The mixing valves typically dont work under 0.5gpm, you would either have to drip 750 gpd or run a return loop after the mixing valve
Drip system?
- Thread starter specialized002
- Start date
How about 800w for that size of tank? Am I short of what I should have? My basement is about 64 degrees so I only need to heat 18-20 degrees. Is it hurting me to have it in the sump or should it be ok?
Does anyone else feel weary using water from a hot water tank? Mine is 4 years old with a fresh anode and it's roughly 200ppm higher in tds after letting the samples sit 24 hours, all of which I'm assuming are metals.
Instead of adding hot water, I'm planning on doing a heat exchanger from the hot water tank eventually to save some electric.
Instead of adding hot water, I'm planning on doing a heat exchanger from the hot water tank eventually to save some electric.
There is nothing wrong with using water from the heater if it is clean. I put a new water heater in last year and drain the tank every two months just to have it ready for hooking to the drip.
I actually dont wanna use the hot water but last night I tried dripping hot water into my heat exchanger just for the hell of it and this morning my tank was 82 degrees, 4 more than what I usually keep it at. Pretty effective so I think ill setup a way to run hot water through a line submerged in my sump or setup another way to use the hot water to preheat the incoming water even more after its warmed by my heat exhanger.
They clog. Are not consistent flow wise.
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Good info, thanks for sharing
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Might have thought of a solution. Recirculate the outflow back to the cold side to get the needed flow for the valve to work. This would also save the energy used to heat the water by slightly preheating the cold input and not having to reheat it on the hot side. Would still need the prevalve loop on the hot side but there would be very little loss there. Might need a small accumulator on the cold side to keep the pump running smoothly.
