im now starting to see wrigglers in some of the pits they dug, only 30-40 are visible!
Electric Blue Jack Dempsey Breeding Project (photos)
- Thread starter CTC
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What is your typical timeline for fry food? I have been feeding hikari first bites. I need to get BBS! When can they eat crushed flakes?
Well, they are able to eat crushed flakes, but they tend to do much better with live food.
I start BBS once they are free swimming and feed BBS at least twice a day, more when I can, to keep their bellies full.
I don't use crushed flakes. When they get large enough, I transition to the mini Hikari cichlid pellets.
I start BBS once they are free swimming and feed BBS at least twice a day, more when I can, to keep their bellies full.
I don't use crushed flakes. When they get large enough, I transition to the mini Hikari cichlid pellets.
I moved the fry to a grow out tank. When I did this the male became territorial and aggressive toward the female, keeping her locked in a corner of the tank. Does this happen after each spawn? It’s similar behavior he had towards her before they paired. I had to add 5 other smaller Dempsey to divert his aggression last time. Do I have to do this every time? .....
Taking all fry away from a pair of (any) cichlid, often causes the male to kill the female (or vice versa). If removing fry, I find it is best to leave a small group (maybe 10) with the pair, which may prevent aggression. And I often find those 10 grow faster, and stronger than the removed fry, especially if the main tank has lots of algae, and learned to allow fry tanks to become overgrown with algae, this allows constant grazing between feedings, and the algae, helps remove nutrients like nitrate. And especially for omnivores like JDs, algae is a major part of the diet
I also like to feed with a pipette or turkey baster, to get as much food into the shoal of fry where it is easily found, and mix newly hatched artemia with pureed food to help the new fry associate live with non-live food.
If your male doesn't kill the female in the interum, they may often spawn again in 10 days to a few weeks.
When eggs are about to hatch to wrigglers,I start artemia hatching stations, one, then another a couple days later so when one becomes exhausted, another becomes ready.
And as stated above, you may also want a couple fry rearing tanks, where you separate the obvious EB fry from the more normal ones, given the opportunity, the normal fry will often take out the less robust EB fry.
I also like to feed with a pipette or turkey baster, to get as much food into the shoal of fry where it is easily found, and mix newly hatched artemia with pureed food to help the new fry associate live with non-live food.
If your male doesn't kill the female in the interum, they may often spawn again in 10 days to a few weeks.
When eggs are about to hatch to wrigglers,I start artemia hatching stations, one, then another a couple days later so when one becomes exhausted, another becomes ready.
And as stated above, you may also want a couple fry rearing tanks, where you separate the obvious EB fry from the more normal ones, given the opportunity, the normal fry will often take out the less robust EB fry.
My fish spawned again about 10 days later. I am letting a separate fry tank become overrun with algae. Do you allow both green and brown algae to grow in the fry tank for them to feed on?Taking all fry away from a pair of (any) cichlid, often causes the male to kill the female (or vice versa). If removing fry, I find it is best to leave a small group (maybe 10) with the pair, which may prevent aggression. And I often find those 10 grow faster, and stronger than the removed fry, especially if the main tank has lots of algae, and learned to allow fry tanks to become overgrown with algae, this allows constant grazing between feedings, and the algae, helps remove nutrients like nitrate. And especially for omnivores like JDs, algae is a major part of the diet
I also like to feed with a pipette or turkey baster, to get as much food into the shoal of fry where it is easily found, and mix newly hatched artemia with pureed food to help the new fry associate live with non-live food.
If your male doesn't kill the female in the interum, they may often spawn again in 10 days to a few weeks.
When eggs are about to hatch to wrigglers,I start artemia hatching stations, one, then another a couple days later so when one becomes exhausted, another becomes ready.
And as stated above, you may also want a couple fry rearing tanks, where you separate the obvious EB fry from the more normal ones, given the opportunity, the normal fry will often take out the less robust EB fry.
I also ordered BBS hatchery for this batch. Hopefully it goes much smoother than the last batch!
