Dual sump irrigation questions

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Wow nice work, thanks :)

You're definately right about ordering from them direct - the price they quoted (with shipping to Australia & conversion rates) is cheap enough to buy two extra, for the same cost as having them shipped from the site I posted which is domestic.

I'm thinking this is the right way to go :)

A question I have for them - can the pipes be easily removed on purpose? This would make life a lot simpler for removing the bins from the cabinet if needed.
 
Removed yes, reinserted probably not as much :)

The bigger the pipe the harder it is to get in. 50mm shouldn't be too bad but I would still spring for a union, they are designed specifically with disconnecting and re-connecting in mind, and 50mm is before they get really expensive.

Let me know if you get them and I'll try to get together some installation tips (wife is calling me away right now.)
 
In true DIY style, I've decided to get more ambitious. Now it will be three bins, the cabinet beneath the tank has three compartments the same size.

At this stage, I'm thinking the middle bin will be for water only - that way I can use it as a grow out tank, and quaranteen tank if needed. This will be achieved by a pipe connecting bin1 (filtration and heating) to bin2, and then connecting bin2 to bin3 (the deep sand bed).

Through the use of a compression coupling or a slip fix, bin1 and bin3 will be connected in the event that bin2 is used as a quarenteen tank. These items will be sourced from http://reticonline.com.au/cw135/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_6

The connection between bin2 and bin3 will have a barrel union, depending on space - the clearance is about 15cm between bins.

Sounds good? :)

Also, when installing uniseals the website states that detergent is to be used as lubricant, however on inserting it comes off - what your experience with this? I'm concerned about detergent in the water!
 
Also with this setup, are baffles needed? The pipes will be near the top of the bins anyway so it doesn't seem they will be needed, beyond the filter media compartment.

I will be placing cowl vents over the ends of the pipes in bin2 to prevent unauthorised escapes.
 
I don't really have any experience with compression fittings, so maybe some else will chime in about that.

As to installing the uniseals, anything more slippery than water will work. I usually put some silicone on them as lube then let it cure before filling with water - that way I know it will be fish safe. Make sure that you bevel the edges of the pipe as much as you can, that makes all the difference in the world.
 
I don't really have any experience with compression fittings, so maybe some else will chime in about that.

As to installing the uniseals, anything more slippery than water will work. I usually put some silicone on them as lube then let it cure before filling with water - that way I know it will be fish safe. Make sure that you bevel the edges of the pipe as much as you can, that makes all the difference in the world.
 
Actually I won't need a fancy coupling, just a regular one - the point is to prevent water from bin2 getting into the other bins, if it's used as a quarenteen tank. To do so, I just need to lower its water - then I can join the pipe from Bin1 to Bin3 with some regular couplings and let it leak a little :)

I just ordered my uniseals - by the time they get here, everything will be prepped and good to go (assuming I don't get another bright idea ;)
 
Forgot to mention I'm thinking about using spray foam on the bottom of the bins as they have a 2cm gap - the sides touch the ground, but the middle doesn't. They've got a bit of give, but probably not enough to constantly stand 50kilos of water.

I do however have sheets of styofoam which I've cut to size inside the cabinet areas. I'm thinking placing down a couple of appropriately sized slats on top of them, to fit between the space of the bin and the styofoam, would work as well as spray foam for what I'm after.
 
Finally got the pump in the mail today, still waiting on the uniseals!

I'm thinking about using micron socks on one of my overflows - I've made two, one to skim the water at the top of the tank and one to skim the water at the bottom. The bottom skimmer is the one I think would be best to use a sock on, as it will scoop up much more crud (as is its purpose).

The idea is to use several t-connectors - at the bottom of the pipe, where it meets the sump, it will end in a t-connection with a sock on each end. In case I get lazy with emptying them, this t-connector will be joined to the pipe by another t-connector whose 'bottom' part of the T faces up. In theory, the socks normally allow enough flow and so no water comes out of this one, but if they don't then it quickly overflows into the sump.

The question is what size would be good to use. I'd rather not empty the socks every other day and am happy letting some go through for the filter wool and matrix. I think where I need a much finer sock would be going from Bin1 to Bin2, and then maybe even a finer sock going from Bin2 to Bin3.

As the pump will be in the sand bed, I'd also like to cover its inlet with a sock - I have some, but I'm not sure how many microns they are! I figure if the pump is raised on several layers of eggcrate than the sand won't ever stir enough to get into the pump anyways!

On a side note, this project is spiralling out of control. I've now committed to the following DIY projects:

1) uninterrupted power supply for an air pump
2) cathode moon lighting
3) styrofoam background
4) spray foam rock sculptures
5) glass tank covers

All this from reading the site and being inspired! This project has already cost more than the tank itself, though I did get it second hand at half price :D Mind you, I've spent more on the fish than the tank and the DIY combined, so I suppose it's worth it - especially if I can grow out the plecos and get them to breed ;)
 
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