Electric blue Jack Dempsey

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
You could always go with Electric Blue Acara(s). They’re as hardy/healthy as the traditional Blue Acara and display superb colors. I’ve kept them over the years and really enjoy the species. They’re a very inquisitive fish and always begging for food. The best part is that they do well in groups. Just a thought….
I'm usually inclined to stay away from Cichlids with my Clown Loaches but I wonder If they are mellow enough and would leave them alone?
 
I'm usually inclined to stay away from Cichlids with my Clown Loaches but I wonder If they are mellow enough and would leave them alone?
In my experience, they’re pretty calm. However, if a breeding pair were to spawn, you’d certainly have some aggression issues. Otherwise, they pretty much keep to themselves.
 
In my experience, they’re pretty calm. However, if a breeding pair were to spawn, you’d certainly have some aggression issues. Otherwise, they pretty much keep to themselves.
I Don't mean to hijack this thread but, if the OP doesn't mind me asking one more question;
If I were to consider the Acara in a 75 with a group of juvenile CLs with at least 10yrs before they get anywhere near needing room, how many should I put together 3 perhaps?
 
Everything im reading says they are genetically predisposed to all kinds of ailments....I would pass on having one.
As Jexnell said, that individual was a good one.
And it is important in any breeding project that only robust individuals are used, even though it may be hard to know what the meaning of that robustness may be.

An example might be....... say you have a spawning pairs of Herichthys cyanoguttatus, Gymnogeophagus, or Australoheros sp.
Normally, healthy individuals of these cichlids can handle temps down to about 50'F (sometimes lower)
In order to keep a population of individuals that maintain that amount of genetic resilience, it may be necessary to subject a spawn to a few lengthy drops in temp, allowing the weak ones to be culled out semi-naturally, and only the most resilient individuals to survive.
And only choosing pairs as breeders, that can handle that type temp variations.
I have done these experiments with Herichthys carpintus, Gymnogeophagus quilero, and Astraloheros "red ceibal", by moving fry and juvies to outdoor ponds in WI where temp variations where fairly drastic, those not strong enough, bite the dust.
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Ceibals above brought in from a seasons grout, out side, carpintus below.
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I know when my cichlids spawn, or when I buy a group, I'd rather end up with fewer vibrant, strong individuals, than 100 or 200 that are weak, or to buy those that become subject to lack of disease resistance somewhere down the road.
 
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