Emergency or oversensitivity?

[abortedsoul]

So, here's my setup. Pics are crap, but I took them with my digital camcorder, so bear with me.

To my amateur eye, this looks like a retic. It was sold to me under the name "teacup" and the dealer at the LFS didn't have the faintest clue what its binomial nomenclature was. Definitely a strike against the LFS, not knowing the scientific name, but the ray looked healthy and was eating. The moment I got it into the tank here it was searching for food, and it has been on a happy diet of blackworms and ghost shrimp ever since.

 

[Miles]

I would use some supplemental chemicals like Seachem's Prime and Stability, to neutralize the ammonia and hopefully re-establish your biofilter...

Your tank was 'pre-cycled' - but it was likely only pre-cycled to the amount of consistent ammonia being released.. once you add stingrays, their urea output usually exceeds the pre-existing established bio-filter.. this will cause a 're-cycle', especially if it happens around the same time that bio-media is rinsed..

Water changes are a double edged sword while cycling.. its great because it keeps the ammonia levels down and keeps the fish out of a toxic environment, but on the same hand it removes the food source for your bio-filter and it takes longer to establish a fully developed colony of nitrifying bacteria..

If it wasn't a ray, I would say just wait it out and don't feed.. It's tough with rays though, they are sensitive to ammonia it seems. Cut way back on feeding to prevent excess ammonia, and use chemicals to try to neutralize the toxicity, while rapidly re-established the biomedia... change water when the ammonia levels look dangerous or your fish are acting strange.

 

[Nic]

I would use some supplemental chemicals like Seachem's Prime and Stability, to neutralize the ammonia and hopefully re-establish your biofilter...

Your tank was 'pre-cycled' - but it was likely only pre-cycled to the amount of consistent ammonia being released.. once you add stingrays, their urea output usually exceeds the pre-existing established bio-filter.. this will cause a 're-cycle', especially if it happens around the same time that bio-media is rinsed..

Water changes are a double edged sword while cycling.. its great because it keeps the ammonia levels down and keeps the fish out of a toxic environment, but on the same hand it removes the food source for your bio-filter and it takes longer to establish a fully developed colony of nitrifying bacteria..

If it wasn't a ray, I would say just wait it out and don't feed.. It's tough with rays though, they are sensitive to ammonia it seems. Cut way back on feeding to prevent excess ammonia, and use chemicals to try to neutralize the toxicity, while rapidly re-established the biomedia... change water when the ammonia levels look dangerous or your fish are acting strange.

agree.... also bio spira works wonders... also dont ever clean your bio media

 

[abortedsoul]

agree.... also bio spira works wonders... also dont ever clean your bio media

I tried Turbostart, which I hear is a lot like Bio Spira. It worked beautifully! Thanks for the advice.

Quite a few people I talk to (and some site recommendations) claim that you should rinse your biomedia gently with aquarium water (removed during a water change) about once every two weeks. Is there some peril in rinsing it?

 

[Nic]

i havent rinsed mine in the 2 years its been running... if im cleaning the sump and i see its getting a good layer of filth on it ill syphon some off... other than that i dont touch it..

 

[abortedsoul]

i havent rinsed mine in the 2 years its been running... if im cleaning the sump and i see its getting a good layer of filth on it ill syphon some off... other than that i dont touch it..

I have my biomedia in the filters and in the large bucket; Do I just crack it open, inspect for silt, clean and return? Should I leave it alone? Shake it? haha, just curious.