I really don't like living in kansas. The only thing keeping me here is that I have a really good job that I would be an idiot to give up. Otherwise, i'd be gone in a heartbeat. I really hope they transfer me to one of the other mines eventually, or send me to work at the corporate office.
Either my test kit is broken, or I have some serious problems.
- Thread starter Carefree_Dude
- Start date
80 ppm isn't really all that severe.
many ppl have fish here in much higher nitrates than that with no problems, even including breeding.
many ppl have fish here in much higher nitrates than that with no problems, even including breeding.
Yeah, nitrates in FW aren't nearly as crucial as in SW.
But ... you said the test kit you have is only a month old. But how long did it sit on the shelf? I know these kits have a certain shelf life. Or at least that's what I've been told.
Personally, I think you're sweatin' for no reason. 80ppm is not really all THAT high.
But ... you said the test kit you have is only a month old. But how long did it sit on the shelf? I know these kits have a certain shelf life. Or at least that's what I've been told.
Personally, I think you're sweatin' for no reason. 80ppm is not really all THAT high.
Carefree_Dude;5090340; said:
Hope it works out for you. Life is too short to live somewhere you hate!
i had (have) an ammonia problem in my tap water so we bought an RO/DI system. at first we just went to the water store and bought 5 gallon bottles of water for $1 each. but the first RO/DI system we bought we got for $50 and we just replaced the particulate filters for less than $25, and kept on using the RO membrane and the DI resin that was already there.
those deals are few and far between.. but i got a nice little 100 gpd system on ebay from filter direct that was only $117 (at the time). i just upgraded a little bit and got a 150 gpd system a few months ago and it makes all the difference, i can do a 25% water change on my 210 in 8 hours even after having the system running for at least 4 months..
take my advice.. get the largest system that you can afford. there is a nice 300 gpd system that i should have got instead, but i didn't find it until i had ordered the 150 gpd system that i have now.
when i get the 800 gallon tank set up i'm going to use the old 100 gpd system to set up an automatic water change system and continue using the 150 gpd system for cooking and such.
those deals are few and far between.. but i got a nice little 100 gpd system on ebay from filter direct that was only $117 (at the time). i just upgraded a little bit and got a 150 gpd system a few months ago and it makes all the difference, i can do a 25% water change on my 210 in 8 hours even after having the system running for at least 4 months..
take my advice.. get the largest system that you can afford. there is a nice 300 gpd system that i should have got instead, but i didn't find it until i had ordered the 150 gpd system that i have now.
when i get the 800 gallon tank set up i'm going to use the old 100 gpd system to set up an automatic water change system and continue using the 150 gpd system for cooking and such.
wait, i've been under the impression anything over 20ppm is bad. what is a safe level of nitrate for fish?
Carefree_Dude;5091152; said:
I've seen a lot of mixed answers about it, I just try and keep mine under 40ppm...
I had the same problem with one of my hagen test kits. Bought another hagen one, same problem. Switched to API like they use at the LFS around here and no problem.
The hagen ones were expired so I guess it was my fault. What is the expiry date on it? I have seen test kits that expired in 2009 still for sale around here
The hagen ones were expired so I guess it was my fault. What is the expiry date on it? I have seen test kits that expired in 2009 still for sale around here
I was going to ask about the expiration date, but I couldn't find one of the bottles themselves... I throw about the boxes and just put all my bottles into a ziplock bag.. the actual expiration date is probably on the box itself...
