Elements into keeping peacock bass.
- Thread starter Phillis
- Start date
Tongue i think that you should explain what you think or what i should add or you think im "Doing Wrong" so that you could add it peoples knowledge of this fish if you think this is a game and im trying to win something by using my time to post a thread that took me a while to gather my info on for free your horribley mistaken and wrong...
good day.
good day.
hi im new to MFK but not to fish all i can say that you could improve on is your feeding optimal health and coloration as well as actions come from variaties of food not just 1 for the whole week you could try krill/shrimp as a suplement along with ther bloodworms that would be better. but if they wont hit pellets mabey there too small?
another post here said that there are meds that remove heavy metals i say: yes they do to a point they only hide them for a while but then they will show up agian if you think about it only a heavy metal can iliminate a heavy metal so if those meds do remove heavy metals it has to add stress to your fish which i dont think is neccisary.
another post here said that there are meds that remove heavy metals i say: yes they do to a point they only hide them for a while but then they will show up agian if you think about it only a heavy metal can iliminate a heavy metal so if those meds do remove heavy metals it has to add stress to your fish which i dont think is neccisary.
Basstrainer;1910466; said:Im seeing alot of people asking about peacock bass with ich and how keep them without disease these important Elements are your key.
water:
If your water is tap it may be a main reason that your peacock bass are getting ich and possibley dieing. Some states usually have too hard of water (cali, hawaii orgeon, arizona etc. most west coast countrys but east cost is better in some ways.) and it usually has heavy metals(not good), to make sure the water does remain pure good for humans but not necissarly good for peacock bass specialy at small size the hardness and heavy metals could cause a overload in stress becoming a main cause of ich. make sure your water its Soft, softer water is there native water how you get soft water is to buy R/O(reverse Osmosis) water, R/O water helps them retain from ich at small size and it lowers fatality rate plus gives your fish way better color!
Tongue33=IN my Experience this is False.And really doesn't have much to do with ich.
gravel:
try to make it river gravel like pebbles. as for it will make the pH more neutral. Add Aquarium salt as for that helps prevent disease and natrual stress remedy. raise the temp to 84-86 that will help too.
try to have double the regular filteration. and make sure you have allot of oxygen in your tank becasue if they do get ich, ich can hurt there breathing so the air will help them. if there having trouble breathing follow this guide and i will assure you if you get healthy fish they wont die.
Tongue33=
This one is confusing... Unless someone is using peat moss or coral/crushed coral for substrate......
By the way:
some species are more tolerant to hard water then others i have heard that ocell can tolerate 1/3 tap 2/3 soft but tem and most others need 3/3 soft. But agian they very amoung species do you know what yours are(my point is that soft water is better than tap)? But if you want the color and health R/O is the way to go. you can get R/O from a nearby lfs ask them if they have the machine to make it its usually 30-45cents a gallon. if they don't have any go to a vons/staters bro and they have these water machines that people fill with water. those are R/O i think.. and just bring allot of water bottles and fill it and treat it with AQ salt and your minerals. then just drop it in your tank.
Tongue33=This one has no real factual basis or information on actual needs... Nor is it accurate and also will help the new hobbiest kill their Cichla faster than doing what they are doing already.. Since the only info is "Go get R/O And throw it in your tank" When you get into telling a hobbiest to use R/O It is best not to explain WHY... But HOW. And R/O water from personal experience is not going to give you half the results in COLOR... As good diet, or using the R/O correctly
Food:
try to get your fish to eat forzen foods instead of live. Most peacock bass will gladly except live or frozen bloodworms. if yours only eats live then there are other threads here that will gladly explain steps how to convert them off of it. If they eat pellets thats great and better. but you dont want to feed them live as for it has little or no nutritional value and full of fat and possibley parasites if you just must feed them live for the excitement of fish vs. fish get a QT tank and stock it with live feeders and wait a month or couple weeks if the ones alive are probabley parasite free.
This is COMPLETELY personal preference and opinion.. As Feeding live IS very nutritional and and not FULL of Fat
here is a routine that i use works for me:
gives emm great color and less worry of parasites.
monday:Bloodsworms (frozen cubes)--once morning once night
tuesday:Bloodworms (forzen cubes)-- once morning once night
wensday:Bloodworms (forzen cubes)-- once morning once night
thursday:Bloodworms (forzen cubes)-- once morning once night
Friday:Bloodworms (forzen cubes)-- ONLY MORNING. QT Feeder Guppys (treat and need to feed cause i have payara in the tank that only eat live trying to get them off live but there bein picky.)
Sat:Bloodworms (forzen cubes)-- once morning once night
sun:Bloodworms (forzen cubes)-- once morning once night
Cleaning:
you never want to do more than a 25-30% water change it will cause stress and that could lead to disease. always have 0 ammonia and pretty much have good water.
Tank Size/enviornment:
the average tank size for a fully grown adult would be 250G. bigger the better ofcourse.
Peacock bass come from waters filled with places to hide and somewhat plants. try to add plants to your tank and caves and bogwood/drift wood just good looking decor.
What is they get ich?
http://www.cureforich.com/ this link is all you need for help on curing it.
any questions or comments just Pm me. Good luck with your fish.
And to add.... Most that have contracted ich in the past month have had temperatures not only below... But way below 82 F which is stated on many sites to be lethal and un livable temp for ich... Hence temps above 82 are not only Natural for Cichla.. BUT they are also a deterrent to contracting ich
You will notice that most Cichla keepers suggest above 86-90 F.And in the disease section WE have HERE excellent info on curing ich in more than one way
This is of course my own personal opinion from MY experience and own personal research. I never posted here that you were joking in this thread... That was in another thread....
Anyway. I hope I was Clear on why I disagree with most of the original thread and have provided enough factual basis for disagreeing..If I need to elaborate on something let me know. Maybe I'll reply maybe I wont.
We all have opinions. My problem is I state mine too
I think you have an excellent idea; and are generally wanting people to keep there Cichla alive, which is Awesome! I just think that some of the info is Mis info and Some of it is out dated or incomplete. I highly dis agree with the spreading of mis info.. Or incomplete info. Keep researching and keep moving forward and we will all benefit..
Please ignore my tactlessness. My intentions just like yours are in of forward direction. I am not the authority on Cichla. I do however have a little experience.
I was going to pm you. But felt the info needed added to out here.
nice tongue why dont you add it too bass's info and make it a sticky half yours haf his.
looks go to me.
looks go to me.
