thank you for taking the time to write this up.

A water softner DOES NOT put salt in water. A water softner uses the the salt to clean the resin media in softner to clean the minerals collected upon the resin. Once the resin media is cleaned, the minerals and salt are flushed out into a drain -not- used for consumption, etc. I use a softner to remove the minerals as rays tend to live in water with less minerals. My softner also removes phosphates and iron.....which are contributors to algae growth. It also lowers my ph.

The biggest misunderstanding of water softners is most people think it is creating salt water......not true. If u r softner is doing this, there is a problem.

I've been using soft water for over a year for my rays with no problems.
 
A water softner DOES NOT put salt in water. A water softner uses the the salt to clean the resin media in softner to clean the minerals collected upon the resin. Once the resin media is cleaned, the minerals and salt are flushed out into a drain -not- used for consumption, etc. I use a softner to remove the minerals as rays tend to live in water with less minerals. My softner also removes phosphates and iron.....which are contributors to algae growth. It also lowers my ph.

The biggest misunderstanding of water softners is most people think it is creating salt water......not true. If u r softner is doing this, there is a problem.

I've been using soft water for over a year for my rays with no problems.

I have found a lot of conflicting information on this, and continue to research. I've also kept my rays in it with no ill effects that I can tell of. Will a water softener not raise tds then? I'll have to play around with my system and do some tests when I have time. Perhaps the potassium chloride would be an expensive waste, I know it can be used by plants which would make it more ideal than any salt.
 
I have found a lot of conflicting information on this, and continue to research. I've also kept my rays in it with no ill effects that I can tell of. Will a water softener not raise tds then? I'll have to play around with my system and do some tests when I have time. Perhaps the potassium chloride would be an expensive waste, I know it can be used by plants which would make it more ideal than any salt.

I did the research prior to installing a softner. Who wants to drink salt water, not me lol. Plumber confirmed same (as noted before) upon installing. He said the salt simply serves as cleaning agent /magnet to remove minerals from collecting resin. If you think about it, the salt is only used during the softner's flushing / cleaning cycle.
 
Woefulrelic Woefulrelic my thought on tds with regard to a softner is .......a softner will reduce tds' in water, at least lower than hard water, but not as low as ro or distilled water and put the amount somewhere in middle....hopefully just right?
 
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