Dual Drilled 1.5" Overflow Design Question - Fail Proof?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Consigliere;3000345; said:
If I put a siphon break on the inside of the tank on the top return will this break the siphon so that the bottom return (submerged) will not flood back to the sump?
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Each one will need its own syphon break.
 
You might want to consider adding a pump station/lift station. I use one to pump my waste water up to the attic.

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You just need a pump, tank, and float switch. The check valve in the picture went bad after about 1 1/2 years.
 
Man lots of cool ideas. Appreciate all the input Chompers. I'm thinking I will redesign the tank as it is still in the drawing phase. I'm thinking my original idea of having return and overflows at high and low levels to have good currents in the tank is less useful and should design the system around the plumbing. I love the loop that allows for 30% water change.

I'm thinking now of having two overflows with the same standpipe design but have the overflows in top right and left corners. Also, add one more in bottom left or right corner with plumbing loops that will allow for full tank drain and a 30-50% water change level with ball valves for control. Likely will run one the bottom overflow at low output to have some water removal from the bottom.

Then have 2 returns at different heights and custom drilled spray bars for good water distribution and currents.

All this has got me thinking I may take my dad up on his offer for a free PLC and look at automating this stuff. Funny how much the scope of a project increases as you get into it.
 
I guess the trick on the return that is low in the tank is to have the hole drilled high and plumb it down into the tank and have the siphon break in the plumbing. Wanted to have as little as possible in the tank but that may be the best option instead of counting on check valves. Or go to 1 return up top.
 
If you wanted to add a plumbing line to connect an aquarium vac to, would you just install a T into the lower end of the overflow to sump line with ball valve on the vacuum line side of the T and an air relief line drilled into the top of the vacuum line at its max height?

Would this be enough to start a siphon if you put the vacuum into the tank and then opened the ball valve?
 
Consigliere;3000755; said:
If you wanted to add a plumbing line to connect an aquarium vac to, would you just install a T into the lower end of the overflow to sump line with ball valve on the vacuum line side of the T and an air relief line drilled into the top of the vacuum line at its max height?

Would this be enough to start a siphon if you put the vacuum into the tank and then opened the ball valve?
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That's a really good idea. To make it work, you would want a dedicated line with the ball valve at the sump. It would need to be a small diameter so to not lose the syphon when the valve is opened. You could either use a quick disconnect (available from the swimming pool industry) or use a threaded fitting to screw into the bulkhead. I've found that you will need to make your own gravel vac because I haven't found a suitable one for a 250g.

If you plumb the overflows with one ball valve, you could just use that to vaccuum the tank if you don't mind readjusting the valve before and after cleaning the tank.
 
Thanks for all the info again Chompers. Cool tank, love the UGJ system. Have heard conflicting reports on how they work for planted tanks so I don't think I will look to implement that.

I have one last question though. With an overflow with all plumbing other than bulkhead outside the tank and a U with air line drilled in the top, (ie bulkhead below the U) does the siphon break when the water level drops below the U? That's what I am assuming as there is now not enough hydrostatic pressure to push the water up and air can now enter.
 
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