Electricity Bill

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
BRich- Have you plugged your Reeflo Hammerhead Gold (HHG) into a Kill-o-watt? I just did and was shocked to see that my HHG is drawing 331 watts! This despite the highest advertised watt draw (at any head) being 297 watts. I'm running mine at 9' of head and according to Reeflo's own curve chart, the pump should only be drawing 291 watts. Might not seem like a big deal, but at my electric rates, 40watts running 24/7 (28.8Kwh) = $10 per month. Not too happy about that.

I remember reading something about that. Basically it comes down to the standard formula to determine watts of Volts x amps = Watts does not apply to electric motors. Pumps are tested and rated using a constant voltage, whereas in your house it may fluctuate, along with varying power factor of an electrical motor. So....what the manufacturer says in terms of watts will hardly ever be what you realize at home.
 
This is why volts x amps = watts does not work for electric motors:

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]POWER FACTOR[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Perhaps the greatest confusion arises due to the fact that early in our science educations, we were told that the formula for watts was amps times volts. This formula, watts = amps x volts, is perfectly true for direct current circuits. It also works on some AC loads such as incandescent light bulbs, quartz heaters, electric range heating elements, and other equipment of this general nature. However, when the loads involve a characteristic called inductance, the formula has to be altered to include a new term called power factor. Thus, the new formula for single phase loads becomes, watts are equal to amps x volts x power factor. The new term, power factor, is always involved in applications where AC power is used and inductive magnetic elements exist in the circuit. Inductive elements are magnetic devices such as solenoid coils, motor windings, transformer windings, fluorescent lamp ballasts, and similar equipment that have magnetic components as part of their design.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Looking at the electrical flow into this type of device, we would find that there are, in essence, two components. One portion is absorbed and utilized to do useful work. This portion is called the real power. The second portion is literally borrowed from the power company and used to magnetize the magnetic portion of the circuit. Due to the reversing nature of AC power, this borrowed power is subsequently returned to the power system when the AC cycle reverses. This borrowing and returning occurs on a continuous basis. Power factor then becomes a measurement of the amount of real power that is used, divided by the total amount of power, both borrowed and used. Values for power factor will range from zero to 1.0. If all the power is borrowed and returned with none being used, the power factor would be zero. If on the other hand, all of the power drawn from the power line is utilized and none is returned, the power factor becomes 1.0. In the case of electric heating elements, incandescent light bulbs, etc., the power factor is 1.0. In the case of electric motors, the power factor is variable and changes with the amount of load that is applied to the motor. Thus, a motor running on a work bench, with no load applied to the shaft, will have a low power factor (perhaps .1 or 10%), and a motor running at full load, connected to a pump or a fan might have a relatively high power factor (perhaps .88 or 88%). Between the no load point and the full load point, the power factor increases steadily with the horsepower loading that is applied to the motor. These trends can be seen on the typical motor performance data plots which are shown in figure 1.[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]http://www.motorsanddrives.com/cowern/motorterms16.html
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I tried those cheap lame energy efficient light bulbs, they are crap at lighting up a room and it takes a while before it actually lights up. I'll stick with my real light bulbs.
 
I tried those cheap lame energy efficient light bulbs, they are crap at lighting up a room and it takes a while before it actually lights up. I'll stick with my real light bulbs.

yeah but they're great when you first wake up in the morning! you can acclimatise with the light:ROFL:
I replaced the halogen bulbs we use in the house (kitchen, bathroom, stairs) with LED bulbs and have to say they are a more attractive glow and they running costs are cheaper.

I don't think its all about out fish tanks. Nearly anything you buy now has to be recharged. We have toothbrushes, ipods, ipod touches, mobile phones, Nintendo DS, hair clippers etc. constantly charging. We even charge rechargeable batteries all the time because nearly all the kids toys need batteries. For Gods at night the damn bedrooms lit up a runway landing strip and makes getting to sleep impossible :nilly:
 
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