JEAE21;1246337; said:
Read the stickys. It is not advisable to release fish after holding them in captivity. You can introduce pathogens not indigenous to the native fishes.
EMERGENCY!
- Thread starter JEAE21
- Start date
Read the stickys. It is not advisable to release fish after holding them in captivity. You can introduce pathogens not indigenous to the native fishes.
alright jeae21-- whenever you post the pics well be able to help you better.. maybe it will be healed/gone by then--let us know
Druu;1247533; said:
Druu he did say " i released them all in my pond " (his bold, not mine). Now whether his pond is inter-connect with the world remains to be seen.
If your going to jump on somebodies case verify your facts, THEN use both feet.
Dr Joe
.
IS THE BLUEGILL IN THE SAME TANK AS YOUR TURTLE?
TANK SIZE/TANKMATES/AMMONIA/NITRITE/NITRATE/WATER CHANGES - HOW MUCH, HOW OFTEN?
TANK SIZE/TANKMATES/AMMONIA/NITRITE/NITRATE/WATER CHANGES - HOW MUCH, HOW OFTEN?
Dr Joe;1247696; said:Druu he did say " i released them all in my pond " (his bold, not mine). Now whether his pond is inter-connect with the world remains to be seen.
If your going to jump on somebodies case verify your facts, THEN use both feet.
Dr Joe
.
Even if it is not interconnected, he can be introducing a foreign pathogen into a native system. It does not take a fish to transmit disease. An osprey or native piscivorous raptor can transmit disease through their feces or by dropping bits of contaminated fish elsewhere.
ummm i think post #17 is just trying to find excuses.
if that was true, then there would be diseases everywhere in the US.
and plus our alligator/crane decoys "should" get fish eating birds away.
wait dr. joe; it could interconnect though..if "the day after tomorrow" happens.lol
if that was true, then there would be diseases everywhere in the US.
and plus our alligator/crane decoys "should" get fish eating birds away.
wait dr. joe; it could interconnect though..if "the day after tomorrow" happens.lol
I have caught many bluegill with this type of "infection" I am unsure exactly what it is. my thinking is that it is an encysted parasite, i recommend treating with salt and heat. If you have not isolated this fish and you have the means to do so, I would do it immediately.
this is what I would do:
raise your temp up about 1 deg per day until you get to 82-84 deg F, and keep it there for about 1 week after the "infection" is gone. I would run an air stone 24/7 to add dissolved 02 to the water until you drop the temp to whatever you normally keep it.
add 1 teaspoon of salt per 5 gals (note, if you have catfish, be-carefull, salt and some cats do not mix)(and thats aquarium salt, not table salt)
I would work in increasingly large water changes every other day until you are doing a 50% wc 2 times a week minimum, while the treatment is going on. (remember to dose for the salt you pulled out)
This is why I would do the above:
The heat may speed up the cycle of the infection, bluegill are tough fish and can stand ranges in temp from the just above freezing to the high 80's, if the temp is lowered and raised slowly like a degree per day it will not stress out the fish. nor harm it to stay at that temp
the salt will stimulate the slime coat of the bluegill, also the salt my hurt the parasite/bacteria or whatever.
Increased water changes (when done properly) will help to remove fish waste, and if you are dealing with a parasite, the heat my cause it to release spores at a faster rate, the water changes will help get rid of them. (ich reacts to heat like this)
the best thing about the above "treatment" is that it can't hurt the fish. I have never had a good result from using medicine from a LFS, period, other people have though, perhaps they can weigh in and help you out.
this is what I would do:
raise your temp up about 1 deg per day until you get to 82-84 deg F, and keep it there for about 1 week after the "infection" is gone. I would run an air stone 24/7 to add dissolved 02 to the water until you drop the temp to whatever you normally keep it.
add 1 teaspoon of salt per 5 gals (note, if you have catfish, be-carefull, salt and some cats do not mix)(and thats aquarium salt, not table salt)
I would work in increasingly large water changes every other day until you are doing a 50% wc 2 times a week minimum, while the treatment is going on. (remember to dose for the salt you pulled out)
This is why I would do the above:
The heat may speed up the cycle of the infection, bluegill are tough fish and can stand ranges in temp from the just above freezing to the high 80's, if the temp is lowered and raised slowly like a degree per day it will not stress out the fish. nor harm it to stay at that temp
the salt will stimulate the slime coat of the bluegill, also the salt my hurt the parasite/bacteria or whatever.
Increased water changes (when done properly) will help to remove fish waste, and if you are dealing with a parasite, the heat my cause it to release spores at a faster rate, the water changes will help get rid of them. (ich reacts to heat like this)
the best thing about the above "treatment" is that it can't hurt the fish. I have never had a good result from using medicine from a LFS, period, other people have though, perhaps they can weigh in and help you out.
